Here's my soon to be favorite project!!
#1
Here's my soon to be favorite project!!
1999 F-350 7.3L Power Stroke 6Spd Zf6 tranny reg cab. 2wd Dual RW. 402k miles and a Sears box on the back. soon I'm gonna find a bed to fit it.
Any suggestions on performance upgrades to do immediately and cheaply? Also any Pre-maintenance i should do to it before i turn her into my daily?
Any suggestions on performance upgrades to do immediately and cheaply? Also any Pre-maintenance i should do to it before i turn her into my daily?
#2
Change all fluids and filters. Oil, fuel, ATF in the tranny (yes ATF in the ZF-6 - add a touch of synchromesh if you want). Probably a good idea to flush the ATF in the power steering fluid and flush the brake fluid for good measure.
Test the coolant with SCA strips if it's green coolant and use additive according to the test results.
Inspect the air filter box lid and tube going back to the turbo for any signs of dirt or dust bypassing the filter and heading back into the engine. Snug up the hose clamps on the 6 boots on the CAC tubes and spider.
Upgrades to the intake is a good place to start and then a custom chip from your favorite tuner will give the truck more noticeable power.
Test the coolant with SCA strips if it's green coolant and use additive according to the test results.
Inspect the air filter box lid and tube going back to the turbo for any signs of dirt or dust bypassing the filter and heading back into the engine. Snug up the hose clamps on the 6 boots on the CAC tubes and spider.
Upgrades to the intake is a good place to start and then a custom chip from your favorite tuner will give the truck more noticeable power.
#4
First diesel, eh? When I started up, I went to a small class at the stealership, and the first thing they taught was clean air, clean oil, and clean fuel - and plenty of 'em. Everything I've learned since then backs this up. Cutting corners with your fluids and air comes back at you far worse than with a gasser. This is a turbodiesel, and dirty air spells doom for the turbo. Dirty oil is like running sand through your very expensive injectors (they are oil powered). Dirty fuel will clog the nozzles on those same injectors - permanently. When changing filters, don't go cheap here either. OEM fuel filter (it has a water-blocking membrane) and OEM-quality filters everywhere else. The forum can guide you on these to save money.
Maintain those key elements (including their quantities), and the 7.3L will forgive most everything else you do to it.
Maintain those key elements (including their quantities), and the 7.3L will forgive most everything else you do to it.
#6
I recently bought my first diesel as well, although it is a 2000 F-250 7.3. After my experience, I would recommend the following.
- Replace all fluids including differentials, power steering, transmission, etc...
- Replace all filters with OEM quality
- Look into a nice air intake. I went with the AIS because it looks stock, provides very clean air and is proven to flow very well. Rock Auto has a great price.
- Inspect your IC/plenum boots and replace them if they appear worn/leaking
- Flush the coolant and install some red ELC
- Check all suspension bushings/joints. I had to replace my sway bar end links
- Test everything mechanically and make sure everything works as it should
- Check your 7 way trailer plug, mine was corroded and needed to be replaced.
- Get some Simple Green and a low pressure hose and clean the engine bay ASAP
- Replace all fluids including differentials, power steering, transmission, etc...
- Replace all filters with OEM quality
- Look into a nice air intake. I went with the AIS because it looks stock, provides very clean air and is proven to flow very well. Rock Auto has a great price.
- Inspect your IC/plenum boots and replace them if they appear worn/leaking
- Flush the coolant and install some red ELC
- Check all suspension bushings/joints. I had to replace my sway bar end links
- Test everything mechanically and make sure everything works as it should
- Check your 7 way trailer plug, mine was corroded and needed to be replaced.
- Get some Simple Green and a low pressure hose and clean the engine bay ASAP
#7
Thanks for the reply!
I will definitely do what you suggested. Also what is the difference between coolant types?? is there a specific kind i should get i drive a bit on the heavy side when it comes to acceleration and speeds. (Never received a ticket though!!)
i will be posting pics of my soon to come restoring of the box to a bed. If anyone knows a good way to remove the box without damaging it (it will be reused or resold) I was looking at the main connecting points and it almost seems to be welded strait to the frame. I couldn't locate and mounting bolts due to the weather (white death) and the time of day. please if you have any information relevant to the removal or installation process i would love to read it!!
