Ford Racing or Summit brand Trac Loc?
#16
I got the pumpkin removed, it's a standard 28 spline and all the bearings are in real good shape. Looks like it was rebuilt at some point. Is there a trick for getting the copper washers off? That took the most time getting the pumpkin out.
Went ahead and ordered that Yukon Trac Loc since it was the last one available at that price. That ebay seller also has a complete 9" with the Trac loc all new for just over $800. I'm spending a bit more than that having a local shop rebuild mine, but living in a small town I think it's important to spend some of my money locally.
Two tyre fryer coming soon
Went ahead and ordered that Yukon Trac Loc since it was the last one available at that price. That ebay seller also has a complete 9" with the Trac loc all new for just over $800. I'm spending a bit more than that having a local shop rebuild mine, but living in a small town I think it's important to spend some of my money locally.
Two tyre fryer coming soon
#17
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: On the Edge of the Desert
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Yes, a spool locks both axle shafts together 100% of the time. Absolutely no differentiating or slipping. Most of the time, they are used only in racing applications, and on some off road vehicles. They are very aggressive on the street because you will always be dragging the tires around corners.
#18
#19
That's weird. The words complete 9 inch were highlighted and when clicked took me to ebay listings which I assumed were the seller you were referencing. Anyways, you are right, full spool is not for the street.
#20
Gear lube will eventually seep out around them. You can use 3/8" copper washers for brake banjo bolts available at your local auto Parts store or hardware store.
#21
Thanks for the tip on using the brake banjo washers...I thought the overhaul kit would come with new washers.
What's the best brand of oil and friction modifier to use with this limited slip? I was planning on using Royal Purple synthetic, but I called the seller and they said not to use synthetic.
What's the best brand of oil and friction modifier to use with this limited slip? I was planning on using Royal Purple synthetic, but I called the seller and they said not to use synthetic.
#23
Join Date: Jul 2011
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Oil is one of those things that is mostly opinion. I'm of the opinion that I don't need to run high dollar oil in low dollar equipment. (And the low dollar oil does just as good in that situation)
Now if I had a tight tolerance, high performance race car, you can bet I would run Castrol GTX in it. (If it's good enough for the funny cars, it's good enough for me)
Now if I had a tight tolerance, high performance race car, you can bet I would run Castrol GTX in it. (If it's good enough for the funny cars, it's good enough for me)
#24
I put 80W-90 GL-5 (non-synthetic) gear oil in my truck's rear end with the Ford Traction-Lok (clutch type) differential and 3.50 gears. I also put 4oz of Motorcraft XL-3 friction modifier in.
My stock C7AW-E 28-spline, 3.50 ratio, single track differential, 9-inch 3rd member on the left. Heavy duty Ford Nodular iron 9-inch 3rd member on the right.
You'll need (3) bottles of gear oil and the friction modifier. Pour the friction modifier in first. It will take all of the first two bottles of gear oil and most of the 3rd bottle to fill the rear end.
Ford Daytona 9-inch N-case, 4-pinion, 31-spline, Traction-Lok differential, 3.50 ratio 3rd member in place of my old C7AW-E 3rd member.
My stock C7AW-E 28-spline, 3.50 ratio, single track differential, 9-inch 3rd member on the left. Heavy duty Ford Nodular iron 9-inch 3rd member on the right.
You'll need (3) bottles of gear oil and the friction modifier. Pour the friction modifier in first. It will take all of the first two bottles of gear oil and most of the 3rd bottle to fill the rear end.
Ford Daytona 9-inch N-case, 4-pinion, 31-spline, Traction-Lok differential, 3.50 ratio 3rd member in place of my old C7AW-E 3rd member.
#26
The tag on the N-case is bogus --I just transferred it over from my C7AW-E single track 3.50 ratio 3rd member. The only thing on the tag that's correct is the ratio.
The 3rd member just looks more 'complete' with it on there.
#27
Thanks for the oil recommendations...oil is a slippery subject. The different brands all use different additive packages and that's what makes the most difference. I'll check to see what's available locally.
Adding a tag does seem like a good idea. If I make one I don't think I'll put it in code, just stamp out Yukon LS 4.11 and a date. Then there's no need to look up anything.
Adding a tag does seem like a good idea. If I make one I don't think I'll put it in code, just stamp out Yukon LS 4.11 and a date. Then there's no need to look up anything.
#28
I received the Yukon Trac Loc and got it over to the shop.
I should have the differential back sometime this week but I don't have time to put it in until the following weekend. This weekend is full because my woman is competing in a snow shoe race...LOL...not sure what anyone does that.
The box says "Assembled in the USA" and the differential is stamped USA...does that mean it is MADE in the USA? Or just that some of the parts are and that it's built here?
#29
I received the Yukon Trac Loc and got it over to the shop.
I should have the differential back sometime this week but I don't have time to put it in until the following weekend. This weekend is full because my woman is competing in a snow shoe race...LOL...not sure what anyone does that.
The box says "Assembled in the USA" and the differential is stamped USA...does that mean it is MADE in the USA? Or just that some of the parts are and that it's built here?
#30