Replacement Wheel Hub "unit bearing" Advice Needed
#1
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Asheville-where weird is
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Replacement Wheel Hub "unit bearing" Advice Needed
Which brand/make of "wheel" hubs do you suggest based upon experience: OEM, Rayloc (NAPA), or Timkin? Or something entirely different...
Guidance is definitely needed...and will be greatly appreciated.
Edited: added "wheel"
Last edited by jhl3; 02-07-2015 at 01:50 PM. Reason: specificity
#2
Many people are going to suggest what they like; however, what someone else likes may not be right for you. It all depends if you want to keep the original function of the hubs or are you willing to change out the OEM style and go with a manual locking hub (Warn, Mile Marker) style. The other issue you need to consider is budget. While going with factory OEM hubs may be what you want, they are about the most expensive option out there. I replaced the factory hubs with Warn Premiums many years ago and have used these same style of hubs on other trucks and never had an issue. Some like them, some don't and go with Mile Marker or similar style.
#4
I am assuming you are talking about the entire wheel hub assembly, bearings and all, and not the locking hub.
I don't have really any experience with different manufacturers, but a couple weeks ago I put in an assembly from Napa, seemed to be of just fine quality, I wouldn't hesitate to put one on either mine or my father's truck.
That's about all I know on the subject,
Baatzy
I don't have really any experience with different manufacturers, but a couple weeks ago I put in an assembly from Napa, seemed to be of just fine quality, I wouldn't hesitate to put one on either mine or my father's truck.
That's about all I know on the subject,
Baatzy
#7
Front "unit bearing" is a good descriptor to what you are looking for.
I made 436,000 miles on my factory front unit bearings. I just replaced one about 3000 miles ago with a NAPA unit. I caught it before it made noise but it had plenty of play in it. At the time of my discovery NAPA was the only thing open. It looks like a good part but time will tell. If it is short lived OEM will replace it.
I made 436,000 miles on my factory front unit bearings. I just replaced one about 3000 miles ago with a NAPA unit. I caught it before it made noise but it had plenty of play in it. At the time of my discovery NAPA was the only thing open. It looks like a good part but time will tell. If it is short lived OEM will replace it.
Trending Topics
#8
Front "unit bearing" is a good descriptor to what you are looking for.
I made 436,000 miles on my factory front unit bearings. I just replaced one about 3000 miles ago with a NAPA unit. I caught it before it made noise but it had plenty of play in it. At the time of my discovery NAPA was the only thing open. It looks like a good part but time will tell. If it is short lived OEM will replace it.
I made 436,000 miles on my factory front unit bearings. I just replaced one about 3000 miles ago with a NAPA unit. I caught it before it made noise but it had plenty of play in it. At the time of my discovery NAPA was the only thing open. It looks like a good part but time will tell. If it is short lived OEM will replace it.
#10
If your talking about your Early99 truck you can't get the early hubs so you will be buying the late model style and need a rotor as well. I had one done on mine a while back because I was leaving on vacation and didn't have time. I have yet to change the other side to match. Just out of curiosity what side is yours? Mine was the passenger side. Went for tires and the thing moved around like it should of fell off. Tire ware was still flat and level also.
#11
I just replaced mine two weeks ago. I ordered them from Amazon. They were about $180 each. One was a timkin and one was moog (not that I ordered them that way). The needle bearing in the timkin would not spin so I replaced it.
This is what the pass side looked like...
There was a lot of movement from that one and you can see where it was coming apart. I had no play in the drivers side but the ball joints were bad so I figured might as well replace it all.
This is what the pass side looked like...
There was a lot of movement from that one and you can see where it was coming apart. I had no play in the drivers side but the ball joints were bad so I figured might as well replace it all.
#12
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Oakhust NJ Jersey Shore
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
There is no way you can tell what your buying, unless you go right to ford, and there price is cheaper or close to the same you will get with any other brand. Plus is comes with a new ABS sensor and o-rings. With all the reboxing going on behind the seens your buying a box, to many places are reboxing to keep up with Auto Zones, and O'rieley's, Pep boys since all these companies came on to the seen, the mom and pop's cant keep up with the prices of rock auto etc. I only use dealer parts on our entire fleet. the box says timken but you got a BBC, yea made in china like the rest of them, out of recycled metal and have no standards, there is no way in knowing what you got they can even forge names in the parts, so I will stick with motorcraft.
#13
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Asheville-where weird is
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
If your talking about your Early99 truck you can't get the early hubs so you will be buying the late model style and need a rotor as well. I had one done on mine a while back because I was leaving on vacation and didn't have time. I have yet to change the other side to match. Just out of curiosity what side is yours? Mine was the passenger side. Went for tires and the thing moved around like it should of fell off. Tire ware was still flat and level also.
Passenger side on this one too!
My tire wear is even also...I noticed that it was getting a little squirrely on the straights so I pulled the tire and brakes and you know the rest...
#14
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Asheville-where weird is
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
There is no way you can tell what your buying, unless you go right to ford, and there price is cheaper or close to the same you will get with any other brand. Plus is comes with a new ABS sensor and o-rings. With all the reboxing going on behind the seens your buying a box, to many places are reboxing to keep up with Auto Zones, and O'rieley's, Pep boys since all these companies came on to the seen, the mom and pop's cant keep up with the prices of rock auto etc. I only use dealer parts on our entire fleet. the box says timken but you got a BBC, yea made in china like the rest of them, out of recycled metal and have no standards, there is no way in knowing what you got they can even forge names in the parts, so I will stick with motorcraft.
Also, my rotors, current e99, are approx. 13" diameter x 3 3/4" tall. I've looked online and there appear to be three different sizes. D 13"x H 3 3/4", D 13" x H 3.91, and D 14 1/2" x H 3.66. The new hub unit bearing assy (HUBA) has a different offset than the e99, hence the height difference. Is this accounted for in the HUBA or is there a different bracket that bolts to the HUBA that holds the calipers and pads?
I am committed to getting rid of this part of the e99 fiasco....which equals a pain in the...once and for all.
#15
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Oakhust NJ Jersey Shore
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Well the brakes bolt to the knuckle so I dont think there is a way to modify that, you have to stick with the 13 diameter, 3.75-3.91 the caliper will push in far enough for that one, the last one forget it, it wont come close to fitting. and they cant build to much into the hub because you have the 8 on 170mm lug pattern. You have to find out what the offset is between the new ones and the early ones, than you know what rotor to use, you have to stick with the same diameter. height is a differant story.