help pulling y block
#1
help pulling y block
I am going to pull my y block and manual trans from my 56 f100. I have never done it. I have a Harbor Freight 2 ton crane and I think I am going to buy HF #60659 heavy duty load leveler to give myself every advantage. I am not going to remove the front clip but I have removed the radiator. Can I take the engine and trans out while still together? The load leveler has two chains at each end. Where is the best place to hook the chains? What grade bolts should I use? I watched some you tube videos that almost scared me away. Then I decided I was at least a little smarter than those guys and have a secret weapon, you guys. Any engine pulling advise for a novice would be appreciated.
#2
Make certain the hoist is rated heavy enough with the boom extended to the necessary length. Verify the hoist will lift the engine and transmission high enough to clear the sheetmetal. Are the front legs on the crane extendable far enough to prevent the crane fromtipping? No matter how well balanced or set up the hoisting device is, the engine will swing. Stabilize it with bungee cords or straps and go slow. Gr 5 bolts will work. Use flat washer with the bolts.
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#4
Worth more than that! I tend to agree. The only reason I was going to do both is as a test. I am going to replace them with a 302 and a ford AOD trans. My friend who is going to help with the installation is hell bent on putting them in as one piece. I gotta believe that the new trans is way longer than the manual. I am also concerned with trans mount and cross member interference both removing and replacing.
#5
Worth more than that! I tend to agree. The only reason I was going to do both is as a test. I am going to replace them with a 302 and a ford AOD trans. My friend who is going to help with the installation is hell bent on putting them in as one piece. I gotta believe that the new trans is way longer than the manual. I am also concerned with trans mount and cross member interference both removing and replacing.
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Another thought, make certain the ceiling in your shop has enough clearance to allow even the engine to clear over the clip. A few inches could be gained by lowering tire pressure. But, I agree with what others have said, not a good idea. I was trying to guide you to an educated decision in my earlier post.
#11
In the long run, I think it would just be easier to remove the front clip. It's not that many bolts if you remove the clip as a whole. Since you are replacing the engine, it will be so much easier setting up motor mounts with the clip off as well.
Having the clip off will also give you a good opportunity to inspect everything well.
Having the clip off will also give you a good opportunity to inspect everything well.
#13
Time to reboot. I will take the trans out first. What about the bell housing? Now that I am pulling just the motor can I just use a lifting plate bolted to the intake manifold carb bolt holes or should I still use the load leveler and bolt to some other locations. I am outside so no roof concerns. I will move the truck after I raise the engine. I will take a hard look at removing the front clip although this truck has been so Frankensteined I am hesitant to do that if I don't have to. I am beginning to think I am not much smarter than those guys on You Tube except that I had the good sense to check in with you guys.
#14
I for got something very pertinent, if you remove the front clip you'll have to address the wiring as well. Horn, regulator etc can simply be removed but the running and headlights could be more of a PITA.
YES You can leave the Bellhousing on and use a lifting plate to remove the engine without a tranny.
Don't forget you'll need different motor and transmission mounts for the new motor you put in. Probably will need to have your drive shaft shortend too. Lucky you have a 56 that's already 12 Volt.
YES You can leave the Bellhousing on and use a lifting plate to remove the engine without a tranny.
Don't forget you'll need different motor and transmission mounts for the new motor you put in. Probably will need to have your drive shaft shortend too. Lucky you have a 56 that's already 12 Volt.