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Problem - 1994 F150

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Old 01-25-2015, 11:04 PM
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Problem - 1994 F150

So, here we go. I am going to tell you what I have done and had done before I tell you what is wrong. I have a 1994 F150 4.9l 4WD.

I bought the truck for 2k (a steal for a Straight-6 with 202k I thought), but I was wrong. Nothing seemed wrong at the time, but I've had to do a lot of work.

I did and had to do the following: Changed front and back brakes
  1. Replaced front brake calipers
  2. Replaced thermostat
  3. Replaced thermostat housing
  4. Replaced PCV valve (including crankcase beather filter and air filter)
  5. Changed alternator and alternator harnesses
  6. Replaced serpentine belt
  7. Changed oil (previous owner put synthetic in it), oil filter and oil pressure sensor
I had this done:
  1. Replaced upper and lower ball joint
  2. Replaced transmission pan gasket.
That is everything I have done to date. Now, on to my issues. A few days after getting the truck back from the trans pan gasket and ball joint replacement, my truck stalled when I put it in reverse. I immediately checked the transmission fluid (park and neutral) and it is bone dry. It also tries to stall when I put it in drive, but it hasn't yet. From what I have read, this could be due to the fact that the transmission filter fell off. However, it only stalls intermittently and usually only when the truck is warmed up. The battery also drops a little over one volt when shifting to reverse.


My first question is, where did 10 qrts of transmission fluid go in one week? It has been sitting for days since I had the trans pan gasket replaced and there's definitely no trans fluid on the ground.



Second, why is it stalling or almost stalling in reverse? I thought the trans filter fell off, but wouldn't it stall all the time and not intermittently?


I have not put any trans fluid in it yet to check if that is the issue. I wanted to leave it dry so that the shop could see if had no fluid in it (which will be tomorrow).



My second thought after the trans filter was the IAC valve, but the truck idles fine.


Anyone had any ideas why it is stalling? I have already dropped like 900 into the truck for the items listed above, so I don't want to throw parts at it to figure it out.
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:58 AM
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My truck voltage goes down when shifting in reverse too, I heard it needs a new filter and transmission fluid but who has money for 14 quarts of that expensive stuff. I put it to the side for now. I think the IAC valve would affect the way it idles in park not shifting but I am no mechanic.
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 94-Str8Six
So, here we go. I am going to tell you what I have done and had done before I tell you what is wrong. I have a 1994 F150 4.9l 4WD.

I bought the truck for 2k (a steal for a Straight-6 with 202k I thought), but I was wrong. Nothing seemed wrong at the time, but I've had to do a lot of work.

I did and had to do the following: Changed front and back brakes
  1. Replaced front brake calipers
  2. Replaced thermostat
  3. Replaced thermostat housing
  4. Replaced PCV valve (including crankcase beather filter and air filter)
  5. Changed alternator and alternator harnesses
  6. Replaced serpentine belt
  7. Changed oil (previous owner put synthetic in it), oil filter and oil pressure sensor
I had this done:
  1. Replaced upper and lower ball joint
  2. Replaced transmission pan gasket.
That is everything I have done to date. Now, on to my issues. A few days after getting the truck back from the trans pan gasket and ball joint replacement, my truck stalled when I put it in reverse. I immediately checked the transmission fluid (park and neutral) and it is bone dry. It also tries to stall when I put it in drive, but it hasn't yet. From what I have read, this could be due to the fact that the transmission filter fell off. However, it only stalls intermittently and usually only when the truck is warmed up. The battery also drops a little over one volt when shifting to reverse.


My first question is, where did 10 qrts of transmission fluid go in one week? It has been sitting for days since I had the trans pan gasket replaced and there's definitely no trans fluid on the ground.



Second, why is it stalling or almost stalling in reverse? I thought the trans filter fell off, but wouldn't it stall all the time and not intermittently?


I have not put any trans fluid in it yet to check if that is the issue. I wanted to leave it dry so that the shop could see if had no fluid in it (which will be tomorrow).



My second thought after the trans filter was the IAC valve, but the truck idles fine.


Anyone had any ideas why it is stalling? I have already dropped like 900 into the truck for the items listed above, so I don't want to throw parts at it to figure it out.
1. Not sure where your fluid went. If it ain't on the ground then it probably either blew back all along the undercarriage or it was never there in the first place (didn't get it full after servicing the trans).

2. With the E4OD, low fluid = engine stall. That's why when your filter falls off it will try and stall then too. Because without the filter the trans can't draw enough fluid up from the pan, just like if the level was actually low.

3. That list of things you did to her really ain't that much. It's mostly basic maintenance and I'd say you got a pretty good deal if the body's in good shape!

4. Your low voltage condition happens when the engine is fixin' to stall because the RPM's go way down. At such a low RPM, the alternator can't provide enough output to charge the battery AND power the truck's electrical load, so you see the voltage drop down to whatever the battery is at.

