New Mod in progress... Relocate relays
#16
Nice tip, Scotty. I've considered that route and have searched for appropriately sized connectors here in town, and I simply cannot find them in stock anywhere. I also have to get this finished this weekend...it's a MUST... so, either ordering from out of town or paying for expedited shipping just adds even more cost and/or delay to the job.
Besides, as infrequently as I expect to have to get either the VC or CAC tube out, I'm OK with the Velcro tie-wraps and simply disconnecting the wiring at the GPR. That way, I can install soldered connections at the harness splice and not have to worry about a connector getting compromised.
I DO like the concept, though.
Besides, as infrequently as I expect to have to get either the VC or CAC tube out, I'm OK with the Velcro tie-wraps and simply disconnecting the wiring at the GPR. That way, I can install soldered connections at the harness splice and not have to worry about a connector getting compromised.
I DO like the concept, though.
#19
OK. The bracket has been trimmed down to hold just the GPR, and it is mounted on the fender wall with the relay in position, just waiting for the wiring connections to be done in the morning.
I've updated my album with pictures of the final bracket configuration. Relocate Relays Mod - PICTURES.
I've updated my album with pictures of the final bracket configuration. Relocate Relays Mod - PICTURES.
#22
Looooong day, but plenty done. Should finish tomorrow afternoon.
- GPR wiring extensions completed and Stancor GPR connected.
- AIH relay wiring shrink wrapped, taped, and bundled in loom to be kept out of the way.
- Lots of other details from the other work I've been doing while the truck has been down
- discovered that I had installed and sealed the 470 ohm resistor into the wrong connector... now moved to the right location for the EBPV actuator connector.
Remaining work/steps...
- finish all the details for getting everything back in the engine bay and getting the truck started
- GPR wiring extensions completed and Stancor GPR connected.
- AIH relay wiring shrink wrapped, taped, and bundled in loom to be kept out of the way.
- Lots of other details from the other work I've been doing while the truck has been down
- discovered that I had installed and sealed the 470 ohm resistor into the wrong connector... now moved to the right location for the EBPV actuator connector.
Remaining work/steps...
- finish all the details for getting everything back in the engine bay and getting the truck started
#23
#24
#26
Pete I don't know how you have gotten so much done with that bad hand. Please take it easy I would hate to see you do more harm to it. Now I am really liking the way this project is turning out.
#27
Thanks, Ed. Resting is still in progress at the moment, but now mainly because I was late getting in from the road last night and am traveling again both today and Thursday. Still, I hope to peck at it a bit tomorrow evening and hopefully finish it up either Thursday night or Friday afternoon.
I'm very grateful that the hand has not limited me more than it has. Though I have pushed the hand, I'm being careful, and putting it to use is actually helping a little bit.
#28
OK. Wiring is complete, and more pictures will be coming soon once I get a few more important issues in hand (truck running and engine bay cleaned back up after my pedestal leaks.
UPDATE... I have to tell you that I like having the valley cleaned up a bit. But... I have also discovered the best benefit from having the relay on the fender... when I had to R&R the turbo a second time this weekend due to a pinched pedestal oring which would not seal, I don't even have to remove the fuel bowl any more to do the turbo!
Within about 25 minutes, I was yanking the turbo out of the hole having disconnected the CAC boots, removed the spider, disconnected the turbo flanges, and unbolted the turbo itself! We replaced the damaged oring and had the turbo back in the hole in another 15 minutes. The backside turbo bolt is tougher to work with.
Point is, without having to fool with the relays or relay bracket, R&R on the turbo is much more manageable than I had anticipated, and I've only EVER R&R'd the turbo twice in my life!
Another thing... this Stancor relay is really loud... when it switches, there is a definite and loud CLICK! that I've never heard before. This may be partially due to the hard connection on the fender wall as opposed to being somewhat more isolated when it was bolted to the engine block. I believe I'll get a 1/4" thick piece of rubber to insert between the fender and the new bracket to try to deaden the sound a bit.
UPDATE... I have to tell you that I like having the valley cleaned up a bit. But... I have also discovered the best benefit from having the relay on the fender... when I had to R&R the turbo a second time this weekend due to a pinched pedestal oring which would not seal, I don't even have to remove the fuel bowl any more to do the turbo!
Within about 25 minutes, I was yanking the turbo out of the hole having disconnected the CAC boots, removed the spider, disconnected the turbo flanges, and unbolted the turbo itself! We replaced the damaged oring and had the turbo back in the hole in another 15 minutes. The backside turbo bolt is tougher to work with.
Point is, without having to fool with the relays or relay bracket, R&R on the turbo is much more manageable than I had anticipated, and I've only EVER R&R'd the turbo twice in my life!
Another thing... this Stancor relay is really loud... when it switches, there is a definite and loud CLICK! that I've never heard before. This may be partially due to the hard connection on the fender wall as opposed to being somewhat more isolated when it was bolted to the engine block. I believe I'll get a 1/4" thick piece of rubber to insert between the fender and the new bracket to try to deaden the sound a bit.
#29