I have a restraunt willing to give me all their old WVO. or hard is it to make bio Diesel, and will my truck run it without modifications? What's the cost per gallon average out to be? Any useful info or must knows?

 

I sent SkyskiJason a pm letting him know there is a WVO question on the board. Hopefully he'll chime in. Haven't heard from in a little while. hope he's ok.

 

Assuming you have a 7.3l because that is the section your in, yes you can run bio without any modifications just as your would run diesel. But creating bio is a process and requires a still of sort whether you build one or buy one. Before making that decision you should google it and read a lot! Their are tons of site explaining the process and ones that sells the equipment needed.

I chose to run cleaned wvo. There are two ways of doing this with our trucks....the 7.3l's. The most advised is a dual fuel system......Skyjacker aka Jasan sells a bad *** system and is highly recomended but there are cheaper ways but not better. If you need/want his info I can set you up.

I chose an even cheaper way and I run a single tank system in my excursion, straight wvo in my factory tank most of the year and blend diesel in the winter time......but I live in Florida which is much warmer and easier for me to get away with.

 

You being in PA, I'd highly recomend getting with Jason and get :/ one of his conversion systems and run wvo in a 2nd tank and keep diesel in your factory tank and you will just fine. Unless you want to go through the hassle of creating biodiesel.

 

Properly made, you can run B100 in our PSD's as long as it's not too much cooler than around 40F or so. Figure on around a 10% reduction in MPG and power. (Fewer BTU's per gallon than pump diesel). The fuel bowl has a few incompatible o-rings that will need to be replaced with Viton ones, but that's really about it. I actually just changed mine out last summer after having run biodiesel in it for over 30k miles. As far as how hard is it to make? That really depends on a lot of factors. It's complex, but not complicated. I've been making biodiesel for over 7 years now, and have run it in my vehicles for over 100k miles. It's a big commitment of time and space. Right now my cost to produce is about .$60/gallon. (That's for potassium hydroxide and methanol) Although , I recently picked up a couple drums of methanol from a guy quitting biodiesel production for cheap, so full price cost to produce would likely be around $1/ gallon. Here's a good place to poke around if you become more interested and want to research reactor designs: How to Make Biodiesel at Home I fabricated all of my equipment out of steel, (reactor, wash tank, settling tank), and it's still cranking out great fuel to this day.

 

Just read the comments above my post. I chose biodiesel because the majority of my driving is less than 20 mile trips. If you routinely drive longer than that, than modifying your trucks fuel system and running straight veg oil would be the way to go.

 

A fuel pressure gauges is a must have! I chose to run my SD on wmo (waste motor oil). It is abundant andpeople will go out on a limb to get rid of it. These truck will run on almost any kind of flammable oil. It's the thickness that is always a concern.
If you plan on doing this as a primary fuel you better be willing to fork up some money to filter it properly. If you're only going to us it a little bit dont bother.
I just used my primary tank for wmo. When the temperature took a nose dive for winter I would go back to using regual diesel. For me having to constantly change the mixture was a PITA.
The only difference I ever noticed was about 100 degree warmer egts, aside from that the truck didn't have a clue it wasn't diesel fuel.
My boss fuels his two CP3 powered Cummins with hydrologic fluid and cuts it with petrol.

 

I have a very simple setup that rocks.


1- redline pump
1- non bypass filter block and a napa gold fuel filter
1- 60 gal drum (plastic)
1- hose and nozzle


about 300 and change to make. Includes 1 foot piece of steel pipe, 4 ft of 3/4 PVC pipe. 15 feet of clear reinforced fuel compatible hose and half dozen hose clamps.


Simply pour your waste veg oil into drum thru a fine paint strainer. (I use the 1 gal strainers from home depot because they have the elastic band on them and they fit perfectly over and in a 5 gal oil jug the oil comes in cut in half to act as the funnel) Fits perfectly in the barrel bung too.


Add an amount of kerosene to cut it (proportion)
Add a small amount of Gasoline (again depends on how many gals your making)
Add Power service additive in proportion
circulate it for 10 minutes
flip a valve and put the nozzle in the truck and that's it.


I have 210k on my rig and easily 100k is with this recipe, zero mods on truck 1999.


I notice very little performance difference and the truck seems to run quieter. (The exhaust smells like whatever they cooked the grease with.) Chicken/fish etc.


