Since getting it road legal I have put 211 miles on it. 45 of those miles were in 4x4 today. I was wondering about the condition of the transfer case and I'm fairly certain that it's in good shape after today.



4x4 light works which I didn't realize. Pretty neat.



It's still leaking fuel. That's next on the list. Simply has to be fixed before I drive it much more.

 

Kudos to you for all the hard work you've done. Your build/repairs look eerily similar to several I had to do to my truck. You even have the same air cleaner as me.

 

Wow! You do awesome work! Really nice job on the the photos too.

 

Thank you! It was quite neglected before I bought it. And I really had fun doing it. Took a lot longer to get it to where it is and a bit more money too but that's ok. It's by no means finished. Plenty more to come.

Air cleanr I bought at Autozone. Not bad for the price.

 

Soon to come:

Autometer Pro Comp 2 5/8" Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge
Autometer Pro Comp 2 5/8" Fuel Level Gauge
Autometer Pro Comp 2 5/8" Mechanical Water Temp Gauge

Autometer 2 5/8" Black Gauge Panel

And I'm completely replacing the fuel system as it's been hacked into too many times and leaks. Easiest way is to go to a fuel cell. Not the cheapest but after trying to mess with the uncommon low pressure in take fuel pumps, fuel level sending units and all that I'm just sick of messing with it. The fuel cell I'm going with is only 16 gallons which isn't a whole lot but it will do the job. If it bothers me that much (which I don't think it will) then I will upgrade to a larger fuel cell later on.

Summit Racing SUM-290108 - Summit Racing Pro Street Fuel Cell 16 Gallon
Summit Racing SUM-290154 - Summit Racing Fuel Cell Mount Kit
Summit Racing SUM-220766B - Summit Racing Fuel Hose Fittings (2)
Mr. Gasket 2015 - Mr. Gasket Fuel Pressure Regulator
Carter P74029 - Carter In-Line Electric Fuel Pump
Goodyear Replacement Hose 65153 Fuel Injection Hose 25 Feet
Mr. Gasket 1564 - Mr. Gasket Fuel Pressure Gauges with Inline Adapter
Trans-Dapt Performance Products 9245 Glass and Chrome Fuel Filters (2)

Since I don't have an on the block fuel pump I plan to use a fuel pressure regulator with a return and a gauge between the regulator and the carb. Removing the rear tank, side tank, all factory fuel lines and diverter valve. I plan to mount the fuel cell in place of the rear tank. In order to put fuel into the fuel cell I plan to cut out a hole in the bed with a plasma cutter to make a flip type lid with hinges.

I understand that the fuel cell method does have some inconveniences. Like having a 16 gallon capacity and having to fold the tail gate down to add fuel. However, once it's done and set up it will work and it's serviceable. I'm tired of dropping tanks, fuel leaks and not knowing how much fuel I have. Not to mention the diverter valve is stuck on the rear tank which is an expensive part.


As for the exhaust... Just some Hedman headers, 3" Spintech 3000 Series mufflers and having a exhaust shop route it the way it is now, which I really like. The reason for headers and exhaust is because the donut gaskets are blown out and the studs look like they will break off when I go to unbolt the exhaust from the exhaust manifolds. And the exhaust has seen better days as well, it doesn't leak that I know of but a couple spots are heavily rusted.

Replacing motor mounts and transmission mount. Might make my own solid mounts. But still debating on that.


Going to rebuild the T19 and BW1345. Just before something ends up going bad and costs more money down the road. Neither is too pricey to rebuild considering. Also throwing in a new flywheel, clutch, slave cylinder and master cylinder while I'm at it of course.

After all the above it's pretty much done. At least for a while.


FUEL PLANS HAVE CHANGED see post number 37.

 

Hayden power steering cooler kit came in. OEM line cracked on the cross member so instead of just looping it I'm adding a cooler. For some reason Ford thought the power steering fluid needed cooled so I'm installing one. The OEM one is just a line looped around. This, although smaller and a reduction in volume, should work much better. And prevent it from leaking like an SOB like it is. Every 30 miles I have to fill the reservoir on the power steering pump. Not fun. This will be a nice fix.





And the fuel supply plans changed drastically. Going to edit the post before this one and make another post below on the new plans. If you have any advice I'm all ears!

