New to me truck, 2004 250, bought in Aug, 110K on it.

First thing out of the gate the FICM wiring Harness was bad, so I will have to replace that, I was thinking that since I'm that far into it why not just go a little farther and have a look see at the EGR Cooler and the HPOP...

I don't get white smoke on start or any other time, seems to run fine, sorry haven't got a scanguage yet, so no data.

Thinking about doing the EGR Delete, but not really sure on all the pro's/cons of it.

Being an 04 truck It won't throw any codes if I put in the delete, and its far more economical to do the delete, however I have heard that new ECM program/updates could cause the truck to throw a code...

Looked at BPD and their EGR oil cooler, but that is just plainly out of the budget for now.

SOOOO
If I delete am I looking at a potential check engine light (god I hate those) in the future, and or issues when I go in for emissions, can they really tell its been deleted???

What is everyone thoughts on this....

Thanks

 

No check engine light on an 04 if you delete the egr. Leave the egr valve in place. Testing shows unplugging the egr valve fools around with the operation of the fan.

I can't comment on the emissions question. I appreciate that in not injecting all that soot into my intake.

 

Who makes a good EGR Delete?

Or are all EGR Deletes created equal, no real differences?

 

There are two basic types. The IPR GEN2 that most people rave about, and the standard 180 pipe. I have experience with the 180 pipe type. Each of these come with and without the exhaust up pipe. I'll get into that later.

The 180s come in cheap, average and best. The cheap does not have stainless anf aluminium parts. I bought one of those, noticed the carbon steel coolant return port, then returned it. I then bought an average one. The 180 coolant feed pipe did not line up with the.oil cooler.outlet pipe. It was a 1" offset. I ordered another average delete with intents on returning the first average delete kit only to find it had a 3/4" offset in the coolant feed 180 pipe going the other direction. Ilk try and post photos later.

Then I dicided to fix the alingment problem and simply threaded the fitting more.to get it to align. I then used the first average kit I purchasef anf returned the second one.

I would think the best egr delete kits (sinister diesel) would not have alignment problems.

About the IPR delete.... That kit will not allow you to install both screws to anchor the oil cooler coolant outlet housing to the oil cooler cap. That made me a little nervous, but those that use that kit love them.

You can reuse your exhaust up pipe and save a little money. But some advise that the plug you insert tends to leak and the pipe is hanging too flexible without the egr chamber supporting it.... causing a potential long term leak from am exhaust puppet expansion joint failure ing the up pipe. I think changing the stock up pipe with the expansion joint to a stainless solid up pipe is the way to go, but it adds 20% more work because you have remove the exhaust flange bolts on the passenger side. I found removing the tire and going through the wheel well easier.

If you do choose to delete, consider grinding three egr support tab off the intake manifold. This will allow you to remove the intake manifold without having to remove the turbo in the future.

Hope this helps. I'll look for pictures, butt I just changed phones and it could be tomorrow.

 

You don't have to leave the EGR valve in place as you'll get an "Insufficient EGR Flow" code if you do. You simply need to have it plugged in and off to the side as most of us do. Ford even left a convenient place to bolt down the EGR valve on the intake manifold horn.

 

You forgot about the simplest type, which is "remove, weld plugs into EGR cooler, reinstall".

 

Best idea. That way if you ever have to have a visual inspection, you're good to go.

 

I like simple...

Can it be this easy though? I mentioned this to a friend and they said there was more to it than that, this is my first diesel and I am clueless to this whole process.

What other areas would I need to be concerned about it I were to just weld the old cooler, if any?

Thanks

 

Nope. That's prettymuch all there is to it. 50/50 shot of a CEL. If you get the light, get a programmer that can shut the light off.

 

Sweet, it's simple, saves $$$ and quick....

Truck has an SCT Tuner which came with it and can clear these CEL's, but if I get a CEL would that be a reoccurring item and always having to reset it?

Also found the EGR Disconnect thread in the Tech File, reading thru that now, but a little confused with terms, is a EGR Disconnect the same as an EGR Delete?

Thx

 

No. A disconnect just unplugs the sensor/valve assembly. The delete keeps exhaust gasses from going through your engine. The freeze plug is the best method in my mind. It keeps the truck appearing emissions compliant, and the Cooler supports the weight of the exhaust system rather than hanging it from the turbo housing.

 

Well that settles it, looks like I will be setting up my race truck with a plugged EGR cooler.


Mine is an early 04, built in Jan, and has the square tubed cooler. Going to do this mod, you mentioned freeze plugs, so basically just welding in a freeze plug in each end of the cooler, right?

 

Use stainless pugs if you can,standard freeze plugs won't last

 

Got a part number for these plugs? My engine is apart right now, so this would be a great time to upgrade it.

 

Yeah, I knew about that welding the egr chamber closed, butt I'm not a big fan of it.

If your egr cooler is ruptured like mine was, and you weld the ends shut, you will be coverting the egr chamber to a big coolant pipe. Problem is, if the chamber is already ruptured, the coolant will be running across old sootted up metal and carrying that soot into your coolant system. So, if your egr chamber is ruptured, do not weld the ends shut. It will be a mistake that you will have to correct when you change the clogged oil cooler two times. Been there. Done that.