HEHE, you have to get in line behind all her friends and coaches and teachers, and...

Thanks

 

It's easy to see why. By the time you get to me you'll have the craft perfected.

 

Got a little done today. Still dont have my correct cam bushing so couldn't complete front gear train. First up, I got the oil cooler/filter housing installed


Not a lot of people use these anymore but I like them, makes installing the plug while compressing the relief valve spring easy


Torqued and completed assy.

 

A few pics so everyone doesn't jump me about it. Building a tab for the KDP


Drill the hole before cutting


All burrs and sharp edges removed



My KDP protrudes a little so a little offset makes for a better fit. Low tech metal fab






Swap ends and hit it again


Presto


Installed


All interior bolts get a dose of this for security

 

Front gear case installed. The bolts around the edge are just snugged. I also forgot to take a pic of the oil pump installed but its in there

 

Installing front crank seal

 

Rear seal installed in retainer and torqued to spec

 

Crap! I forgot to get this broken bolt out before paint so had to be really careful to extract



This put me a little behind so if we dont play softball tomorrow eve Ill try to get the head assembled

 

Comming together nicely. Good decision on the loctite. What ever you do do not forget the loctite on the harmonic damper bolts. Learned the hard way and shredded that $30.00 belt. I honestly would use Loctite on all the bolts you encounter even the oil galley / water galley soft plugs.

It's expensive but when you get to the intake through bolts and injectors I recommend loctite 37397 and primer 37509. I had three injectors leaking from the nozzle hold down nuts. The injector builder used what appeared to be black RTV and did not torque the nuts down properly. I tore them down cleaned everything with a brass brush and acetone. And went back together with that loctite torquing to 30 ft lbs on the nozzle nut. No leaks now. The only downside is you have to let it cure for 3 days before running.

 

Great advice! Ill see if I can locate some of those products. This is one of the wonderful things about this site, prevents a lot of the "hindsight" stuff

 

I have a question for the experienced folks out there. All the swaps I have seen are using the dodge engine, mine is the commercial version and has the 15 qt pan. I want to use this pan if I can because of the larger capacity even if have to modify it a little. Does anyone have experience with this? If I have to modify so much that I loose most of the capacity advantage I would like to know now.
Thanks, Carl

 

Amazon sells them both.



Can you post a picture of the pan, also the front profile like your looking straight at the engine. The dodge pan is 12 quarts I am curious where the extra 3 quarts are in the pan.

 

Ill get a pic this eve. The pan sump is longer, front to rear, than the dodge pan. Part #3915703

 

Looking great! What was the application of your engine? I almost got a school bus that had the 12V, but just missed out on it.

 

Yep, that was it, CPL 1551. '96 model bus, '95 model engine. 190 hp, at least when it was new.