Working on a 2004 ford f150 fx4 crewcab 5.4L for a friend. They went to Firestone for service and they told them the truck wasn't worth fixing. Estimate was 6,000.00. So I am trying help her out a little with labor. The truck runs horrible. Shakes sputters and coughs. I read the codes with my scanner and it had one code PO358. I just find it hard to believe that as bad as it runs that's the only issue. I barely can push itself. LOL It also has abs light on and break light on.
Any help getting me thru this would be greatly appreciated. Im 52 years old and am in no way a mechanic but I have worked on cars my whole life.
I will be doing the following work but don't know what order. I was gonna do the suspension first until I drove it. LOL
Both sides:
upper control arms
lower ball joint
quick struts
Calipers rotors and pads
Also;
steering rack
engine oil change
belt tensioner and belt
coolant flush
transmission pan / drop filter replacement
airfilter
8 spark plugs (have broken plug removal tool been reading up last two days)
Then take it to get an alignment and four new tires.
Its a beautiful manly looking truck. I may have stuck my foot in my mouth on this one. I drive a 2006 Expedition 5.4 but all Ive done is the plugs and maintenance (brakes and tranny filter. and she has never given me any trouble. Shes a wonderful vehicle.

 

Suspension work is amazingly easy on these trucks. I would solve the P0358 before doing anything else. Check the wiring and connector to #8 coil first thing. When doing spark plugs I always recommend replacing the coil boots as well. For the ABS/Brake light check the fluid level and if the level sensor is floating or stuck down in the bottom of the master cylinder.

Is the steering rack leaking at the outer seals? How about the calipers and struts? Issues or just replacing?

 

Hello thanks for the reply.
Yes the rack is leaking badly at the outer seal. One side has a sticking caliper so it pulls violently and the drivers side strut spring is broken. I would like to replace coil boots too. Its turning into a money pit for her and Im trying to save her money. Ordered all parts on line to save her money. I know theres a beautiful truck for her at the end of the road but I don't know if she can afford to get there or I have the expertise to go there lol. I wanted to tell her that her Dad must not have maintained his baby that well but of coarse I didn't. She tears up when she speaks of him. Heck I went to change oil last night and could not get hood to release and then found it two quarts low on oil and that was the tightest oil filter I have ever removed. lol I said oh lord what am I in for. I Am going to start with basic troubleshooting on the engine tonight before I do anything else. Look at Throttle boddy, air filter, ect. Cant wait to pull the plugs and take a look at them. I am going to try the 1/2 inch impact gun method this time and see how many I break. I will kneel and pray first of coarse... I will continue updating my progress as I walk thru the resurrection...

 

good luck with the rebuild!!! if I was closer I would offer to lend what experience I have with working on cars (not a mechanic but I do work on the family stable of cars ranging from fords to volvos and Nissans), sounds like a good project, if you having issues with the oil filters I would strongly recommend an oil filter wrench tool worth its money in the time saving and effort ability!!

anyways I hope you have lots of good karma come your way and her way!! be sure to posts pics!

 

CB13 I found boots at autozone for 34.99. They are duralast lifetime warranty. Do you think I need dealer quality on these?

 

No. I usually installed Duralast boots myself. My own truck included. The Motorcraft ones are just too expensive!

 

Oh super duper cause the dealer just said they are 11.54 each plus tax. Coils are 82.17 each. I told him that I don't know weather to kill my self or go home and work on my triton 5.4. He laughed and said that is quite a big decision Thanks for the response. I put the duralast on will call since they only had one set. Im going to harbor freight next to get a wire brush set to clean out the holes and chamber. lol what an ordeal...

 

Total lack of maintenance. You'll find NOTHING has been done to maintain the truck. Maybe oil/filter changes, but I bet they were numbered on one hand. Chances are good that the engine will survive this. You're on the right track with the plugs, coils and throttle body. Use the special cleaner on the throttle body. Also clean the MAF with the cleaner for that. You'll probably find a mess when you get to the air filter - check for a clear cold air path before the filter. Use Motorcraft oil filter and oil of the weight specified. Start using a fuel system cleaner in the gas when you get it running, and use it all the time. Seafoam is a good choice as it will clean over time. You already mentioned the coolant. You'll probably put at least one caliper on it, but be sure to push all the old brake fluid through at each wheel.
I think the major engine problem is the plugs/coils and possible dirty throttle body, air filter and MAF. Have fun!

