'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no help.

Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.

I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.

Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.

Opinions wanted. Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?

tia

 

I wish I could help you solve your Ranger problem - but I can't...
One thing I do need to share with you though is that when you burn Brake Cleaner, it produces a super deadly gas that can actually kill you and in all cases will cause some sort of bodily harm when exposed to it...

I use an unlit propane torch to find vacuum leaks most of the time. On some occassions, I will use carb cleaner, but not around heat sources like exhaust components..

Good luck and stay safe..

 

To add to that last post, I am not certain if the Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner has the same danger. Just the same, I would avoid using it..

 

Thanks, Big-Foot. Your warning is well heeded. Fortunately, I only did this outside. I'm so paranoid about things like this.

 

If you feel that removing the intake would most definitely give you the clearance you need I would remove it.

Pulling the intake isn't really that hard, Its a bit of a chore because of everything attached to it and around it. I would order a set of gaskets for it before you take it off (I always replace mine when I have to pull it). They are cheap and easy to get from any auto parts store, My Plenum and manifold gaskets set me back about $20 for both.

If you do pull your intake, make sure you mark all the electrical connections with masking tape so you know where they go (if you dont have the electrical diagram handy) and sort your bolts so you can put them back where they came from.
I use the card board box method, poking the bolts through cardboard in their respective pattern.

You will want to torque the bolts back to factory specs when you put it back together so having a torque wrench handy helps.

Hope this helps!

 

Yea, I did it exactly like that except for torquing intake manifold bolts. I staggered them , but got them "armstrong" tight. It was all I could do to get a ratchet in there, much less a torque wrench.

So far, running great.

Thanks

 

Shouldn't have an issue if you tightened them evenly, you would know almost imidatly if you had an leak. Stock torq specs arn't that much to begin with. I feel you on clearance tho, I keep a 3/8ths torq wrench handy for those hard to reach places.

Still glad you got her purring again!