I have a 2003 f250 super duty with the 6.0 that has not ran for over a year. short run down on how it started. the wife drove it to work ran perfect came home and parked it and the next morning i went to start it and it was like it was running on 4cyl? i shut it off then tried again and nothing but cranking. 3 different diesel mechanics have tried to fix it. here is the list of stuff changed in the process of trying to get it back on the road. (sorry for the long post)

1. HPOP w/ feed line and discharge tube and o-rings
2 egr delete
3 new oil cooler
4 icp sensor w/ pigtail
5 ipr valve
6 intake gaskets
7 two new batteries
8 alternator
9 blue spring fuel reg. kit with housing
10 banjo bolts for the heads
11 new FICM with atlas 80 tune
12 exhaust back pressure valve and tube cleaned and checked
13 complete fuel pump asy. with wire harness
14 new ford fuel filters
15 new ford oil filter w/ new ford cap
16 new t6 oil
17 new fuel plus some diesel clean added to it
18 map sensor port cleaned on intake port
19 masair flow sensor cleaned
20 crank sensor
21 fuel return tube kit replaced
22 all new coolant
23 updated coolant cap and tank
24 tank dropped and checked and new fuel put in

the last diesel mechanic gave up on it this week. he says he tried a new computer and new ficm and checked the whole engine and injector harness and grounds and said they was fine. he said every thing else tested good with the pressures and readings but said the injector buzz sounded weak, so he put some low mile reman injectors in and said the truck ran good. he said he let it idle for 30 min. then drove it 10 miles and said it started dropping one injector after another then it died and just cranks again. he says it's frying the injector solenoids? says he nor any of the other diesel shops he knows have have ever seen this before. the truck only has 165,xxx miles and ran perfect before this.

so if anyone has ever ran into this problem before please let me know what you did to fix it. im getting sick of dumping money in this truck and not being able to use it. like i said down for over a year, i have put less than 200 miles on this truck from the day i bought it.
if you want you can mess. me on here or email me at fordboykevin@yahoo.com thanks.

 

Other than a short somewhere, I cant imagine, but you may get a better response in the 6.0 forum.

Good luck to you. After putting that kind of money in it I am sure its heartbreaking for it to not be running.

 

I have tried a couple 6.0 only pages over the last few months, nobody seems to know anything about this problem, most people tell me they have never ran across this problem before. i am about to the point of parting it out or put it up for sale like it sits, only problem with that is i would be out a ton of money. i just keep holding on hoping i run across the right person that's already dealt with this problem before and can point me in the right direction.

 

Maybe a mod could move this to the 6.0 forum. Sound's like some expert advice is in order on this one.

 

Definitely ask this in the 6.0 forum.
Did they completely replace the ficm? Or just a rebuild of your old one? Somtimes both halves fail.

 

the FICM was just replaced with a brand new one right before i bought the truck, that's what i was thinking when it first happened so i shipped it to ED STEFAN at ficm repair and he went through it and tested everything and even ran it in his shop test truck everything was perfect with it, so i just had him ad the atlas 80 tune to it while he had it so im 110% sure its not the ficm, wish it was it would be an easy fix

*****I just moved this over to the 6.0 section, sorry i didn't see that section when i posted this. this thread can be deleted thanks*****

 

Hey Kevin -

I just posted this over in the other thread as well, but...

is it possible that your mechanic was right about the injectors, but then in his install killed the logic board in the FICM?

This happens pretty regularly when folks don't use the remote starter engagement wire on the passenger side fender well and instead elect to purge the air out of the system by turning the engine over with the key - essentially cranking and cranking and cranking until it starts. This practice is:

1. Common
2. Wrong
3. Murder on the FICM

Of course, many a starter has been killed this way as well (by not taking a break during cranking), but the bigger and less thought about issue is the lower supply side voltage to the FICM during all of this cranking.

By using the remote starter engagement wire, no power is sent to the FICM at all while all the air comes out.

I'd suggest sending the FICM back over for a 2nd health check. It'd be pretty awesome if that was the entire issue at this point, heh?

 

Sounds like a possible fuel problem to me.

I would drain the tank, drain the fuel bowl, blow out the lines if possible, the whole bit, add some new diesel and try it again.

Possibly the fuel is bad enough that it is ruining the injectors?

 

Moved to 6.0 forum.

 

You need to get a scan gauge, torque pro, or dash boss hooked up (something to read pids/live data) so we can help get started on a diagnosis.

2006 F350 4X4

 

Welcome to the 6.0 forum. Take a deep breath. Put down the gas can, lighter and watch the magic happen. The guys and gals here will get you to the root cause and running shortly.

 

You need a gauge to read live data and be able to scan for DTC

That's quit the list of crap you had changed looks like they were part changers

Get a gauge going let's get some crank values and see what missing

 

There usually not that hard to figure what's missing

It's just a chain of events and one bad sensor read will lead to no start

 

I thought I had seen this post before he posted earlier and the thread fell off the board.
Cheesit I and several others replied. His mechanics may have been good general diesel mechanics but not 6.0 mechanics otherwise he would have been given some actual values to post.

No idea what actual tests were run or the results without that info not much we can do.

 

The cheapest OBDII gauge set you can get is if you already have an Android phone/tablet with bluetooth. The "Torque Pro" app and a $25 bluetooth OBDII adapter (from amazon prime) will probably enable you to give the folks on this forum the proper information from your truck's sensors to diagnose the problem. Folks like BLADE35, Ed, superdutyservice, and more on here are experts on these trucks - and they give free advice that's worth much more than the price!