D0VE-A2A: 1970/72 429/460.

Internally balanced: D1VE-6015-AB - A1B - A2B: 1971/73 429 / 1973/78 460 / Some 1979 460.

Externally balanced: D9TE-6015-AB: Some 1979 460 / 1980/97 460.

No 460's in Passenger Cars after 1978.
D3TZ-6028-A Right & D3TZ-6029-A Left .. Engine Supports aka towers/stands/perches / Obsolete

D3TZ-6030-A Right & D3TZ-6031-A Left .. Brackets-these bolt to the block, the rubber insulators bolt to these then to the engine supports / Obsolete

2) D3TZ-6038-A .. R/L Front Insulators / Obsolete

D3TZ-6A023-A .. Rear Engine Support-aka cross member - Same as 1973/76 F100/250 2WD & F350 360/390.

D3TZ-6068-C .. Rear Insulator / Obsolete

460 not available with 4WD & M/T until 1983, F250/350 only.

 

Fresh paint. And a close up if my trans cooler mount( diamond of diamond plate) and my custom lower rad mount. I still have to line it with rubber. Apparently alum radiators don't need to be in contact with any other material or is more prone to corrosion.

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by redneck_davis View Post
Please Help!! Anyone know what year this is so I can order my new one. Heads are D0VE-A2A Block is D1VE-A2B
D0VE-A2A: 1970/72 429/460.

Internally balanced: D1VE-6015-AB - A1B - A2B: 1971/73 429 / 1973/78 460 / Some 1979 460.

Externally balanced: D9TE-6015-AB: Some 1979 460 / 1980/97 460.

No 460's in Passenger Cars after 1978




Thanks mr. Bill

So its a 70-72 block with later heads. Does that tell you whether car or truck engine? An just wondering if the circular emblem thing found on the block and head also was the date stamp and if so how to read it

 

On the issue of solid motor mounts, I personally run the solid 460 swap mounts from trans-dapt and if I had it to do over would have spent the extra $50 or so to get the rubber or poly mounts. You literally feel every vibration coming from the motor as there is no cushion. They work fine and I have had no issues with them, just a lot of vibration.

 

I personally did not notice any extra vibration from the solid engine mounts. The 460 I just put in runs so smooth and purs like a kitten compared to the 351M. Gas mileage doesn't seem like it dropped to much either. I don't have to lean on the 460 to make it move like I did the 351M.

I know a lot of people have done the 460 swap and people say be different and keep the 351M or 400. Almost all the old Fords I've messed with had those engines. That's why I went 460. I was ready for something different.

 

Looks like a good parts list going into a good looking short box.

I just used the factory towers and mounts in mine for the time being.

If you want quality headers you can contact Stans for a very nice set of stainless Tri-Ys.

Not sure why you're so concerned with what vehicle the engine is out of, just tell them it's out of a 72.

You should check the Crank to see that it is a 460 as it's just as possible to be a 429.

 

Autozone changed my Vin to a 460 code and ordered a 78 f150 engine. Said it was no big deal what cast numbers or year the core was. I was thinking it'd be a bigger issue.
Engine comes in Fri. So this weekend it should be going

 

The downfall to the way you just did it is that a 70-72 engine would have much better heads than the 78 engine, the D3VE-A2A heads correct for a 78 have larger combustion chambers (lower CR), a huge "emission hump" in the exhaust port that chokes down flow really bad and would also require machining in order to change the rockers to a better design.

Then again ordering an engine through a parts house like that is a huge craps-shoot on what it will be. I suggest upon delivery you run all the Engineering Numbers on the block, heads and crank to make sure the collective of parts is even correct. It is also an unknown wether yo will get an Internal Balance or External Balance engine.

Hoping for the best outcome for you.

 

Well some progress but not enough. Bound and determined, going to drive 3hrs up to summit racing tomarro and pick up what I need. .
heads on the new one are d3e-a2a. Block is d1 something. Not really that important, a 460 is still a 460..
New cam is in. Summit racing ford blue engine paint ended up more like congrats its a boy blue paint. Whatever. Took it and had a few drops of darker blue added but its still not quite what I was looking for, I will live with it.
I got the wrong style oil pump with my new engine and also need a new oil pickup, and intake bolts, that's why I'm headed to ATL tomarro. Noone has it around here and I want it running this weekend. Took a day off work today and its my birthday, this thing running is going to be my present.

 

 

Looking good.

Remember, there's never "too much" assembly lube when it comes to the cam&lifters, doesn't hurt to put it on everything else. Also add a Zinc additive to the oil, not sure if you're using the fancy Break-In Oil or not but the Zinc is a Minimum either way. In order to have a Pre-Lube tool I tore an extra Distributor apart and used it's shaft, was a lot cheaper than the aftermarket shaft.

 

I spent the money and went with the aftermarket priming shaft, Comp cam break in oil, and there's a puddle under the engine from the assembly lube dripping out . . headed to summit now for the oil pump

 

I primed mine up with a extension and a socket, worked like a charm. What cam did you go with? Mine is still stock. I was gonna go with some sort of torque cam in the future.

 

Engines is the truck. Ready to fire up. But stalled progress due to elec problems. Posted a thread about this. Someone help please...

 

Threads on electrical problems are pretty common, care to narrow it down any?