Leading Edge Tuning for Ecoboost
#91
05-27-2015, 05:22 PM
Cargo Master
Prince, I think that truck has Solo down pipes, Wagner intercooler, thermostat, and either methanol or compressor wheels (I can't remember which).
Full Race just hit 500 RWHP on 91 octane with their new EFR turbo kit. The stock fuel system was at the limit. They are working on a fuel system upgrade because the turbos can support up to 1100 HP!
LET is the tuner for Full Race.
Full Race just hit 500 RWHP on 91 octane with their new EFR turbo kit. The stock fuel system was at the limit. They are working on a fuel system upgrade because the turbos can support up to 1100 HP!
LET is the tuner for Full Race.
#93
05-27-2015, 06:29 PM
Well, I think this particular internet argument has reached it's logical conclusion.
#94
05-27-2015, 06:55 PM
What is "driveable" becomes very subjective as power goes up. Depends a lot on driver skill to keep it between the lanes and tolerance to quirky behavior. At some point it certainly becomes a toy and is useful for little else. I'm not sure if the stock short block can hold together past 800 Hp. Going to be interesting to see when and what breaks as they run to Ecoboost to the extreme.
#95
05-27-2015, 07:22 PM
#96
05-27-2015, 07:54 PM
You are right about everything; I misspelled a word and that proves it.
Last edited by RRRSkinner; 05-27-2015 at 08:14 PM. Reason: Didn't want to lower myself
#97
05-27-2015, 11:47 PM
I got a few packages delivered today so I decided to install the oil catch can tonight. It was super easy! Literally took longer to read the instructions than to just do it. 
I promised pictures so here it is.
This is the UPR "Mega" dual valve catch can. The hoses come pre-assembled. All you do is mount the can, screw in the clean side separator, and route the hoses and you're done. Truly a plug and play deal and very easy to accomplish! I chose the larger Mega can because I live in a place with cold winters and I didn't want to have to worry about the can filling with water and spilling back into the system. (It can happen in a couple hundred miles with the smaller cans) The water isn't from the engine per say, it is because hot air from engine is passing through a cold can and water condensates inside the can. After all, the can is designed to cause condensate but it works entirely too well in some weather conditions.
Stock PCV hoses come off the engine and get stored in the garage for next owner. Driver side is on right, passenger side is the tube on left.
Driver side catch can hose has a tee in it and plugs into the two locations where the driver side PCV tube came out. The clean side separator (shiny black cylinder close to oil fill cap) screws into the top of the valve cover and then just snap on the hose. Other side of hose tee snaps on to the air intake tract (cold side of turbo). A check valve is already plumbed into the hose so no need to do anything else except run it to the catch can.
Passenger side has two hoses. One runs to the valve cover and the other runs to intake manifold just behind the valve body. The intake manifold hose has a check valve that needs to face the correct direction and that is not stated in the instructions. Both ends of hose are the same so it can be flipped by accident. I didn't think about it until after I went for a drive. I blew in the hose and air went both ways, but I wasn't about to suck on the hose after driving!
I'll call UPR tech line tomorrow to verify. Also, you're supposed to be able to reinstall the engine cover but I couldn't due to the way I ran the hoses. I suppose I could wrestle with it and force it on, but I don't want to place strain on the hose connections and cause a leak. I'll just leave the cover off. I also used a zip tie (not shown here) to hold the hoses away from an electrical connector for what I think is the AC high pressure switch. Didn't want those hoses bumping on that connector.
Catch can installed in front of radiator. It has a ball valve at the bottom to drain contents, and a barbed fitting for a hose if you like. I will be installing a clear hose so I can drain it without spilling on the truck and see when it stops draining. I did have to remove the side skirts at the edges of the radiator for hoses to pass through on both sides. You'll need another large zip tie to help hose routing across the radiator. You also need to move the ambient temp sensor because that's the hole where the catch can mounts. My wiring loom didn't reach to where UPR suggested to move the sensor so I'll just have to fold it back on the harness and tie it off.
