1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

need some advice 64 f100 SWB

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Old 02-08-2015, 02:24 PM
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need some advice 64 f100 SWB

I just bought a 1964 f100 shortbed. I paid way too much money for it and trusted a guy of craigslist. Make a long story short he said motor was good to go, and i did a compression test (after finding it not running smooth) and number one cylinder has no compression. one of the valve guides was so wallowed out it had no compression. the local machine shop says he doesnt even have the tooling to fix. ( my fault should of checked before bought)

its a ford 352 w/C6 3 sp auto (8.8 rear end 3.73grs). I can't decide whether to fix the current motor which isn't original or put a rebuild fe motor like 390.

My ultimate goal would be to have a daily driver that might hit highway speeds some times. that would most likely require a gear vendors OVDR which im not gonna fork 3k for.

i dont want to spend more than 2k to get this thing running daily.

hope i gave enough info.
 
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 52runner
I just bought a 1964 f100 shortbed. I paid way too much money for it and trusted a guy of craigslist. Make a long story short he said motor was good to go, and i did a compression test (after finding it not running smooth) and number one cylinder has no compression. one of the valve guides was so wallowed out it had no compression. the local machine shop says he doesnt even have the tooling to fix. ( my fault should of checked before bought)

its a ford 352 w/C6 3 sp auto (8.8 rear end 3.73grs). I can't decide whether to fix the current motor which isn't original or put a rebuild fe motor like 390.

My ultimate goal would be to have a daily driver that might hit highway speeds some times. that would most likely require a gear vendors OVDR which im not gonna fork 3k for.

i dont want to spend more than 2k to get this thing running daily.

hope i gave enough info.
If you're going to use for a daily driver spending no more than 2K, I would toss the 352 & C6, replace it with a 5.0/AOD or 351W/AOD. They're affordable, dependable and will get better mpgs than the FE plus you'll get the overdrive for highway driving.
 
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:36 AM
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I agree. Those 3.73s will love a AOD.
 
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:24 AM
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I found a 89 Mercury mark VII. it's has HO motor and AOD. this seem like a good donor? on 92,xxx on motor and said the trans has been rebuilt.

oh yah 1350 is asking
good deal???
 
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Old 02-09-2015, 04:27 PM
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Going form efi to carb will run you $300-800, depending on if you can reuse your current carb, plus engine mounts, exhaust, and all the other nickel and dime things that push the budget way over the top.


Since all you want is the engine/AOD, see if he will let you run a compression test.
 
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Old 02-09-2015, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadowrider123
Going form efi to carb will run you $300-800, depending on if you can reuse your current carb, plus engine mounts, exhaust, and all the other nickel and dime things that push the budget way over the top.


Since all you want is the engine/AOD, see if he will let you run a compression test.
if he does and it checks out is it a good deal ? cant i just run the motor as efi?
 
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Old 02-09-2015, 06:07 PM
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I am going to go out on a limb and suggest a different route.

Since you know the guy misled you on the current engine, it seems likely that there are other nasty gremlins waiting to jump out and say boo.

Do you really want to spend even that much money on it to get EFI and all just to find out there are other serious problems? Not to mention all the time, the work and frustration you will put into it to get the AOD and EFI to work right?

Therefore, I suggest you step back from the neato 5.0, AOD and EFI ideas - which I agree with by the way - and replace the tired 352 with a used 360 or a 390. Common in trucks '68 - '76, and as I think I understand it, are often available in California.

It will not give you good mileage, but it will do this:
1. Easy bolt in replacement solution. No fighting any modifications.
2. Daily driver reliable.
3. Allows you to confirm whether the truck is worthy of the desired upgrades.
4. Gives you time to find the parts and plan how you will do the upgrades.
5. Costs a LOT less - at least initially, and will cost a lot less overall if you decide the truck has too many other problems.

Again, I am NOT against the recommendations of a 5.0, AOD and EFI - but if the truck has too many other problems, and if you have to dump the truck at least you will have spent the least amount of money to get it running, and will not have wasted more money fiddling with the other- and with a replacement FE engine it will be a running truck, easier to sell.

Just my opinion, and I do wish you the best of luck.
 
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Old 02-09-2015, 06:19 PM
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find a good used FE, put it in, get on down the road. i had 3.73's in a truck with no overdrive, and it's not really all that bad. get tall tires and you'll get 60 mph without issues.
 
