I'm working on my '83 Ranger with Perkins 2.2l. Recently replaced the starter and flywheel ring gear, since the old starter pinion was shot and the old ring gear was even worse. (thanks again to Bruker, who helped me locate a 'new' ring gear!)


Have driven the truck several times since putting the motor back in. I am concerned because the starter will still spin without engaging. Not every time, but it's done it several times now. I really don't want to wreck the ring gear, 'cause there may not be another one out there! Any ideas why a new starter (reman) would not 'pre-engage' a ring gear that was in really good shape?

 

Either its needing shimmed, or you got a not so great starter.

 

I would guess that the engagement fork in the starter is bent or broken, but the internal contacts in the starter might have a defect too. If one is bent or has a burr or something it will touch engaging the starter motor before the fork has pushed the gear into mesh.

The wrong depth could be an issue like Hairy said, but my experience with japanese stuff is that they never use shims (minor assumption here that they use a aisin trans) so another similar possibility is that the starter is simply the wrong starter and has the wrong depth to engage the ring gear. I can really easily envision someone doing cross reference for that application and goofing up in the listing. And the parts clerk would have no real way of knowing.

 

While I haven't completely figured out the issue with this starter, I do think it's the right one. Did a pretty careful comparison at the store when I was turning in the core. Most of the time it works perfectly. Seems like the problem of not engaging (no grinding noises, just whirring) occurs when I first try to start it on cold (40 or below) mornings. It was suggested to me by the counterman at O'Reilly's where I bought it that it might be the sprag clutch, new with heavy grease. I'll give it a little more time and see if it 'loosens up' before I pull it.

 

from what your saying, i think your on the right track, if it's not to had to pull i would and use some chain & cable lube on bendix shaft & in the clutch, i use some from Certified Labs it has a dry moly in it (i use it on everything, door locks, door hinges, anyplace that you would use a spray lube) messy stuff but well worth it, it will wick 1 1/2", they make it in clear and black, i use the black, but for the environment you're operating in the clear will be fine, it's not as messy, hope this helps