Hello. I am sure you all get a lot of questions about no start on the 6.0. The issue I am having is I just recently replaced the stc fitting, egr cooler, and oil cooler on an 07 6.0. It originally was a hot no start condition. We decided to start with the stc fitting and go from there. My question is, how long would i expect to crank before getting it to start. I have been cranking on it for around 6-7 sessions of 20 sec cranks but nothing. I did dump approximately 5 quarts of oil into the filter housing to try and prime to oil cooler sump. My icp was building starting at 100 and up to 250. It has seemed to stop at 250 psi and the ipr at 85%. I have the batteries on charge. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

Just about the point you want to throw up it will kick off.

Your probably pretty close. Double check your FICM plugs too.

 

Pull and inspect the IPR for a damaged screen, it is very common to get debris in the IPR screen after oil cooler work despite your best efforts to be clean, a common source is lint from paper towels or from the rags that were used. I would also check for DTC's you can have codes without a check engine light.
It can take up to and even exceed 3 minutes of actual crank time with this type of work, just be sure to keep the batteries charged and give the starter a rest every 30 seconds or so of cranking.

 

Ok. I checked and there are no DTC's coming up. I pulled the ICP plug and tried cranking and ipr was only around 69%. Would you still suspect a blocked or clogged screen?

 

In order to fill the HPO resivour you must remove the oil filter standpipe and pour the oil in the hole in the center of the filter housing. If you have an OBDII device that reads live data, check sync and FICM sync and ICP/IPR while cranking. If you don't have a device, keep cranking, it's possible it just ain't primed up yet. The resivour should be filled at least, but if you decide to pull the standpipe, only the front Torx screw (of three) needs to be removed then twist the standpipe to remove it.

 

I think I would try cranking a bit more but if after a couple more minutes of cranking and no start I would start rechecking all of the electrical connections touched during the work and also check the IPR. Have you updated the standpipes and dummy plugs? They are also problematic on the late 04' and up.

 

When i poured the oil in, I left the stand pipe in place. All my other gauges are reading normal. ficm is 48v, sync is yes. Do I need to drain some oil and remove the stand pipe and pour it in or just keep cranking?

 

fuel rail stand pipes have not been touched yet. all electrical was clean when plugged back in. Originally, the truck would start fine cold but not when hot.

 

I'd keep cranking. Resivour should be filled by now, even if the whole system isn't filled yet. Low pressure oil gauge coming up during cranking?

 

yes. the oil gauge is coming up during cranking. i did notice my ficm logic is only around 11-9 volts. may need to charge over night and continue in the morning.

 

Methinks lower dummy rail d-rings for the win.


EDIT: I just re-read your information provided in your original post where you state that ICP psi builds up to 250 and builds no higher than that. The first course of action is to remove the IPR valve and checked for a sucked in, broken screen. If this is the case, replace the IPR and re-attempt to start the engine. For what it's worth, a new IPR valve ohms out to about 6 ohms between the two pins if I recall correctly.

 

If that is the case, then why would it start fine cold before i did all this work to it. same weight oil was put back into the motor?

 

Trucks with failed dummy rail lower d-rings TYPICALLY start with no issue during cold soak, but fail to re-start once operating temperature is reached. This is because the oil is thick enough during cold soak, to overcome the leak source to build up sufficient pressure during engine cranking.

 

If that is the case, then the truck should start cold. the truck is not starting after now 10 sessions of 15 sec cranks after all the work that has been done. My concern is if i have done something that was wrong in the rebuild process that is causing the icp not to build up as fast. when i replaced the hpop on my 2003, it only took around 3 crank sessions to start. This one is not. I am wondering if it is where the batteries need to charge more so the engine will turn quicker and alleviate the air quicker?

 

The reason you check the IPR screen for damage is as previously mentioned is because debris ( dirt or lint )may have ended up in the HPOP reservoir during the oil cooler work and is then pulled through the HPOP and pushed through the IPR valve causing it to hang open and the result is low ICP pressure. It is very common to have this happen and is why it was suggested.