Yes, the hold down bolts are out. There is just no room for leverage between the box and injector. I'm sure a cooler head will prevail in the morning.

Do I have to get under it, or can I pry it from the top? If I take the oil deflector off?

 

Right to left, it's 2, 4, 6, and 8. You guys have a pic of number two orings, but 4 was the same way, and the flat square oring was completely busted. On 6 and 8, the very bottom orings are toast.

Would all of this be a good reason why my mileage has been terrible, along with a terribly running truck?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1422494206

 

Yes and Yes.

You may want to send those out have them tested and remaned. Prices aren't getting any cheaper. That way you'll have 8 on the shelf when you hit 500,000 miles

 

You have a good point! I'll probably send them out to Rosewood, when I get enough saved up. Right now, a new turbo is next on the list.

If I can figure out how to get 5 and 7 out, I'll be home free. I'll start back up in the morning. In the meantime, I'll read up on the start up and getting oil out of the cylinders on the Swamps website. That is the main thing I am dreading. There will be more questions asked tomorrow. Thanks again for all of the advice and input!

 

I sometimes have to use a small pry bar like a Carpenters tool. I think I picked it up a Sears. Only about 5" or 6" and has a 90* at one end. You can slip it under the injector.

Have you removed the Rocker and Push Rods? That frees up some room as well.

 

I'll give that idea a go tomorrow. I hate to take things apart, but I'm sure i can get it back together, with everyone's help.

 

Very simple, just remember to install the push rods and rockers back in their same locations. You will see marks that indicate Intake and exhaust.

I see a lot of videos online where people just start pulling them and tossing them. Makes me cringe.

Everyone wears a little differently because of the way the lobes wear the lifters, the condition of the lifters, and health of the Valve Springs, and Guides.

 

You will have to approach them from the top side at an angle...30-45* and yes you can pry gently on the top, just avoid the electrical connector. I have not tried removing the push rods and rockers trick in the past and have had success even on a cup job, although I am certain it would have made that and the other jobs easier. You'll have less cuts on your hands and fingers at a minimum.

 

Has anyone ever replaced any of the injectors in the past? Some of them look to be newer than others which can create issues and a lack of balance in combustion, so yes. Looks like you got all of the copper washers. Make sure to do the same on the other side.

 

I have a question about injector #4, the one with the square o-ring leaning on it...is there something written/etched on the solenoid? Mine from PIS are etched, indicating the 160/30

 

Do you mean #6, third one from the left....

 

Actually, it is number four. (Second from the right) I had it out last year, because I snapped the hold down bolt off, while torquing the injectors. I was a big dummy, and torqued them all to 120ft lbs. I, along with Jeffreyt cleaned it up a bit, and put new rings on it while it was out.

 

Good eye!! I didn't notice that, but it says MDP 410. Say what? As far as I know, they are the originals.

 

That explains some of the difference.

 

2nd from the right
3rd from the left
it's all the same LOL