I will definitely do what you suggested. Also what is the difference between coolant types?? is there a specific kind i should get i drive a bit on the heavy side when it comes to acceleration and speeds. (Never received a ticket though!!)
i will be posting pics of my soon to come restoring of the box to a bed. If anyone knows a good way to remove the box without damaging it (it will be reused or resold) I was looking at the main connecting points and it almost seems to be welded strait to the frame. I couldn't locate and mounting bolts due to the weather (white death) and the time of day. please if you have any information relevant to the removal or installation process i would love to read it!!
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#8
#10
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
Which reminds me. Here's a great link for you to check out on maintenance and modifications for these trucks. Welcome to guzzle's Ford PSD Web Pages
#11
Congrats on the new truck and welcome to FTE!! It looks like you have a Early99 by the badges on the fenders. But check the build date in the door jam and then do searches on the E99 and read all you can so you know what you are dealing with. And as all the other guys have said where to start and what to do for starters. Also make sure your air filter box lid is sealing closed if not you will suck in dirt in the turbo. The stock E99 air box is junk and known for not sealing. And if you don't have the money for a new air filter set up you could do as I did and that was drill a holes in the edges and wire tie the lid closed until you can get a new filter.
#12
Here is the AIS i had planned on getting
Injen® - Ford F-350 1999-2001 PF Series Diesel Air Intake System
Here is the Intake
aFe® 46-10031 - Ford F-350 1999-2002 BladeRunner Intake Manifold
i will check the Badge tomorrow and let you guys know!
Injen® - Ford F-350 1999-2001 PF Series Diesel Air Intake System
Here is the Intake
aFe® 46-10031 - Ford F-350 1999-2002 BladeRunner Intake Manifold
i will check the Badge tomorrow and let you guys know!
#13
The AIS is 2 thumbs up, but the AFE intake will net you absolutely nothing. Use that money for something else. Tunes controlled by a T6 or DP Tuner is far more bang for the buck.
But I'd leave any performance stuff til after the maintenance is caught up. Some things tend to wear out over the years and miles and should at least be checked. Another good read is the Failure Prevention Thread. Gotta do the Hutch and Harpoon mods. Check the harness where it drapes over the driver side valve cover for chafing, can lead to shorts. Power steering line can rub on the driver side shock tower and leak, some strategically placed chunks of split hose will help. In the pic I see the around-the-serp radiator hose is already installed. Actually I really like the look of that engine; it has that hose so somebody who knew about these trucks cared for it, and all the dirt proves it did not break down and require repairs.This thing has a lot left to give. Interior looks decent too.
And suspension, check the ball joints and hubs. O heck, there's plenty to do, just take your time and prioritize the issues as they crop up.
What kind of bed do you want?
But I'd leave any performance stuff til after the maintenance is caught up. Some things tend to wear out over the years and miles and should at least be checked. Another good read is the Failure Prevention Thread. Gotta do the Hutch and Harpoon mods. Check the harness where it drapes over the driver side valve cover for chafing, can lead to shorts. Power steering line can rub on the driver side shock tower and leak, some strategically placed chunks of split hose will help. In the pic I see the around-the-serp radiator hose is already installed. Actually I really like the look of that engine; it has that hose so somebody who knew about these trucks cared for it, and all the dirt proves it did not break down and require repairs.This thing has a lot left to give. Interior looks decent too.
And suspension, check the ball joints and hubs. O heck, there's plenty to do, just take your time and prioritize the issues as they crop up.
What kind of bed do you want?
#14
Preferably I'm looking for a fully loaded bed with tailgate and taillights, bumper, etc. all in tact. color doesn't matter. i need a dually bed obviously and one that with fit the standard cab (if that combo exist without fabrication.)
i took a look at the thread you suggested very helpful!
and as far as the mods already done to the coolant system i have not a clue who did it or when it was done.
everything like i saind is all new to me so if ya'll have any beginners suggestions i'm all ears
i took a look at the thread you suggested very helpful!
and as far as the mods already done to the coolant system i have not a clue who did it or when it was done.
everything like i saind is all new to me so if ya'll have any beginners suggestions i'm all ears
#15