I have a 2008 V10 DRW F350 4WD.
It is a factory set up, but the rear sits up to high.
I pull a gooseneck trailer and its to close as the rear of the truck sits higher than the front.
Looking at the rear axle/leaf connection, it looks like there is a factory 1.5"-2" metal spacer block between the spring perch and the spring pack,, will removing this create any problems ?


Thanks,
Slack

 

I did some reading on the forum about lowering,,
My 08 350 rides smooth silk with NO vibrations.
I was looking for opinions if lowering 2" would create problems?
Where is the best place to get new U bolts?


Thanks,
Slack

 

Does your trailer sit level when on the truck?how much does the truck sag loaded ? And the goose can also be adjusted to add space between truck and trailer. There are people on here that run a 4" factory block or even a 5" aftermarket block like my self. Removing the block also removes the snubber on the truck so your leafs don't bottom out. If there's too much rake from front to rear a level kit will raise the front so the tailgate area don't hit the trailer. I'd try adjusting the goose and add a level kit before removing a factory block that's only 1.75 inches

 

I also have a 2008 f-350 drw 4X4.....yes they do sit pretty high in the back.

one of the problems with lowering the rear as you mention is that the thicker than what is used on the f-250 (along with overleafs and the overleaf spacer) is what helps in providing extra payload that you need .


I think everything that folks have done in the past to lower a vehicle (changing spacers, moving the axle above the leafs, compressing the suspension system, etc) would be not recomended for some reason or another.

can I suggest you analize the suspension system of your trailer to see if it currently has the axles above the leafs (as mine has) and you consider moving the axles below the leafs (as I plan to). this will raise your trailer a few inches and solve your problem.

technically since the trailer will now ride higher, it would be more prone to sway when empty......but running nose high would also make it more prone to sway.

if the risk of sway concerns you....anti-sway bars are easy to install and work well.

 

I think an f-350 block is double the thickness of an f-250 block.

 

Ya its 4" as the smaller is 1.75. But people run 4 or 5 with a gooseneck all the time like I do . There's adjustment on the the neck of the trailer also to move it away from the truck

 

one more thing.....if you go the raise trailer route....make sure you get a welder to add the axle perch/notch/bracket (depending on the axle system) you currently have 180 degrees over to the other side.

you cant just rotate the axles when you move them from above the leafs to below the leafs.....you have to move them in the exact oreintation so mark the axles and note their position.

the reason is trailer axles are concaved, and if you rotate the axles when moving them from above to below the leafs they will be concave in the wrong direction.

 

Thanks for e responses,
The gooseneck trailer is a horse trailer, currently it is riding perfectly level, I can not jack the front of the trailer up or it will take weight off the front trailer axle and put it on the rear,,,, Blown tires are no fun with a trailer load of horses.
The horse trailer has welded in torsion axles, so no raising the trailer.
It has plenty of clearance with my 03 F250 xtra cab.
But I bought the 08 DRW F350 to pull this trailer, if I can lower the rear of of this truck 1-2" it will work.


This truck has 1-3/4" spacer with the built in "snubber" between the spring perch and leaf spring pack.
The trailer puts very little weight on the truck, the truck does not squat at all when hooking up, and maybe 1/2" - 1" when loaded with horses and tack.


The last thing I want to do is screw up the silky smooth drive line, but I am wondering if removing the 1-3/4" will affect the drive line?
If the spacer with the snubber is removed will the rubber bumper hitting the axle (in the rare chance I bottom out) hurt anything?


Thanks,
Slack

 

Wiped out the tail gate and rear corner of my bed leaving a rodeo taday, the drive had a crest, and when the truck went over the crest and the trailer was still down hill it contacted my tailgate (and it was on a curve so I caught the rear corner of the bed.
I have 1.75" spacer from the factory on this f350 (see pic)
The trailer runs level now, so I cant just extend the gooseneck, I need to lower the rear of the truck AND extend the gooseneck. I only need about 1.5 - 2.00".
My trailer seems pretty well balanced as it does not lower the truck at all when hooking it up. I don't "need" the capacity of the F350 at all, I only bought it for the V10 and the superior tracking of the dual rear wheels.
Any Ideas how to lower this truck slightly? this is getting to be a real PIA


thanks for any suggestions,
Nick

 

How about flipping the trailer axels to under the leaf springs it will raise the back so you can raise the neck. Other than that i dont know i have a 5" block and pull my goose horse trailer with 35" tires

 

Hotrod, The trailer has torsion axles,, their welded in, part of the trailer frame.
I am going to have to find a way to lower the rear of the truck 1-2"

 

Perhaps increase the rim/tire size of the trailer might be the better solution. Is that possible?


I suppose you can pull the blocks and try it but I think it is not going to drive very well.


Nothing you can do to lengthen the gooseneck adapter where it mounts on your ball?

 

I would just take the truck to a truck spring and chassis shop, have them pull out the blocks and make new U-bolts to fit. They do it all the time, it's the business they are in after all. If you pick up a driveline vibration (kind of unlikely given how people are always raising their trucks without big problems), then deal with that at the time. They can also re-arch the springs if that seems a better option. Note that the spacer is also the bump stop snubber. It's very important to run trailers with torsion axles level, they do not equalize the load between the axles the way leaf spring trailers do.

Brian

 

Isnt an Excursion bump stop spacer about 2" shorter than the F250/F350 blocks? Maybe one of those would get you low enough and retain the bump stop.

 

Senix _ increasing the trailer tires would not be practical as they are a standard size horse trailer rim/tire for that load rating, and I would have to get 6 (4 + 2 spare) "not so standard" rims/tires for each trailer.


MC5C - I think you hit the nail on the head, time for me to drop it off at a chassis shop and let a pro handle it. It's just not going to be a driveway fix.


Mil Machine - for some bazar reason my 08 f350 duelly came with 2" blocks, but still sits high in the rear.