Thinking about buying a Bronco...
#1
Thinking about buying a Bronco...
Hey guys,
I'm usually over in the 80-86 Pickup Truck forum, but I wanted to get the advice of all you season veterans of early Broncos!!
I'm thinking about buying an early Bronco, with the wife permitting of course, and I'm curious on what I should know when buying one?
The plan is to pickup one that is pretty much already done and ready to go. I'm willing to spend the big bucks to make sure I don't buy someone else's project. We're talking in the 20k and up range. The reason why I don't want to focus a lot of effort on restoring it is because a family member is going to be moving away here soon, and they'll be taking with them their two post lift, and enough tools to feed a dealership. When it comes to mechanical stuff, i'm fine with, but if it's rust repair/bodywork...i'm in the dark and don't know what to do. So I don't want to spend a lot of time fixing someone else's f'up. I know it can happen, even when you think you've done a good job checking everything over, but I just want to make sure I know what to be on the lookout for, and what someone would usually charge for something that's in pretty decent shape?
My questions are:
1. What should I look for when buying a Bronco, i.e. issue with wheel bearings for example, or something kind of like that?
2. Anything in particular to look out for?
3. Where do these trucks usually rust out at?
4. Any other areas I should be aware of?
5. Where to look for vin numbers (if any) and how to check if it hasn't been some hobbed up, booger welded pos?
Thanks guys!!
I'm usually over in the 80-86 Pickup Truck forum, but I wanted to get the advice of all you season veterans of early Broncos!!
I'm thinking about buying an early Bronco, with the wife permitting of course, and I'm curious on what I should know when buying one?
The plan is to pickup one that is pretty much already done and ready to go. I'm willing to spend the big bucks to make sure I don't buy someone else's project. We're talking in the 20k and up range. The reason why I don't want to focus a lot of effort on restoring it is because a family member is going to be moving away here soon, and they'll be taking with them their two post lift, and enough tools to feed a dealership. When it comes to mechanical stuff, i'm fine with, but if it's rust repair/bodywork...i'm in the dark and don't know what to do. So I don't want to spend a lot of time fixing someone else's f'up. I know it can happen, even when you think you've done a good job checking everything over, but I just want to make sure I know what to be on the lookout for, and what someone would usually charge for something that's in pretty decent shape?
My questions are:
1. What should I look for when buying a Bronco, i.e. issue with wheel bearings for example, or something kind of like that?
2. Anything in particular to look out for?
3. Where do these trucks usually rust out at?
4. Any other areas I should be aware of?
5. Where to look for vin numbers (if any) and how to check if it hasn't been some hobbed up, booger welded pos?
Thanks guys!!
#2
They rust pretty much everywhere. Rockers, body sides above the rear fenders and behind the front wheels are probably the worst areas. That's the biggest issue to look for.
Other than that, they are 38 - 49 year old trucks, they've had a lot of time to wear out and be worked on. Look for wiring problems (cracked old wires or cobbled together repairs). Hoses. Seals. The typical stuff.
They can handle very... interestingly with worn out bushings in the front end. Replacing the rubber with urethane stiffens up the handling, but also stiffens up the articulation (stock Bronco front end does NOT flex).
There were a lot of changes through the '66 - '77 run (and many more possible since '77). Power disk brakes are a lot better than manual drums. The early Dana 30 axle was later replaced with a Dana 44. Power steering came late. So a later model or one that's been upgraded is a big plus.
They don't make 'em like they used to, and when it comes to the old carbs and breaker point ignitions that's a GOOD thing. You can get the old stuff working well (and with some continued effort you can keep it working well). But and upgrade to an electronic ignition system is a good thing, and EFI wouldn't be a bad addition either.
Broncos aren't cheap either. People can want some really big bucks for some real rust buckets, and they can often get it. For $20,000 you ought to be able to find something pretty decent though. Good luck!
Other than that, they are 38 - 49 year old trucks, they've had a lot of time to wear out and be worked on. Look for wiring problems (cracked old wires or cobbled together repairs). Hoses. Seals. The typical stuff.
They can handle very... interestingly with worn out bushings in the front end. Replacing the rubber with urethane stiffens up the handling, but also stiffens up the articulation (stock Bronco front end does NOT flex).
