This is going to be a long post because I'm not sure what's going on here, so I'm just going to give the whole story on this truck.

My Dad got me a 98 ranger about 3 years ago with about 137,000 miles on it. It was a bit of a strange deal, but we got it for 2800. It had just had a lot of body work, done, and the guy was selling it for his nephew. Anyway, we changed all the fluids, put on new rubber parts, new plugs and plug wires, and fixed a few misc. Items. About a year later, it starting throwing misfire codes. That turned out to be cracked heads. I ordered some new ones from a company in Virginia that makes upgraded castings. It ran just fine fine for about a year after that. I also at one point changed the front hubs over to manual lockers because I was out in a field in the snow and my front hubs didn't lock and it took a while to get it out. Anyway, in September, it decided not to start for me sitting in a level parking lot. I posted a thread here about it, and on some advice from that, I replaced the fuel pump. That seemed to give it a lot more power, but it was still having the starting issue. It turned out my battery was bad, and my friend and I think it was the obdii reader I got, so I started leaving that out of the obdii port. I also got some contact cleaner and cleaned a lot of connectors. After all of that, the problem seemed to go away. It started easy every time until right after Christmas. It was a cold day, and it was sitting pointing down hill on our steep driveway, and it wouldn't start. We used my Dad's truck to push it to a level spot and then I beat the tank some with a hammer. We thought it was low enough on fuel that some ice may have formed on the fuel pick-up. It did start, and seemed to be fine after adding some heet to the tank and filling it up. That was leaving on a 320 mile trip one way. Its been starting fine, but I was getting terrible mileage on the way back. I usually get about 16-18MPG highway. Coming back, I got 11. Flash forward to today. I went to start it and it just sat and cranked again. Wouldn't start. Its about 50 degrees out with the front pointed up hill and half a tank of fuel. My friend and I rocked it and I beat on the tank some. Still wouldn't start. Then, after letting it sit a minute, it started no problem. Fuel pressure is good. I checked that. 40lbs with 2 turns of the key (I had dropped it to 0 when I put the gauge on, so I assume that's why it took 2 turns instead of 1), so that's not it. I'm at a loss as to where to look for this starting problem. Any suggestions?

tl;dr. 98 Ranger won't start consistently. Sits and cranks, but won't start every time

 

I see you don't have any replies yet, so I'll see if I can get things started.
Takes air, fuel, spark & compression to make em run, so your missing one or more of those when it won't start.
We can use an inductive timing light to safely check for spark.
40psi fuel pressure is Low. For a 98, we need 64 +/- 8psi, so your 40psi reading is plenty low. Low operating voltage to the fuel pump, acting out fuel pressure regulator, pump motor getting wimpy, clogged fuel filter, crimped fuel line, belong on your suspect list.
Post All trouble code Numbers a computer trouble code scan turns up, in case you have more than one recurring problem.
If your scan tool is an ELM type, they remain on after the key is off & run the battery down, unless you add an off switch to it, or unplug it from the DLC as you've done.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how your trouble shoot goes.

 

Thanks for the reply. Mine is an ELM device. My friend and I measured with a DMM. The current draw with the key off and dongle removed is about half of what it is with the dongle in. The battery hasn't drained since removing it.

I'm sorry I wasn't really clear on my fuel pressure. Its at about 40 psi when I turn the key on with the engine off. Once the engine is running, the pressure jumps up to a little over 60 psi and stays there. I haven't gotten to put a new fuel filter on it yet. I can't seem to get the old one off. I have an aluminum quick disconnect tool, but it seems to be too big. I need to get a different one.

One other thing I forgot to mention is that lately I've noticed that when I turn the steering wheel while sitting still, the engine tries to die. It hasn't actually died, but it runs really rough until I either rev it or take the load away. It still seems to have power to accelerate, though. Not sure why that would me.

I'll see if I can drum up a timing light. I don't have one here. I may be able to do it with an oscilloscope and a bit of spare wire, though. Also, I will have to wait until it doesn't want to start again. That part doesn't seem to be repeatable, which is part of what is making this so difficult to track down.

 

OK, good trouble shooting & feedback on the idle speed acting out when you turn the steering wheel. I'd add the IAC = Idle Air Control to your suspect list, as if its acting out & not responding to increased engine load, like when the power steering pump adds load, or when the A/C turns on, or when we put an auto tranny in gear, ect, the engine can stumble, or stall. It's located on the air tube, drivers side, downstream of the airbox, just in front of the throttle body. Remove & inspect it for deposits & if dirty you might try cleaning it internally with a non residual, plastic safe spray cleaner, like CRC, or Valvolene MAF spray cleaner. Keep the electrical connector end elevated so that the cleaner won't run into the solenoid windings on that end & cause mischief with its insulation. Cleaning the IAC might not last, it didn't for me on my 99 & is probably why Ford doesn't recommend cleaning it, but cleaning was a good trouble shooting step for me.