 

There is no reason to use only Motorcraft oil and filter. I'm a Pennzoil guy myself but any name brand oil will do excellent in these motors including Super Tech(it really is good stuff). Same with filters, the FL820S is a great buy at WalMart prices but the Fram ToughGuard and Ultra have better rated efficiency. Wix has always made good oil filters. There are plenty of quality options.

 

Thanks for the reply 1saxman From what Ive seen so far you are dead on. The oils was 2 quarts low cause I measured it. I put a Motorcraft oil filter on and Motorcraft 5-20 w semi-synthetic oil from walmart. I put two cans of seafoam in and 23 gallons of premium fuel in it and let it run for 2 hours in driveway and then took it on a test drive which is when I found it runs like a turd. I cleaned the MAF today with crc Maf cleaner. I need to research how to clean the thorotle body since I have never done that on the Triton. I got the motor up to operating temp and I used an air gun on the first plug and snapped it off. Extracted the plug with no issues. Brushed out the plug taper in the cylinder, placed anti seize on plug threads and taper and installed plug, installed new coil boot and spring, Applied grease to boot end. Cleaned coil contact both sides and bolt with brass brush. Placed anti seize on bolt. Inspected coil primary wire and plug contact for damage and connected. Re warmed up engine for 10 minutes and did the next three plugs half turn out quarter turn in half turn out and so on and plug did not snap. Hence the fourth cylinder plug hole and taper I cleaned with brush the brush disengaged from the tool shave and fell into the cylinder. So now Im trying to extract that under a separate post. I didn't know there was a special throttle body cleaner. Do you know the brand. I always use carb and choke cleaner. Thanks again I need some aspirin and sleep LOL

 

Hello Guys,
I found that this truck has orange antifreeze in it. There is a small sticker on the reservoir that shows a bottle of orange with a circle and a strike thu it and next to it shows yellow bottle with a check mark and words ok. So should I replace the orange extended or flush and use the gold. The reservoir inside has sticky sludge film inside like the old dexcool days of chevy. I hope they didn't mix the two which is a big no no....


I got the throttle body out and it was a solid gummy black mess. cleaned it with crc throttle body cleaner. have not installed due to broken #8 plug issue in a separate post. Have two plugs I turned half turn and soaking with carb cleaner up to plug nut overnight. Installed new battery, Belt tensioner, and installed new bearings in the two idler pulleys, and of coarse a new belt.

 

Had three plugs left to complete the spark plug replacement. Broke two and one came out which was great since it was in the back by the pcm and the heater core line that wants to attack you. I ended up using four lisle tool kits. The pusher rod threads distorted on two sets and the extractor threads distorted on two. That tool steel is of poor quality. But I got all eight plugs and all new coil boots. So Im a day and a half behind since where I thought I would be. I found two valve cover bolts not tightened at all. One on each side of the motor farthest back top. Thought that was weird. Found brake fluid reservoir empty. So the brake light is out now. The only light left is the abs.


The truck runs smooth. Has great acceleration. The only issue is that the rpms get to low at a stop. It almost dies but then recovers. It did die before the plugs , boots and tb cleaning. Im thinking it may be vacuum leak.


known engine issues left is low rpm when coming to a quick stop

 

if you haven't done so yet be sure to bleed the break lines until a solid stream of fluid comes out of the valves, I am not entirely sure if its different from truck year to truck year but IIRC it needs to be done in a clock wise motion starting at the driver front left wheel.

 

My only cut from good ole number 8 cylinder.




Here is the tip from # 8 cylinder. It was not on the plug so I fished it out of the cylinder with a magnet.




Not enough pictures of these on this site so I thought Id add one. Lol




Nice clean TB. Takes your mind off the spark plug mess.




Black blood from the TB. Have never seen one as bad as this one was.




Dirty dirty engine bay. Hope to get it cleaned up a little when Im done. Did get most of the mouse turds out with air gun.




The boneyard....



I sure will. I'm hoping to get to that this week. The cold weather is coming again. Here are a few more pics of my fabulous sparkplug weekend...

 

Looks like its starting to go your way. I'm curious on changing the coolant. I have to do that on my '07 this spring. I'm thinking of just having the shop do it.