 

38 Gal. Steel Tank, Pick-Up
1980-96 Bronco Gas Tank Breather Valve Seal
1980-96 Bronco Gas Tank Breather Valve
Sending Unit Seal
Sending Unit Lock Ring
19 Gallon Sending Unit 80-84 Ford Truck
Sending Unit Repair PigTail 2 Prong
Holley Red Electric Fuel Pump 12-801-1 7psi
Quick Fuel Fuel Pump Wiring Kit 30-199
Holley HP Billet Fuel Pressure Regulator 12-841 4.5-9psi 3/8NPT
Holley Analog Fuel Pressure Gauge 26-500
Summit Racing SUM-G3116 3/8" NPT To Hose Barb 4/8 Summit Pack
Spectre Performance SSteel-Flex Fuel Line 29425 50' (x2 for 100 feet)
Russell Tube Seal Hose Clamps 620270 Red .375 12)
Helix Line Clamps HEXLC2375 12

Not added to the list is straps, just noticed that.

Getting everything fuel tank related from Bronco Graveyard and everything else from Summit. Should be one heck of a fuel system. The Holley Red pump should be overkill for now. But it's reliable and will always supply the fuel I need. No matter what.

 

The only thing I have done since last posting on here was install the Hayden power steering cooler.

The cooler is only temporary. It's smaller than I would like, I don't like the location, the new pump is evidently leaking somewhere else, the pump squals the belts early of a morning at about 1800rpm on up, and I just can't afford to keep putting Type F in it at $3 a quart for the cheap stuff.

I can drive the truck about 15 miles before having to top the reservoir off again. I can tell when the pumps low because it gets loud. Otherwise its quiet as can be.

The line had a crack in it so that's why I added the cooler. I cut that section out. But it's still leaking just as fast. I'm going to do a Saginaw conversion and be done with it.







Now that I think of it. I also changed the oil at 1000 miles. The previous owner didn't change the oil enough. So what I put in it got dirty fast. I bought two gallons of this. Same stuff I used last time. 460 still runs great.

 

That aftermarket cooler probably works better than the factory tube coil line does under there lol. I think next time I change oil I'm going to use 5w40 as well.

 

I figured even though it technically reduces the capacity a little (as it's much shorter) the ability to dissipate heat much better should make up for it.

I forget now what made me get 5w40. Something I read must have been awful convincing. I guess the 460 likes it. It'll hold it, builds awesome oil pressure quickly and seems to operate pretty quietly. I'm always leery with synthetics but I knew I wanted diesel Rotella in 5w40. Maybe Rotella makes other non-synthetic's that are for diesels and in 5w40, I don't know. I'm sure there was a reason for me specifically choosing the oil that I did. Now I just stick with it. lol

 

From what I could find, 5w40's are all synthetics. 15w40 was way too thick in the winter, 10w30 seems good But I only have 15 PSI at 550 RPM after running the interstate for a while. 40 weight was 20 PSI after the same trip. 5w40 fits my bill, even if it is a little more expensive. Still cheaper than an engine lol. I've never tried synthetic motor oil before, except for 2 cycle use, I use it exclusively due to less carbon buildup. Works great for that. I put my new Honda mower on 10w30 syn and will run that for all it's life just to see how it does. Same with my new Honda pressure washer that's coming in the mail lol.

 

I don't have an actual gauge to read oil pressure. Just the gauge in the instrument cluster. Which likely isn't very accurate.

I did check it with a gauge I rigged up temporarily when I got the truck running right. If my memory serves me correctly it was 45-50psi when cold, once warm idle was 15-20psi and 35-40psi cruising down the highway. Which with the 460, T19 and 3:55's is about 55mph and 2200-2300RPM.

This truck is the only thing I run a synthetic oil in. And it seems to hold oil better than anything else I have for the most part. lol

 

My oil pressure gauge isn't very accurate. 15-20 PSI and it's 3/4 of the way to the high side for the factory gauge. That can't be right lol.

 

The factory gauge isn't really of much use, and certainly not for diagnostic purposes.

 

That's my thoughts on it as well. Which is why when I got the truck ready to be out on the road I hooked up a temporary aftermarket oil pressure gauge to see how it was doing.

I need some gauges but the ones I want are kinda expensive. It's the Autometer Pro Comp liquid filled gauges in 2-5/8". Oil press, water temp & voltmeter.

I'm fairly certain the factory oil pressure gauges in most vehicles are this way. I know for a fact our Bullnoses' oil pressure gauges are not anywhere close to correct. In my opinion it's only useful for telling if you have oil pressure or if you don't. That's about as far as I would trust it.