Has anyone ever put on an add a leaf on the front springs? I have the rear where I want it with RAS and the Hellwig anti-sway bar. Just looking for a method to stiffen those 2 pathetic leaves some. If I hadn't done all that to the rear I probably would swap springs. I'm afraid the front v(?) codes would change the attitude of the X and perhaps giving me the rear down look. I'm sure an add a leaf would raise it some as well. I'm kinda just bouncing (no pun intended) this idea around and welcome feedback. Thanks

How in heaven's name did the design guys get by the engineering dept and put in those pitiful popsicle sticks as front suspension?

 

The old GM full size Blazers did the same thing back in the day. The more a spring is arched the harsher the ride, hence a flat or anti-arched spring in front for that great mini van ride !! You can use one of the mini spring leafs (10"-15") but, DO NOT run a full add-a-leaf. The ride will be so ruff you'll need to wear a mouth guard !!

 

I was thinking the same thing. I need just a little more lift to clear my 35's, right now they rub at full turn. I have the pro comp springs on there now which is like 4-5", but just another .5-1" would probably do the trick. I was also thinking about front air bags as well.

 

Since you already have a +arched front spring you can run a full add-a-leaf with no noticeable diff other than the 1/2" height gain. Easier to just trim back the plastic fender liner & move on...

 

If you can send me to a link or a picture of doing that I'd appreciate it. I wasn't quite sure how to do that without exposing everything behind the liner to mud, water, etc.

 

If you look at the inside lower 4"-6" of the liner you will see exactly where you are rubbing. Take your cutting tool of choice (NOT A TORCH FOR THIS ONE !!!) & hack away. NOTHING says, I'm not a pavement queen like hacking up fender wells.

 

You don't want to cut out part of the inner fender wells. That will leave a spot for crap to get under the hood.



As for the OP, I have a full add a leaf in the front of mine. It firmed up the ride and I got about a inch and a half of height out of it.

 

Same here, I swapped in X codes from a snow plow prepped F-350 and then added the nearly full length top overload leaf from a set of rear B codes to the X codes. It certainly does ride more firmly but it's silly to suggest a mouth guard is needed.
Are you sure that your 35"s are rubbing the wheelwell liner or is it a little bit of spring rub that you hear at full lock? If it is the liner, pull it back with some zip ties rather than cutting it up, cutting them for this reason defeats their purpose and is bad advice.

 

Originally Posted by harley4jcs
Since you already have a +arched front spring you can run a full add-a-leaf with no noticeable diff other than the 1/2" height gain. Easier to just trim back the plastic fender liner & move on...


A mouth guard is desirable when you place a + arched full add-a-leaf under a STOCK flat or - arched spring as the OP was asking
I trim fenders & well on MOST of my 4X4's with no ill effects, each to his own

 

So sounds like I can do a small edition. Does it help any with
wandering or improve steering since you are creating , an admittedly small amout,a stiffer spring pack? In 4WD you have the same issue with spring wrap as the back, don't you?

 

Yep, this one. Worked great. Gave me the lift I needed in the front to level out the truck after putting modded S springs and F350 block in the rear and 2" lift shackles in the front.

Skyjacker F9320 Softride Front Add-A-Leaf Helper Spring with Tie Bolt - Pair

 

I've got full add a leaf, in fact mines made for a diesel rig, it's not a rough ride, it firmed it up. But not anywhere near mouth guard rough.

 

And my X codes with the nearly full length leaf added pretty much equal what you have described above, and it is silly to suggest that a mouth guard is needed for this setup. My rig has had this setup now for 3+ years and has pulled our travel trailers from GA to ME and West to KY and OH and nearly everywhere in between with a full load people on board, so far everyone's dental work is still intact with not a single complaint.
I agree with what you said as far as "to each his own" but I also think we should be doing our best to put out factual real world info to help folks decide what they might want to do when modding their EXs.
Here is one of my X codes with the added top overload from the rear B codes sitting directly behind one of the stock front springs, you can see that the added leaf is nearly full length.

 

Cool idea using a leaf off the rears as an add a leaf on the front. Looks a lot like the skyjacker add-a-leaf I installed.

[QUOTE=WE3ZS;15051058]Here is one of my X codes with the added top overload from the rear B codes sitting directly behind one of the stock front springs, you can see that the added leaf is nearly full length.

 

HOLY S*** I will try to spane my post one more time. I WILL BE ADDING THE REAR overload spring from the B's to my NEW front packs as well because of front runners like you Tom.. GREAT USE of what I got for free with the B codes. My point & experience dictates THAT IT IS A VERY BAD PLAN and costly mistake to try to RE-ARCH a wore out FLAT or A NEG ARCHED spring with a add-a-leaf ( IE: the example of the Full Size Blazer I spoke of in the op) the ride is UNBEARABLE & I have a very high threshold as far as ride comfort goes