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I don't mean to hijack this thread but I have a quick question.
I just took ownership of a 1979 F-100 Custom Short bed. I have a 302 engine and an 88 AOD transmission for it as well. When it was delivered the front clip was taken off in pieces: both fenders, grill, radiator core support, and it doesn't have a hood. I was handed a bucket of bolts that are all marred and twisted that was used to hold everything together.
Where can I find a list of the proper hardware needed to reassemble the front clip? Bolts, brackets, clips, etc. It needs front frame work and I won't be able to get to it until the fall at the earliest. So I would like to reassemble the front clip and get a good car cover to put over it for the time being.
Where can I find a list of the proper hardware needed to reassemble the front clip? Bolts, brackets, clips, etc. It needs front frame work and I won't be able to get to it until the fall at the earliest. So I would like to reassemble the front clip and get a good car cover to put over it for the time being.
I didn't disassemble mine, so not sure on an exact list, but I can take a few pictures of the bolts/fasteners as-assembled if that helps.
Originally Posted by rustED_
Nice work on the steering wheel, it looks really good, the engine compartment turned out super nice too!
Thanks!
As for the hammered metal finish, the alternator and the PS pump bracket (which were bare aluminum) definitely have the hammered look. The inner fenders (which were painted-over galvanized steel) just seem to have the underlying texture/roughness of the surface that was there that I didn't sand down first; maybe if I'd sanded them smoother, I'd notice more of a hammered look, but either way, I'm happy with it - looks nice and clean now.
As for the hammered metal finish, the alternator and the PS pump bracket (which were bare aluminum) definitely have the hammered look. The inner fenders (which were painted-over galvanized steel) just seem to have the underlying texture/roughness of the surface that was there that I didn't sand down first; maybe if I'd sanded them smoother, I'd notice more of a hammered look, but either way, I'm happy with it - looks nice and clean now.
You responded quickly, lol, I must have still been editing my post, ha, ha.
That must be the difference. I had mixed results as well, when I rebuilt the front axel in my 4runner I used it on the steering knuckles and it had a nice hammered look. Then I used the remainder of the same can of paint on another project, and it just had a smooth finish. I'm pretty sure I primered both projects before hand, can't remember for sure, but that could have been the difference. Regardless, your inner fenders turned out really good, I'll probably do the same on mine when the time comes.
You responded quickly, lol, I must have still been editing my post, ha, ha.
That must be the difference. I had mixed results as well, when I rebuilt the front axel in my 4runner I used it on the steering knuckles and it had a nice hammered look. Then I used the remainder of the same can of paint on another project, and it just had a smooth finish. I'm pretty sure I primered both projects before hand, can't remember for sure, but that could have been the difference. Regardless, your inner fenders turned out really good, I'll probably do the same on mine when the time comes.
Just to add my $.02. My inner fenders were pretty grubby, so over the span of a few days, as I had time I scrubbed my inner fenders with soapy water (dawn dish soap) and a red 3m scuff pad. I rinsed them well and shot them with silver hammerite, IMO they came out great but the before was so bad it was hard not to have an improvement Just throwing it out as an option
Yeah, that sounds like it would work well. I went back and looked today and you can see the hammered effect on the smooth areas; it's just that there's a lot of surface roughness that masks it. *shrug* I'm OK with it.
I took WD-40 & aluminum foil to the headliner trim this evening - made a huge difference. The rust pitting is still there, but much diminished and less visible. Wadded-up aluminum foil acts as a scrubber that's strong enough to get off the rust, but non-scratch on the chrome surface. Here are before/after shots:
I haven't had a chance to take photos of the bolts/fasteners on the front clip yet - haven't forgotten though. Just got interrupted for dinner, then it got dark.
I did get a pic of my dash lights after dark tonight though - replaced the original bulbs with an LED setup while I had everything apart:
Nicely done, the dash looks great. Mine needs attention, I think the printed part needs to be replaced, also kind of kicking around aftermarket gauges. Still trying to figure out how I'll sneak that one past my warden. lol
Thanks! Functionally, mine was all working already - just needed some aesthetic improvement. A new plastic lens on the instrument cluster that's actually transparent rather than semi-opaque yellow made a huge difference, and I repainted the needles while I was at it. I used this kit for the LED lighting (also ordered a couple extra warm white LEDs for the shift indicator, heater controls and lights/washer indicator - last is a bayonet base).
Being LEDs, they are, of course, sensitive to polarity: the positive side of each is marked, and the gauge cluster kit comes with nice diagrams of which way to install them.
The dash turned out well enough, I'm thinking of getting LED bulbs from them to replace the 1156/7 bulbs at the brake light & reverse light positions.
Hmm ... not easily enough to make it worthwhile. With the positioning of the actuators for the air temperature doors, I couldn't really shorten them between there and the end, which would mean shortening them between the actuators and the flange that attaches to the air cleaner. There would be more fabrication involved than I'm interested in trying to take on.
I think what I can do without much trouble is bend the flanges a bit so the snorkels sit higher - get them to stick out straighter rather than drooping as far.
Not a bad idea ... I don't think I need to resort to it, but a filter spacer could work in a pinch. I think I'll do fine just modifying the angle of the snorkel a bit.
Where can I find a list of the proper hardware needed to reassemble the front clip? Bolts, brackets, clips, etc. It needs front frame work and I won't be able to get to it until the fall at the earliest. So I would like to reassemble the front clip and get a good car cover to put over it for the time being.
Any ideas?
I don't have a list, but here are some pictures of the bolts I can see:
Inner fender to firewall
Outer to inner fender
Outer to inner fender
Outer/inner fender to core support
Hood hinge to inner fender
Hood hinge to hood
Inner fender to core support (back side)
Little bolts hold on the grill inserts
Hood hinge to inner fender (back side)
Inner fender to core support
Inner fender to core support
Inner fender to firewall
Core support to frame
Core support to frame bushing
Outer fender to cab (bottom)
Outer fender to cab (top) - this one's not really visible, but there's a bolt going in from the back side towards the outer fender that you have to reach around the door to get to.
My seat cover was ripped and the foam was showing ... I'll eventually re-upholster it and put in new carpet, etc. in the interior, but in the meantime, before i spend the money on that, I decided to get a $30 seat cover to keep the foam from getting torn up or deteriorating in the sun. Finished installing it right around sunset:
05-27-2015, 06:45 AM
Just throwing it out as an option
