Meter is set to Ohm. Positive lead in the ohm port. Negative lead in the the common port.

The brown/white wire that is rubbed through is going to #21 on the 42 pin connector.

 

if you touch the leads together is the meter showing zero ohms or close to it??

 

pm sent................

 

Ohm meter - Paul seems to be on top of this.

So, here is the Wire Schematic for the 42 pin connector. Seems as though #21 is supplying the reference voltage for the CPS, MAP, EBP sensor & ICP sensor.

 

Subscribing

 

Mike,
It looks like pin 21 brown and white wire is 5volt reference voltage for all the sensors. Good thing it didn't rub all the way through. Don't think it was killing nbr 4 though

 

OHM'd the driver side. I was going to the big hole, not the small one under it. Everything on the driver's side ohm'd to 3.3 to 3.8. With those readings if it was a bad solenoid would I get a higher reading or is that just telling me the wires are good?

Having a hard time getting the solder to stick to the wires to patch in a new piece. going to use a solder gun after dinner instead of the butane one I've been using.

Think I'm going to call it a night once that wire is fixed and pick back up tomorrow.

Instead of the mess of pulling the injectors, I think I might just swap #2 and #4 solenoids. That should move the problem/codes shouldn't it?

 

It should move the problem with it. IF its a solenoid problem.

That's telling you the amount of resistance in the loop of what you're testing. Wires, solenoids, connections, etc.

Prior to moving the Solenoid, compare both solenoids to determine if they're approximately at the solenoid connections.

 

You may have saved your PCM.

 

Torch? Soldering gun? That's akin to using a leaf blower to put the candles out on a birthday cake - it can make a mess. I use a 45 watt soldering pencil, but something close to 35 watts will do. The soldering gun uses 175 watts, you may want to go easy on the trigger.

 

Rich, I think he is referring to a butane soldering iron. In the cold, they don't put out a lot of heat. You are right to caution about a soldering gun. That is way too hot for itty bitty wires. If the wind is blowing on the wiring, a cardboard shield and an electric iron sized as Rich says 35 - 45 watts is plenty. Or be real quick with the trigger on that soldering gun!

 

It was only a 100 watt gun. Did the trick perfect for me. Nice and clean heat shrink the wires and taped them all up.

Not that I think this is the issue, I'm going to throw the IC pipe in real quick and start it up to see if that was the problem. I know deep down inside it isn't but a guy can hope....

 

Just getting back on this...

Put in new valve cover gasket and new UVCH. Moved injector solenoid from #4 to #2.

Cleared all codes with AE, ran buzz test. Code did not move with injector solenoid. Still getting a code for P1274. Injector #4 high to low side open.

IDM?

PCM? (I know this probably isn't the one but who knows at this point)

I'm starting to scatch my head on this one....help.....

 

Just ohmed the male pin from the 42 pin connector to the IDM connector. Came back at 0.6 ohms. Thinking it's not a wire issue. Going to grab an known good IDM and throw it in real quick to see how this goes...

 

let us know if the new IDM works Mike. Dose sound fishy to me too.