tinman


Thanks


I am using Acme finish 1 FC-740 Clear and Acme Finish 1 FH-741 hardner ( 55-80 degrees). these are part of Martin Senour NAPA line. All products used ( primers, base coat) were from same MFG

 

Thanks, I have not sprayed Acme, but have used Martin Senour Tec Base....it sprays pretty good.

You stated your temp was 60.....that's cooler than I prefer. I try to get the shop temp to 70 and the metal temp at least 65. If you have an exhaust fan running it will cool things down quick too. Having everything warm, including the paint makes it flow out better without runs.

Also you may have to reduce your spray pattern slightly to get better control.

 

Tinman,


Thanks All doable items . I have a great heater in the shop. By reducing my pattern, I assume you mean reduce the fan ****. Will hopefully implement these items tomorrow of Thursday.


Actually, I can heat the shop the night before..
What about running the fan when I am painting or no?

 

Spray some test panels if you can.....you want the pattern pretty equal from top to bottom.

Heating the shop overnight will help keep everything warm. I also make sure the paint is warm too.
You need to have ventilation when painting....either a fan pushing fresh air in or one pulling the fumes out. If your fresh air source is from outside, it will cool your shop quickly causing problems. It's difficult to paint during cold weather, I try to avoid it.

Also, I don't know what your heat source is.....but please be careful when painting. We don't want you to go BOOM!

 

It's better to use the fan to draw the overspray out and away from your work ,but you don't want a lot of turbulence as it can pull trash into your work.

 

thank you tinman and ibuildmyown.


Going "Boom" is not an option, What I usually do is heat the shop ( gas hot air blower ) then secure the heat at the main panel. I keep the fan on during the process. After shop has been evacuated, I turn the heat back on.
It has worked out pretty well.

 

JimG1098, some really good comments here and lots to consider. I noticed in an earlier post, that you said you set your gun inlet pressure at 10 psi, and tried 28psi too. You noticed it sprayed better at the higher pressure. You're absolutely right about that and you might might want to bump it up some more. I think your Finishline gun calls for 30 psi at the gun inlet to get 10 psi at the cap. Setting 10 psi at the inlet is way too low for clear. And if you don't have a good diaphram regulator connected to the gun inlet, I'd strongly recommend doing so in order to get an accurate reading. I typically get my best results with clear by bumping my pressure a bit higher than the gun / paint spec calls for. I hope you get the clear laying to your satisfaction soon.

 

KGP50


thanks for the info. I 'd like to know more about the diaphragm reg at the gun. Not sure I have ever seen one. At present, I use an inline pressure gauge ( little **** adj ) as well , of course a reg at the wall. I am about 40-45 lbs at the wall coming into the valve. Then with trigger pulled, I'm adjusting to the reading on the gauge this time about 28 or so. Would the same process apply with the diaphragm gauge

 

Spray gun air regulator valves are typically either a diaphragm type or cheater valve type. Either will work ... diaphragm types give more accurate readings. Do an internet search for it and you'll see which you have. The brand I use is RTI. I had cheater valves on my guns until I tried the RTI. All have the diaphragm type now. And yes, the adjustment is the same for either one. Sounds like you're doing it correct. I would probably bump up your line pressure (at the wall) and do the same for your gun pressure (3-5psi) and see if you're getting better atomization.

 

Thank you KGP50. I am looking into the gauges as I write. I'll let you know how I make out. One of the thing I did notice when shooting at 28# was a lot of cloud mist. Fan took care of it. Would the cloud mist be normal? And I have a cheapie cheater valve type. I think most of my problems are technique. Adding that to the gun set up, I still have so much to learn.


thanks

 

The mist you're referring to is just overspray and some is normal, but too much and the paint can lay down dry and grainy. Good atomization of the paint is essential, and laying down a nice coat is primarily controlled by gun settings and spray technique. You might consider searching for online discussions of these issues by other Finishline users. I use a Devilbiss FLG3 for primers -- and it does a great job. I mostly use an old Sharpe Platinum for base and clear coats. Keep practicing ... it's very satisfying when you finally get it right. Plus, painting your own project helps you understand why the real pros charge many thousands for a nice job!

 

KGP50.


Some good tips there. thanks


RTi MR-1 Mini Paint Gun Regulator - The Collision Equipment Group


I believe this is the type of reg. you are referring to.


Today, I will wet sand some panels down to keep up with it. This truck has a lot of real estate to wetsand.


Then, I think I'll clean the shop floor up again before my next session with the clear.


Thanks for all your help. Much appreciated

 

We will need pics to see if we helped, good luck.

 

I will definitely send some pics. Thanks all who are helping.

 

Today, clear coat went pretty well. to dark for a decent picture in the shop. Seemed to have less orange peal and the panel looks fairly decent before wetsanding. Still having a sag every now and then around something tight or crowded. Will address that tomorrow We are getting there but it is still not consistent. Tried it at 28-30 with trigger pulled and backed off the product a little. Fan is still open.