1800-3000 just want a stock engine.

 

The lifters were making some noise at first from dirt but that cleared out before the pushrod bent.

 

Your problem is a dry, tight guide.

 

Address the heads, as instig8r pointed out, and get new pushrods.
Good luck.

 

Really?

"Shortly after installing this used engine."

 

2x what Bobby says & Bad valve guilds will cause you to have a bent push rod
Re build the heads with harden exh. seats. Or try to find a pair of 72-76 360/390 heads with a cast #D2TZ-D4TZ by the center spark plugs you'll find the numbers.
Orich

 

Personally i would rebuild the motor myself if youre going stock you can get a good re-ring kit for less than $300 and spend 2-300 at a machine shop for cam bearings hot tank hardened valve seats etc. if youve never done one before dont be afraid its a lot easier than you might think just find a good machine shop and pick up a book or two itll be a good learning experience and you can say you did it yourself just my opinion

 

Ha.. heads rebuilt with harden exh seat $600-800 depending where you live.
And about $1800 is like the ball park pieces, It may need the cranks turned an cylinders bored.

One never really knows until you pull it down have it inspected ..
Orich

 

HA! When was the last time you had an engine done? Just a valve job with hardened seats is 6-700. That's what I was quoted from a couple different shops.

 

Did the pushrod bend when you started the engine cold? Old gas is the key here. When you burn old gas and shut the engine off, a deposit forms on valve stems essentially gluing the stems to the guides with the result of bending one or more pushrods on cold startup. I bent 5 of them on my '68 F250, surprised the heck out of me as the truck had been running great when I shut it off the night before, even with 10 year old gas in the aux. tank which I had diluted some with fresh gas and was trying to burn off. Did some research and found out about the perils of running old gas. From then on I started and stopped the engine on fresh gas from the main tank and only switched to the aux. tank to burn up the old nasty stuff when I had a little distance to drive, being sure to switch back to the main tank at least a miles from my house, till I finally got rid of all the old crap.

Just replace the bent pushrod and if you only have a single tank, drain it and refill with fresh gas, or carry a gas can of fresh gas with you and drive it till you run out and then add the fresh stuff.

 

It was running a while that day while getting an exhaust manifold sealed up. I appreciate all the tips for burning out old gas while protecting the engine.

 

I haven't rebuilt an engine before, but it is time I get an FE rebuild manual.

 

Not a shill just looking for advice: spent about $900 on a used engine with good compression from a junkyard and getting my old one pulled and this one installed, and want to make a better choice moving forward. Actually had a friend who was a mechanic and said a crate engine could be a good option. I appreciate feedback on the negatives of crate engines also.

 

A 40 yr old motor where would the best place to buy a crate motor come from?

And how much one would cost ? Maybe just down the block at a loco shop.

One key word is how long is the warrantee will last.

Then longer the time the better of engine you'll get.

But many things you'll have to do. One you'll have to have and show proof for them to honor the say 1,2, or 3 yrs warranty is have a new or rebuilt radiator, 2.A New water pump, 3. Have a new thermostat & with all new hoses.
And 4 new belts
Just these things could cost $300

Orich

 

Last week fyi you just have to know the right people