Ok on the NGS XL with the Ford (Black card) Diagnostic Data Links On Board Diagnostics II, Version 17.2 in it, I ran the following test with the SPOUT jumper INSTALLED:


KOEO/OUTPUT CYC SELF TEST

FAST KOEO CODES: 111 111 10 111 111

OUTPUT CYC TEST: On this test it seems to be hanging and won't complete the test... but when I push "STOP" it says: SYS PASS

In the DTC LIBRARY on the NGS it says:

DTC: 10 MOD: PCM
SEPARATOR CODE

DTC: 111 MOD: PCM
SYS PASS

Hmmm... I have read about the SPOUT grounding out. I will visually inspect it. How do I test for ground? Can I disconnect the battery and put a self-powered test light in one of the two female terminals of the SPOUT and the other end of the test light clamped to ground and see if I get a light? Or is there some friggin' capacitor in the circuit which I am going to fry? I there a better way to test for SPOUT ground?

So, I ran on the NGS:

KOEO WIGGLE SELF TEST

and I wiggled the SPOUT and the wires on the SPOUT where they go into the main harness and the wires which go into the EEC (PCM) plug and I got no DTCs.

 

rla2005: FYI:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...uestion-5.html

Pictures of the inside of my EEC-IV are on page 4.

 

If the SPOUT was grounded you would get a code for it. You have a bad computer.

 

rla2005: Ok, thank you. I didn't know if a grounded SPOUT would throw a DTC. Shifting over to here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...uestion-5.html

 

Yes it will.

 

<p>Title changed per OP's request.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

 

Thanks Krewat! In the Ford diagnostic manual in the troubleshooting tree, it refers to the condition as a "crank no start" condition. So in the future it may be easier to find with the title changed.

 

rla2005 et al: Rec'd the replacement computer last night. Installed it. Put the SPOUT jumper back in. Had the same crank no start condition again. With cycling the key it started. Could not get it started this morning - again crank no start.


Could it be something other than the computer? Again starts readily with the SPOUT jumper removed...

 

Well, that's not good. It would not be the first time someone received a DOA "rebuilt" computer. Try running the codes again, see if you get a grounded SPOUT code. Regardless if you do or not I would check for a short to ground on the SPOUT wire.

If you do read a short unplug the SPOUT then remeasure on either side of the SPOUT connector to see which side is shorted.

 

rla2005: While occasionally there might be a bright pebble in there, I am pretty much dumb as a box of rocks.

I am pondering how I would test the SPOUT recepticale for gound. Would I put a self-powered test light between ground and one and then the other terminal in the SPOUT recepticale? Would I use a non-powered test light? Would I use a multi-meter and if so how? Must I disconnect the battery before the test?

I am fully aware that this is basic stuff I am asking, but if it weren't for stupid questions, I would have no questions at all...

Your continued assistance would be greatly appreciated.

 

Sorry for the delay to answer, it's been a hectic week. To test the shorted SPOUT theory you should be able to pull the SPOUT then use a DVM to measure each side of the plug with reference to ground. I would suspect you should see in the 10k ohm range. Since the truck has spark with the SPOUT out I would suspect the short, if there is one, to be on the computer (PCM) side of the plug.

One of the diagnostics I found in the Ford service manual stated you should have a 3 to 8.5 V AC signal at the SPOUT with the engine running. That would be another way to verify the PCM is sending out a signal. Never tried it myself.....

 

Thanks rla2005! Will check today and report back.

 

rla2005: Test 10/04/2015 with the SPOUT jumper removed:
DVM Blue Sea 8110 Clamp Meter (with probes) True RMS

With engine off:

Between to the two SPOUT receptacles = 10.96 ohms

From orange wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = 10.22 - 10.23 ohms
From red wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = 7.12 ohms steady
V AC signal between the two SPOUT receptacles = 0.00 VAC
V DC signal between the two SPOUT receptacles = 0.00 VDC

V AC signal from orange wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = 0.00 VAC
V DC signal from orange wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = 0.00 VDC

V AC signal from red wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = 0.00 VAC
V DC signal from red wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = 0.00 VDC

With engine running:
Between to the two SPOUT receptacles = 0.00 ohms (but engine speeds up slightly)

From orange wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = kills engine
From red wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = 0.00 ohms

V AC signal between to the two SPOUT receptacles = 5.73 - 5.75 VAC
V DC signal between to the two SPOUT receptacles = 5.73 - 5.75 VDC

V AC signal from orange wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = 5.6 - 5.7 VDC
V DC signal from orange wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = 5.2 - 5.8 VDC

V AC signal from red wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = 11.3 - 11.5 VAC
V DC signal from red wire SPOUT receptacle to ground = 4.6 - 4.7 VDC

KOEO slow test with SPOUT jumper removed = PASSED
KOEO slow test with SPOUT jumper installed = PASSED

KOER timing test with SPOUT jumper installed = PASSED
SPOUT fixed at 20 degrees + BASE

So it started with the SPOUT jumper in!?!?!! What the heck happened? Well I cleaned the SPOUT receptacles with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner to get a good connection for the DVM. Could that have been it all along? Or did wiggling the SPOUT connector fix a short? Once it started with the SPOUT jumper in I really cleaned the receptacles well again with CRC electronic contact cleaner using micro Q-Tips and then hit it with a spray of DeoxIT Gold G5 and then cleaned the SPOUT jumper itself with CRC and removed some white powder and then hit it with G5. I am putting in my old computer and testing for start with with SPOUT jumper in and will post.

Could this be one of those moments:


Mechanics look at the component. Electricians go to the wiring.

 

rla2005: OK, it is one of those moments:

Mechanics look to the component. Electricians look at the wiring.

I can't believe I don't take my own (learned from Petrock on the Dodge Dakota forum) advise.

Of course it starts with the SPOUT jumper in with the old computer in!!!!

And I guess my hack job of replacing the four cylindrical capacitors on the computer board was passable.

(I hope they take this remanufactured computer back and credit me my $309...)

 

Glad to see you got it going. Whatever was going on appears to be exorcised for the time being.