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Old 02-09-2015, 06:53 PM
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The other issues are Calf emissions and the price of Calf gas.


Will the 302/AOD cause you problems with passing emissions?


If gas hits $4 a gallon again you will be glad to have the AOD. Here in Middle Georgia gas has been as low as $1.74 for regular, but seems to stay around $1.90 most of the time.


The best source of info for a 302/AOD swap is the vintage Mustang boards. Those guys have it down to the nuts and bolts as far as efi harnesses, front covers, fuel pumps, a/c and ps delete, and all the other bits you need to address in this type swap.
 
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:27 PM
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The '89 Mark 7 5.0HO is the same engine as the Mustang 5.0HO, rated at 225hp. I put the fuel injected 5.0HO/AOD from a 92 Mustang in my '66 after ditching the 352/cruiseomatic. I love it! If you want to stay with the fuel injection (which I personally recommend) Ford Racing makes a plug & play harness to adapt easily to your truck wiring. The other issue is figuring out which way to go with the fuel supply. Anyway here's my build thread. I made a few mistakes along the way but there's some good info in there if you wanna check it out. As for the price on the Lincoln, I assume that's for the whole car, right? If so, maybe offer a couple hundred less just because. You can always part out the rest after you get what you need. That should recoup much of your investment. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-66-f100.html
 
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:09 PM
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"It will not give you good mileage, but it will do this:
1. Easy bolt in replacement solution. No fighting any modifications.
2. Daily driver reliable.
3. Allows you to confirm whether the truck is worthy of the desired upgrades.
4. Gives you time to find the parts and plan how you will do the upgrades.
5. Costs a LOT less - at least initially, and will cost a lot less overall if you decide the truck has too many other problems. "

Even though I'm a big fan of the 5.0/AOD swap with EFI, Banjopicker66's thoughts make tons of sense depending on your longer range plans for the truck. It will be the fastest, easiest and probably cheapest way to get it back on the road. He's right about the gas mileage on the FE. My 352 usually got 8-10mpg with headers, 4V carb, Pertronix ignition. When it started using oil on top of the poor gas mileage, I decided to make a change.

Post up some pics and tell us more about your plans for the truck and I'm sure we can throw in some more ideas to spend YOUR money!!
 
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 52runner
I found a 89 Lincoln Continental Mark VII. it has HO motor and A0D.
You were "laid away" once, don't get laid away again.

IF it's a Mark VII LSC .. it has the Mustang 302 HO engine. If it's not an LSC, it has a plain 'ol 302 EFI.

1961/64 F100 has leaf spring front suspension, only V8 was the 292, has the dizzy behind the carb.

1965/66 F100 2WD has coil spring front suspension, 352 only V8, dizzy is in front of the carb.

292 mounts completely different than the 352. C6 (17 trans pan bolt holes) was introduced in 1968 F100/350 360/390.

8.8 introduced in 1983 F100/150, has an inspection cover. The original 1964 rear axle was either a Ford 9" (no inspection cover) or a Dana 44 or 60.2, both have an inspection cover.

AOD was the worst turd of an A/T foisted on mankind by FoMoCo, it's very expensive to fix.

Do NOT believe a single word that private sellers claim, as they lie just like used/new car dealers, lawyers, politicians and TV evangelists.

Do NOT believe the miles shown on the odometer, as it reads to 99999.9 then returns to ZERO!
 
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:08 PM
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thanks you all I think I'm gonna just look for a 390 and rebuild it.

can anyone segest a good rebuild kit for the 390. good american made parts?

yah the truck is not original, I has disk brakes, a explorer or crown vic rear axel, the 352 with c6 yea not original also.

I want to just make it a reliable truck with a good stance . maybe even put my wife and daughter in it once I feel it's safe.

I have the 2005 CV front clip already just need to figure out what to do with rear suspension. four link would be nice . just have a lot of welding to practice before trusting it on my vehicle.

again thank all of u for ur input ! my wife is so happy I didn't buy that Lincoln !!
 
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:17 PM
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You can bore the 352 (4.00" bore) to 390 standard (4.05" bore), then install the 390's crank, rods and pistons.

And be aware that on sale day, 352's & 360's magically become 390's!
 
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:04 AM
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The only way to ID a 390 is to measure the stroke.


It seems like their are more 390s for sale than Ford ever made.
 


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