Good feedback on the fuel pressure too. You still should have more than 40psi at KOEO. So back probe with your DMM on both sides of the in cabin inertia switch for under load voltage drop to it, or across its internal contacts, when the fuel pump runs for a couple of seconds at KOEO. If voltage drop is ok, but you have to cycle the ignition a couple of times to get fuel pressured up to spec, suspect a clogged fuel filter, fuel pump going out, or an electrical wiring, or connector problem in the run to the fuel pump.
If you measure voltage drop into the inertia switch, suspect the fuel pump power relay, located under hood in the power distribution box. Try swapping it for a known good relay not needed to run the engine, like the A/C power relay & see if it brings joy & let us know what you find.
EDIT: If you measure under load voltage drop across the inertia switch at KOEO, try thumping the switch to trip it & have its internal contacts reset into a new position & remeasure under load voltage drop through it when you recycle the ignition switch. There have been a few reports of faulty inertia switches & as I remember Ford has a recall out for a couple of model years, but I don't have the info at hand. As I remember its been posted on this forum a few years ago, so a search might turn it up if you need the recall number for the model years.

 

The IAC is not that old. I replaced it about a year and a half ago (right after the new heads) because it was having a little trouble idling. Its idled a bit high since we bought it. Anyway, I drove it some today with no major issues. One possibly related note, though, is another intermittent issue I have. Sometimes I get a really strong fuel smell in the cabin. It doesn't happen often, and the smell leaves as soon as it appears usually. I have no idea where the smell is from. Its worse on the passenger side, and I can't smell it outside the truck. Its only in the cab. I know that doesn't make sense. This time I even raised the hood. No smell there. Nothing around the tank cap. nothing near the back. Just a really strong smell on the passenger side for a few minutes. The fill relief line is bad. I haven't found anywhere that sells the 3/4" hose required to replace it, but it doesn't seem to be where the smell came from. If anyone knows where to get the hose, I would really appreciate that. I've asked everywhere I can think of and no one has it.

 

Finally got around to looking at it again receiently. After finding some people describing a similar problem to mine, I replaced the whole assembly in the fuel tank. If the pressure regulator is worn out, you won't get high enough fuel pressure to start. I had 45 psi or less at the fuel rail trying to start the motor. Now, the rail is a 62 lbs when I turn the key a few times. Also, when opening the throttle body, the fuel pressure recovers immidately where it would take a few seconds before, so I believe I did have a bad fuel pressure regulator. That being said, my fuel pressure gauge says I'm loosing pressure right after I turn the engine off. I went to take the gauge off less than 5 minutes after I shut off the engine, and I had dropped from 65 lbs to about 20 lbs. It has a brand new fuel pump assembly and a new fuel filter, so the only major part I haven't replaced yet is the fuel pressure damper. When I take the vacuum line off the damper, it has the smell of gas, but I don't see/feel any coming out physically. I'm not sure where to check for my pressure leak next? Damper? Maybe I have a leaking injector? There are no codes. I will pull plugs this weekend and see if any of them look darker than they should.

 

Sounds like you have a good grip on your trouble shoot. You might try plugging the line at the fuel damper & see if that makes any difference.
In cabin fuel aromas have been traced to a vacuum manifold control line leak. It's the ganged line connection midway atop the firewall as I remember a forum poster recently saying.
Also vapor recovery system vacuum leaks are known to cause in cabin fuel smells. More thoughts for pondering, let us know what you find.

 

I know this thread's a little old now, but the problem just got a lot worse. I've been moved to Florida for the summer (for work), and it's gotten really hard to start if its been off for a while and sitting in the sun. This weekend, I was driving back from a visit to a museum, and I stopped at a light with the AC running, and the engine died on its own. Fortunately it restarted, and didn't do it again with the AC off. Its also lost a lot of power and seems to stall at higher rpm's. I had to take it to a mechanic for a new clutch last week. They couldn't get it to start and put a new coil pack on before they asked me about it. They claim it had no spark, and they knew it because a shot of either did nothing. I had the same problem this weekend. It started right up on a shot of carb-cleaner, so I'm really thinking this is fuel related. I'm putting new o-rings on the injectors right now, and a new fuel rail gasket on. I also put on a new pressure damper about a month ago. My injectors are all reading 16 ohms. I've read they should read 12. Should I replace them while its apart? Also, I haven't seen any signs of fuel leaking past the o-rings. They are the last part to be replaced in the system except the rail itself and the hardlines. Anywhere else I should start looking for my leak? I used an airtex pump when I put a new one in a few months ago. Should I get a higher quality one?

