Without an egr cooler, deltas only tell you the condition of the oil cooler. I wouldn't run much over 230* for extended time if it was my truck.

 

The oil temp you see on your monitor is the temp at the sensor. Its located in the oil system in a place that gives a generally accurate "overall" idea of the oil temp. At different places in the engine oil temps are much higher. +15° on the gauge doesn't necessarily mean +15° on the whole system and the gauge isn't showing the hottest temps the oil is reaching.

I ran my truck for a few months on a clogging cooler and saw 245° EOT a few times towing in the heat of summer (I know better now). The EGR cooler broke but the oil cooler didn't. I rolled the dice and got away with it (sort of). With the EGR delete you might do the same but I don't think anyone here is going to say it's ok. It's an expensive engine and the stakes are high. Good luck.

 

A coolant filter will do zero good for you now as well you still need to do a proper flush before the new cooler. A coolant filter is not going to negate that period. That train of thought is a swing and a miss in my book

2006 F350 4X4

 

I'm walking this exact road right now. It sucks BIG TIME.


It has already cost me 24 grand, because I had to buy another truck to drive while I fix mine. (I work oil field, so I drive all over the state. Didn't have time to wait on a new engine.)


Now I'm dishing out thousands to rebuild and bullet proof an engine, all because of the damned oil cooler.

 

So you're saying putting this filter on now and letting it filter out anything it can before the swap is a waste of time?

I've already done a basic drain and fill 4-6 times with distilled water.

 

Clogged is clogged. If your toilet is clogged, do you keep flushing?


Go back and read my previous post in this thread. Roll the dice if you like. No one here will tell you it's a good idea.

 

Again-im reffering to installing this filter to get rid of any other crap floating around in my cooling system BEFORE REPLACING THE OIL COOLER WITH A NEW ONE.

Seems everyone is skipping over where I'm saying I AM REPLACING THE OIL COOLER!!!!

 

So what you are saying is, you ARE replacing your oil cooler???

 

Bless your heart. We're trying to tell you that running the truck with an iffy oil cooler is bad medicine. I did it, and I'm paying for it. Do what you want, but when your engine starts swapping fluids, it's all on you. No one here will endorse this course of action, because no one wants to be called out when you post up about ruining your motor.

 

Some people don't know this part of just ignore it.
The oil in an engine does 2 basic things and in out case 3.
1 Lubrication
2 Heat transportation/removal
3 hydraulic functions in the injectors and turbo.The turbo bearing
also floats on a cushion of oil if I recall that right.

But the one you need to think about and most just miss it.
That one is #2 Heat transportation/removal. Hot oil as it moves
through the block and any coolers move heat from hot places
like the pistons from the oil jets. You also remove heat from all
the bearing surfaces and then you get into the oil film and it getting
too thin to support the load that it's being put under.
Then on top of that the temp or EOT that you see is not the highest at
that very moment. You will see hotter oil on the piston skirt walls than
at the sensor.

Now for the when to replace an oil cooler. This is MY THOUGHTS on this
topic.
So long as you are below a point where the ECM is going to start making
corrections and you see a fast recovery from a heavy load I think you may
be safe. But you don't want to give it a big shove and push it right over and
past that top limit and have a melt down.

Sean

 

I assume you did this after it was already clogged? Also the coolant filters as I understand it only filter a small % of the coolant. With your condition you need to clean with vc9 then flush then put the new cooler in and no more problems. It's that simple. I understand where you're coming from as far as saving money but you would be better served spending the money for the coolant filter on a new cooler. I take it you are having someone install the cooler so the biggest expense would be the labor?

2006 F350 4X4

 

The problem with a distilled water only flush it really doesn't do much of anything. The silicates and casting sang bond together and stick to the rough surfaces of the cooling passages. This requires some type of chemical flush that breaks up that bond and moves it out of the system by draining the system. However the biggest clumps will not dissolve right away and may remain for some time slowly breaking up because they have been softened.

Ergo the recomendation for the coolant filter to catch this stuff before it can clog your new oil cooler. The oil cooler has the smallest passages in the whole cooling system so it is easier to plug up than say the radiator.

Even the radiator can plug with enough trash and time.

 

^2 and oil cools the turbo bearing.

 

Yes I am planning on having a shop do the oil cooler (I think I can do it but better pay a professional then screw something else up)

Thinking of going with an ipr coolant filter as it looks to be the best filtering one.

I've read numerous debates on vc9/restore flushes and whether or not to actually do them.
I'd hate to do vc9/restore then swap the oil coolers just to have the new one clog up with gunk from the flush. I only want to do this job once!

 

With your cooling system already in as bad of shape as it is, I would do the VC9 and restore flushes 2 weeks or so prior to having the shop replace the oil cooler. Then run it (carefully) controlling the oil temp. This will allow the old OC to collect any leftover crap in the system.
The cooling system should be stable at this point and should not plug a new OC.