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help pulling y block

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Old 02-02-2015, 05:31 PM
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help pulling y block

I am going to pull my y block and manual trans from my 56 f100. I have never done it. I have a Harbor Freight 2 ton crane and I think I am going to buy HF #60659 heavy duty load leveler to give myself every advantage. I am not going to remove the front clip but I have removed the radiator. Can I take the engine and trans out while still together? The load leveler has two chains at each end. Where is the best place to hook the chains? What grade bolts should I use? I watched some you tube videos that almost scared me away. Then I decided I was at least a little smarter than those guys and have a secret weapon, you guys. Any engine pulling advise for a novice would be appreciated.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:26 PM
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Make certain the hoist is rated heavy enough with the boom extended to the necessary length. Verify the hoist will lift the engine and transmission high enough to clear the sheetmetal. Are the front legs on the crane extendable far enough to prevent the crane fromtipping? No matter how well balanced or set up the hoisting device is, the engine will swing. Stabilize it with bungee cords or straps and go slow. Gr 5 bolts will work. Use flat washer with the bolts.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:20 PM
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As Ray said your hoist will probably do it OK ,but if it was me I'd drop the trans. I find it a bit more managable to pull something 3 ft. long and heavy instead of 5ft long and heavier. Just my 2, only worth 1.5.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by toby tough
As Ray said your hoist will probably do it OK ,but if it was me I'd drop the trans. I find it a bit more managable to pull something 3 ft. long and heavy instead of 5ft long and heavier. Just my 2, only worth 1.5.
Worth more than that! I tend to agree. The only reason I was going to do both is as a test. I am going to replace them with a 302 and a ford AOD trans. My friend who is going to help with the installation is hell bent on putting them in as one piece. I gotta believe that the new trans is way longer than the manual. I am also concerned with trans mount and cross member interference both removing and replacing.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by filthy6
Worth more than that! I tend to agree. The only reason I was going to do both is as a test. I am going to replace them with a 302 and a ford AOD trans. My friend who is going to help with the installation is hell bent on putting them in as one piece. I gotta believe that the new trans is way longer than the manual. I am also concerned with trans mount and cross member interference both removing and replacing.
You're really pushing your luck trying to pull the Y block and the tranny together without removing the front clip, but the idea of reinstalling a 302 and AOD with an engine lift without removing the front clip is begging for a disaster. That 'crane' is rated at 2 ton, with the arm all the way retracted, to lift the engine and transmission over the the the front end, you will need it extended all the way, where it is then rated at 1/2 ton. Your 302 and AOD together weigh close to 650-675# and the length extends way beyond the reach of the crane arm, putting you at or beyond the tipping point, especially if you are raising it high enough to clear the fender height. Your friends insistence is really to your detriment in this case.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:36 PM
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I have done it and its not a good situation. You have to lift it so high and do not try to move the crane with it up that high. The y block and trans will be almost 1,000 pounds together. IF you do end up doing it this way be sure to lift and then roll the truck out of the way.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:25 PM
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BTW, that leveler won't level it with the tranny hanging off the back of the motor.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by harleymsn
BTW, that leveler won't level it with the tranny hanging off the back of the motor.
I wondered about that.
 
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
I wondered about that.
I used one of those pulling the flathead out of my F5 without taking the front clip off and it didn't completely level that motor..... close but not completely.
 
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Old 02-03-2015, 06:27 AM
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Another thought, make certain the ceiling in your shop has enough clearance to allow even the engine to clear over the clip. A few inches could be gained by lowering tire pressure. But, I agree with what others have said, not a good idea. I was trying to guide you to an educated decision in my earlier post.
 
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Old 02-03-2015, 07:15 AM
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In the long run, I think it would just be easier to remove the front clip. It's not that many bolts if you remove the clip as a whole. Since you are replacing the engine, it will be so much easier setting up motor mounts with the clip off as well.

Having the clip off will also give you a good opportunity to inspect everything well.
 
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Old 02-03-2015, 07:35 AM
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I 2nd Joe's post. Unbolt the front fenders & inner fenders from the cab (FYI the top bolt is a stud on each fender), remove the radiator saddle bolts from below and you & your buddy can lift the front clip off leaving LOTS of room to both pull and install engine & Transmission.
 
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Old 02-03-2015, 11:42 AM
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Time to reboot. I will take the trans out first. What about the bell housing? Now that I am pulling just the motor can I just use a lifting plate bolted to the intake manifold carb bolt holes or should I still use the load leveler and bolt to some other locations. I am outside so no roof concerns. I will move the truck after I raise the engine. I will take a hard look at removing the front clip although this truck has been so Frankensteined I am hesitant to do that if I don't have to. I am beginning to think I am not much smarter than those guys on You Tube except that I had the good sense to check in with you guys.
 
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Old 02-03-2015, 02:02 PM
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I for got something very pertinent, if you remove the front clip you'll have to address the wiring as well. Horn, regulator etc can simply be removed but the running and headlights could be more of a PITA.
YES You can leave the Bellhousing on and use a lifting plate to remove the engine without a tranny.
Don't forget you'll need different motor and transmission mounts for the new motor you put in. Probably will need to have your drive shaft shortend too. Lucky you have a 56 that's already 12 Volt.
 
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Old 02-03-2015, 06:22 PM
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