There were a lot of changes through the '66 - '77 run (and many more possible since '77). Power disk brakes are a lot better than manual drums. The early Dana 30 axle was later replaced with a Dana 44. Power steering came late. So a later model or one that's been upgraded is a big plus.
They don't make 'em like they used to, and when it comes to the old carbs and breaker point ignitions that's a GOOD thing. You can get the old stuff working well (and with some continued effort you can keep it working well). But and upgrade to an electronic ignition system is a good thing, and EFI wouldn't be a bad addition either.
Broncos aren't cheap either. People can want some really big bucks for some real rust buckets, and they can often get it. For $20,000 you ought to be able to find something pretty decent though. Good luck!
#3
Rust is first priority. It is the most expensive problem to repair on these vehicles. Front door hinge posts are difficult to replace correctly. Get these wrong and it throws everything else out of whack. Check frame at rear wheels and portion hidden by fuel tank.
Easiest vin# to find is on top of passenger side frame across from starter. 76-77 are usually more desirable due to some creature comforts becoming stock.
Shop carefully, you can buy cheaper than build especially if skills and tools are limited. Good luck in your search and never buy without looking in person.
Easiest vin# to find is on top of passenger side frame across from starter. 76-77 are usually more desirable due to some creature comforts becoming stock.
Shop carefully, you can buy cheaper than build especially if skills and tools are limited. Good luck in your search and never buy without looking in person.
#4
If you can spend 20K you should have NO issues with rust or anything else. That will be the mid to low price range of a fully restored one that should be reliable.
Newer as in mid to later on 75 ish? you should be able to get V8 P/S P/B, front disk brakes.
Look out for IMO drum brakes, manual steering and brakes a worn out POS that is way over priced. A uncut rear fender one is going to be $$$$
Rust... every where everyone else said.
Rocker panel is easy rust repair A piller/door hinge is not, make sure your 20K beauty has steel in that area.
Vin is on B piller by the door striker, like all other trucks, but ABOVE the latch pin. VI# should be on the passenger side top frame rail in the area of the front shock tower.
Vi# riveted tag is on the glove box door and no I am not kidding. Make sure they did not swap glove box doors to get it titled.
Make sure the paper VI# matches the glove box and for sure matches the B post tag and x100 the frame vi#.
1971 Ford Bronco survivor uncut would still need work I am sure.
1969 Ford bronco
1972 FORD BRONCO v8 3spd standard
Rocks anyone? 74 FORD BRONCO
1972 Ford Bronco 302 Mickey Thompson Baja Claw
1968 Ford Bronco Half Cab
1969 Ford bronco
Uncut Vintage Bronco 1972
Uncut Vintage Bronco 1970
http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/4843328951.html
Newer as in mid to later on 75 ish? you should be able to get V8 P/S P/B, front disk brakes.
Look out for IMO drum brakes, manual steering and brakes a worn out POS that is way over priced. A uncut rear fender one is going to be $$$$
Rust... every where everyone else said.
Rocker panel is easy rust repair A piller/door hinge is not, make sure your 20K beauty has steel in that area.
Vin is on B piller by the door striker, like all other trucks, but ABOVE the latch pin. VI# should be on the passenger side top frame rail in the area of the front shock tower.
Vi# riveted tag is on the glove box door and no I am not kidding. Make sure they did not swap glove box doors to get it titled.
Make sure the paper VI# matches the glove box and for sure matches the B post tag and x100 the frame vi#.
1971 Ford Bronco survivor uncut would still need work I am sure.
1969 Ford bronco
1972 FORD BRONCO v8 3spd standard
Rocks anyone? 74 FORD BRONCO
1972 Ford Bronco 302 Mickey Thompson Baja Claw
1968 Ford Bronco Half Cab
1969 Ford bronco
Uncut Vintage Bronco 1972
Uncut Vintage Bronco 1970
http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/4843328951.html
#5
A couple of those wouldn't be all too bad actually. Being in MN, makes it kind of hard to find any Bronco that's worth a damn, most are rusted through, on their last legs kinda trucks, and I really don't want anyone else's problems.
Thanks for the replies guys, really help me get a good view point on what to look for.
Thanks for the replies guys, really help me get a good view point on what to look for.
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