 

Hold off throwing parts at this puppy, because you or the garage didn't offer up any trouble shooting test evidence of faulty parts yet!!!!
Did you ever figure out why fuel pressure was draining off so quickly in your #6 post,???? Could be leaky fuel injectors with a runny nose for example.
Have you scanned the computer with your ELM scantool for pending, or set trouble code clues, if so, post up All code Numbers????

 

I never figured out my pressure leak. I think whatever was leaking slowly is now leaking a lot worse that it was. The problem is, I still don't see a leak. That's why I'm doing injector seals and fuel rail seal. It got new heads 2 years ago, so I thought maybe a seal got damaged then from moving the injectors and finally gave way this weekend. Now that its apart, though, I don't see the signs of a leak there, so I'm not so sure that's it. The injector seals are bad, though. Hard as a rock, and the top on on the bottom set is shot on all of them. When I scanned for codes last time, nothing came up. I haven't gotten to do it this weekend. I have no CEL or anything yet, just a constant faint gas smell from under the hood.

 

Are you cleaning the fuel injectors & having them tested while you have everything apart??? the replacement fuel pump/regulator assy also belongs on the suspect list for the fuel pressure bleed off. Just because its new, doesn't automatically earn it a pass.
Did your spark plug read yield any clues????
My manual shows the fuel injector resistance range to be 12-16 ohms & all should read the same, or close & close isn't defined!!!! lol

 

I was going to clean the injectors while they're out, but two I got out last night already look clean. There's a little carbon on the plastic tip, but the spay nozzles are clean and shiny. I'm not sure how to bench test them. I will if I can find a procedure. All the resistances are within a few hundreths of an ohm, which is close enough for this electrical engineer. When I took the plugs out a few months ago, they all looked fine. In fact, they all looked like the engine was running a little lean (more white than tan), but overall good. I was thinking the pump too. Two reasons its not on my immediate suspect list are 1) th pressure bleed what there before and after (and has been for 2 new pumps now), and 2)the faint gas smell at the block which is stronger when the engine won't start. I could have a few problems, though. Edit: Think I found it. While cleaning the injectors, I filled them all with injector cleaner. In one case, the cleaner ran out the bottom. I think I found my leak. Should I replace them all? Also, what brands should I look at/avoid?

 

Ahhhh an injector with a runny nose. You might try dis-assembling it to see if the problem is obvious, like a piece of junk causing the pentil not to seat & cleaning it in a good quality carb cleaner.
I'm not familiar with various mfgrs fuel injector quality but bet a number of the forum guys are & will chime in. If no takers, stick with Motorcraft, they do have to meet Fords specs. Just be sure to measure the new ones resistance Before leaving the store, to make sure its ok & matches the resistance range of the others. Same if you replace all of the injectors, make sure they All read the same resistance & the range is between 12-16 ohms.
Did you ever replace the fuel filter & get the fuel tank fill tubing fixed or replaced??? The vapor recovery system needs to be tight for it to work right & that can affect starts, as will low fuel pressure.

 

The good thing is Oriley's sells motorcraft injectors, and will have one for me this evening. I'm going to try just one injector for now since they are almost $70 a piece. I'm not sure how to disassemble/clean them, and with $160K on them, I think replacement might be the better option. I did replace the fuel filter a few months ago, and as far as I know, the vapor recovery system is fine. It doesn't seem to be leaking anyway. No fuel smell from it and no visible breaks. The vent line of my fill neck is broken, so if anyone knows where to get 3/4" fuel line, please let me know. I've tried every auto parts store, the dealer, and the internet. I can find it bigger and smaller, but not the right size. The closest thing I've found is hydraulic hose, and I don't want to spend the money on that if I can get out of it.

 

The fill tubing Is part of the vapor recovery system. The system applies a slight negative pressure to the tank so that the vapors are always wanting to migrate toward the charcoal storage canister, to be used on starts to quickly get us going. As those fuel vapors are in a gas state & ready for combustion, they make for easier/quicker cold starts.
If the tank, gas cap, lines, tubing are loose fitting, cracked, missing not performing right, like a gas cap that won't vent, or who's seal is damaged, or a loose or damaged fill tubing, they'll corrupt the calibration of the whole vapor recovery system. If that fill tubing is loose or missing, it'll cause what amounts to a small vacuum leak & muck up the vapor recovery system being able to properly purge & store tank fumes, its all a vicious circle.