I get my oil from the Local Moose Lodge because they do fish fries every Friday. I volunteer to renew the fryers so that's the trade so they don't cheat on me. Good Marriage. 1/2 hour 30 gallons.


I make 55 gallons in a mere 20 minutes. Cost is dependent on gas and kerosene.
Right now at 5.00 a gal for Kerosene and 3.00 for gasoline, including the PSA I would go roughly 40 bucks for 55 gallons.


I don't distill anything and don't deal with the phosphates and other additives that others do. (not knocking anyone, just sharing what I do).


I'm in Northern Michigan and generally only run it 100 pct in the warmer months and using my 110 aux tank, on trips to Fla etc... I stockpile it in the winter. Nice to run to Fla on 80 dollars and not have to stop for fuel.


In my system, you can NOT run hydrogenated oil. You'll screw everything from your system fuel filter to the pickup socks in your fuel tank.


Most food places now use only 100 pct clear oil, veg/canola/peanut etc (non hydrogenated) because it's healthier to patrons and a big draw for the taste buds.


You'll also want to insure that they are not putting cleaning additives in the oil before draining the fryers. That will screw up the system as well. Needs to be 100 pct raw, without water etc.


You can also use Jet fuel instead of Kerosene. Whichever is nearest. I've used both.


Note: The fuel filter on my system is rated at the same micron as the fuel filter on my truck just for safety/compatibility. The system Fuel filter is also a Non bypass filter. So when it gets contaminated or full, the flow at the nozzle declines or shuts down completely notifying you of a necessary filter change. Easy stuff


I was handed down this method from a good friend (rest in piece Ronnie) who was a Diesel Engineer. He ran it in his Duramax until he passed. (I sat back for a year and studied his methods and how his truck ran out to see if it really worked). I think he had 500 miles on a pricey new Duramax when he began this show. (pretty ballsy to initiate a 50 thousand dollar truck on an experiment like this but he never bat an eye)


I will post pictures of the setup if you wish. (My photographer is asleep at the moment)


6 or 7 years easily. I'm pretty sure I've paid for the truck itself on the fuel cost I've saved over the years. Maybe not but you get the drift.


I'll get pix up asap.


Denny

 

Making bio Diesel is not hard, but the equipment uses heat and chemicals that require tight perimeters.
Modifications are for long term users, a few seals/o rings will need replaced (these vehicles are older so that may not be unique to bio anymore).


I prefer not to say much about bio-diesel because I have chosen to be part of the vo crowd (since 2003) after experimenting with both. Good luck.

 

Nice writhe up Denny. I for one would like to see those pictures.

 

I would love to see those pictures.

This all sounds like plentiful information. I for one would love to cut my own fuel costs down to start. I would like to do that. I would also like it to venture into something that could be profitable after time.

Weather here in PA like right now is at extreme colds. I've seen 0° a couple times so far this winter.

I have a garage I could make the space in to fit barrels and such, but it is not heated. And I expected the initial start up expenses, but I am going into this blind with no extensive knowledge of diesel fuels or other fuels.

I tend to engage and enjoy research. I enjoy learning new things, and the concept of building custom creations especially ones that serve a decent purpose.

This is something I would really like to get into and learn about.

I know different States all have different rules and regulations. Is there a chain of custody needed to obtain wvo from places since it's a "waste" product? And also, being it's biodiesel and an "eco" friendly type of deal, are there any grants or tax breaks or anything of that sort offered for the production and use of biodiesel?

 

on it standby!

 

I've been brewing b100 since 2006 in a Biopro 190. I rock the b100 from March to October here in Nor Cal. I start blending 50/50 for the winter. My cost is about $1 per gallon including my annual grease transporter license from the CA dept of Food and Ag.

I love the smell of bio compared to Dino diesel. It smokes way less when you're heavy on the pedal and it will clean your fuel system in no time. If you live where it does not ever get to freezing or not very often, I would highly recommend getting into it. But if you live where it gets "cold", it is not worth the trouble.

 

You are unlikely to make any money on this. Unfortunately, too many users see dollar signs when they get into alt fuels.
There is a limited quantity of vo available. The demand for it might surprise you.

Some of my vo fuel is similar to Denny's.
BTW Denny, I am happy to see one of your blends includes RUG.

ebbnflow states he runs bio from March to October, during those same months I run 100% vo when I can get it.

My reason to get involved was to burn a renewable fuel, to be as eco-friendly as possible, not to save money or make a profit, and it still is.

 

I am curious to know more about the WMO recipe and setup