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Queston about 48-50 rear fender top shape

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Old 01-27-2015, 08:09 PM
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Queston about 48-50 rear fender top shape

I am in the process of priming and blocking my original rear fenders. It turns out that both fenders have a barely perceptible "valley" on the top of the fenders just outboard of the mounting flange. I started to fill and block this area on one fender and then I noted the same shape on the other fender. Has anyone else noted this? It became apparent when I fogged a guide coat on top of the primer and started to block that area. I suspect that it would show as a slight valley in finish paint if you looked along the top of the fender from behind the fender? Anyone?
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:13 PM
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I have three sets of rear fenders, none have a valley. Don't know what would cause it.
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Skalywag
I have three sets of rear fenders, none have a valley. Don't know what would cause it.

Note that the valley that I am talking about is in the .005 to .010 inches range.
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:39 PM
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No valley in mine either. I did however prep my fenders bolted up to an old bed that I had, don't know if that would make a difference or not.
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:42 PM
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It should not be flat or have any valley, Should have a slight dome both ways..
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:46 PM
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I think I know what you're describing and Yes, mine had it. The rear fender has a low crown down to the mounting flange, creating a small "valley", very small. This is like at 2:00 looking at the driver's rear fender, or 10:00 on the PS?
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tinman52
It should not be flat or have any valley, Should have a slight dome both ways..


That is what I expected. I need to decide weather to fill the slight valley on both or leave both with the slight valley. The way that I am blocking the fenders is to mount the fender to a flat 3/4" plywood backing shaped to the mounting flange and then I have the plywood firmly bolted to one of my engine stands. I do have the plywood held straight front to rear by screwing it to a straight length of 2 x 4 on edge. This setup allows rotating the fender but holds it firm for blocking on the top, front and rear surfaces. I block the "face" of the fender on a flat table.
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:22 PM
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Stampings can vary depending on how worn the dies were at the time or from plant to plant. These were never designed to the level of a Lexus. The area you're describing will be underneath the top bedrail overhang, and will never be seen. Don't lose too much sleep over it. This is coming from Mr. Critical.
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:36 PM
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Yeah, I guess it depends on whether it bothers you or not. Little things like that bug me, but most people would never notice.
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:39 PM
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I would think any bondo along the top right against the bedsides would crack off pretty quick.
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by tinman52
Yeah, I guess it depends on whether it bothers you or not. Little things like that bug me, but most people would never notice.
Trust me, I'm totally on the same page. I always find the smallest of flaws. But sometimes you have to decide what's important and where to concentrate your efforts. Here was some of mine. I've got lots more even better in a book on analog.



 
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:43 AM
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Thank you all for your responses. I suspect as Wayne suggests the dies could have been a bit worn. Although the slight depression may not be common, it seems like I am not the only example. To me the fact that it is the same on both fenders is significant. I am going to ponder it a bit more. I am leaning toward skim coating both in that area. I do share the concern expressed by Ross, however, the skim does not go to the flange edge.
 
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