Originally Posted by copen93
My truck voltage goes down when shifting in reverse too, I heard it needs a new filter and transmission fluid but who has money for 14 quarts of that expensive stuff. I put it to the side for now. I think the IAC valve would affect the way it idles in park not shifting but I am no mechanic.
See #4 above, that's why you have low voltage.
 
  #4  
Old 01-26-2015, 07:01 AM
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It did not evaporate LOL. It either leaked or was never put in their in the first place.
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ponykilr
It did not evaporate LOL. It either leaked or was never put in their in the first place.
That's my thought...it was never put back in.
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dixie460
1. Not sure where your fluid went. If it ain't on the ground then it probably either blew back all along the undercarriage or it was never there in the first place (didn't get it full after servicing the trans).

2. With the E4OD, low fluid = engine stall. That's why when your filter falls off it will try and stall then too. Because without the filter the trans can't draw enough fluid up from the pan, just like if the level was actually low.

3. That list of things you did to her really ain't that much. It's mostly basic maintenance and I'd say you got a pretty good deal if the body's in good shape!

4. Your low voltage condition happens when the engine is fixin' to stall because the RPM's go way down. At such a low RPM, the alternator can't provide enough output to charge the battery AND power the truck's electrical load, so you see the voltage drop down to whatever the battery is at.



See #4 above, that's why you have low voltage.
Thanks. Yeah, I knew all I mentioned was basic maintenance, but I wanted to mention everything possible. Less information could equal miss diagnosis.

As for the missing fluid, my brother-in-law was at the shop after they changed out the pan gasket and he swears he watched them put all 10 qrts I bought in the truck. But, I am with you all. It doesn't just evaporate! And, it isn't on the ground. So, I don't know what the hell is going on.

Either way, I am taking it back to the shop for them to take a look. I'm not putting any trans fluid in it so that they can see it is empty.

Thanks for the input!
 
  #7  
Old 01-26-2015, 01:08 PM
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NO! Don't drive it to the shop low on fluid. If the pump can't get enough fluid then you'll start losing line pressure which means the clutch packs/bands will start slipping. Pretty soon that will cook whatever fluid is left and you'll be looking at a rebuild.

Also, did you drain the converter when the trans was serviced? If so then 10 qts ain't enough. It's around 16 qts total to refill the converter and pan.
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dixie460
NO! Don't drive it to the shop low on fluid. If the pump can't get enough fluid then you'll start losing line pressure which means the clutch packs/bands will start slipping. Pretty soon that will cook whatever fluid is left and you'll be looking at a rebuild.

Also, did you drain the converter when the trans was serviced? If so then 10 qts ain't enough. It's around 16 qts total to refill the converter and pan.
You know what, I am pretty sure they did drain the convertor. If they did drain the converter and we only put 10 qts in it, would it not register on the dip stick?

16 qts though? I was told from autozone 10 total
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 01:54 PM
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not to be stupid hear but I'm talkin from experience make sure NONE of that transmission fluid made its way in to the engine
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by carguy94
not to be stupid hear but I'm talkin from experience make sure NONE of that transmission fluid made its way in to the engine
Oil level and consistency is still good.

I might sound stupid here, but how else would I check that.
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:59 PM
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I don't mean to waste your time as it should be very hard to mistake were your putting the fluid but just a quick thought. have you checked the level with the engine off if the converter has never been replaced then most likely you might get a reading on the dip stick unless its really under filled.
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by carguy94
I don't mean to waste your time as it should be very hard to mistake were your putting the fluid but just a quick thought. have you checked the level with the engine off if the converter has never been replaced then most likely you might get a reading on the dip stick unless its really under filled.
No, I have only checked it running in Park and Neutral. I did find about from a post above and by calling NAPA that I am about 6 qts low. I only put 10 qts in it.
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:08 PM
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Yep, just over 16 quarts is what it takes to fill the pan, hydraulics, converter, coolers, and lines.
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dixie460
Yep, just over 16 quarts is what it takes to fill the pan, hydraulics, converter, coolers, and lines.
Thanks again for your insight. Last question, I swear! I saw your response about not driving it, but how much damage could it have done off 10 qts instead of 16 qts over 3 days of driving it? It took about 3 days before I noticed anything wrong.
 
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Old 01-30-2015, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dixie460
Yep, just over 16 quarts is what it takes to fill the pan, hydraulics, converter, coolers, and lines.
Thanks agin dixie460. Adding 6 qts of trans fluid raised the fluid to full and stopped the stalling. Well, for two days anyway. The dipstick is still full, but I have a new problem.

The truck now went back to shifting real hard in to reverse. It's not stalling, but this one has me stumped. I can't figure it out. All other gears shift and engage normally.

Sorry if the video quality is bad. If too bad, I will take it during the day tomorrow.

Ps, don't worry about the oil gauge. Faulty sensor.

<a href="http://youtu.be/jL2PLE3BBC0">Youtube Link </a>
 


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