I was vacillating between buying the Rx Performance catch can, or the UPR catch can. UPR is a simple install whereas Rx requires drilling intake tract and filter box and has more hose routing. Honestly both work but the Rx has a superior PCV schema. Problem is the internet abounds with complaints about Rx not having the correct parts in the kit. And that seems to be confirmed by dealers dropping the product from their catalogs due to all the customer service hassles. So I went with the UPR. Hassle free is more my style and they delivered. :
I promised pictures so here it is.This is the UPR "Mega" dual valve catch can. The hoses come pre-assembled. All you do is mount the can, screw in the clean side separator, and route the hoses and you're done. Truly a plug and play deal and very easy to accomplish! I chose the larger Mega can because I live in a place with cold winters and I didn't want to have to worry about the can filling with water and spilling back into the system. (It can happen in a couple hundred miles with the smaller cans) The water isn't from the engine per say, it is because hot air from engine is passing through a cold can and water condensates inside the can. After all, the can is designed to cause condensate but it works entirely too well in some weather conditions.
Stock PCV hoses come off the engine and get stored in the garage for next owner. Driver side is on right, passenger side is the tube on left.
Driver side catch can hose has a tee in it and plugs into the two locations where the driver side PCV tube came out. The clean side separator (shiny black cylinder close to oil fill cap) screws into the top of the valve cover and then just snap on the hose. Other side of hose tee snaps on to the air intake tract (cold side of turbo). A check valve is already plumbed into the hose so no need to do anything else except run it to the catch can.
Passenger side has two hoses. One runs to the valve cover and the other runs to intake manifold just behind the valve body. The intake manifold hose has a check valve that needs to face the correct direction and that is not stated in the instructions. Both ends of hose are the same so it can be flipped by accident. I didn't think about it until after I went for a drive. I blew in the hose and air went both ways, but I wasn't about to suck on the hose after driving!
I'll call UPR tech line tomorrow to verify. Also, you're supposed to be able to reinstall the engine cover but I couldn't due to the way I ran the hoses. I suppose I could wrestle with it and force it on, but I don't want to place strain on the hose connections and cause a leak. I'll just leave the cover off. I also used a zip tie (not shown here) to hold the hoses away from an electrical connector for what I think is the AC high pressure switch. Didn't want those hoses bumping on that connector.Catch can installed in front of radiator. It has a ball valve at the bottom to drain contents, and a barbed fitting for a hose if you like. I will be installing a clear hose so I can drain it without spilling on the truck and see when it stops draining. I did have to remove the side skirts at the edges of the radiator for hoses to pass through on both sides. You'll need another large zip tie to help hose routing across the radiator. You also need to move the ambient temp sensor because that's the hole where the catch can mounts. My wiring loom didn't reach to where UPR suggested to move the sensor so I'll just have to fold it back on the harness and tie it off.
I was vacillating between buying the Rx Performance catch can, or the UPR catch can. UPR is a simple install whereas Rx requires drilling intake tract and filter box and has more hose routing. Honestly both work but the Rx has a superior PCV schema. Problem is the internet abounds with complaints about Rx not having the correct parts in the kit. And that seems to be confirmed by dealers dropping the product from their catalogs due to all the customer service hassles. So I went with the UPR. Hassle free is more my style and they delivered. :
#98
05-28-2015, 04:51 AM
I got a few packages delivered today so I decided to install the oil catch can tonight. It was super easy! Literally took longer to read the instructions than to just do it. I promised pictures so here it is.
This is the UPR "Mega" dual valve catch can. The hoses come pre-assembled. All you do is mount the can, screw in the clean side separator, and route the hoses and you're done. Truly a plug and play deal and very easy to accomplish! I chose the larger Mega can because I live in a place with cold winters and I didn't want to have to worry about the can filling with water and spilling back into the system. (It can happen in a couple hundred miles with the smaller cans) The water isn't from the engine per say, it is because hot air from engine is passing through a cold can and water condensates inside the can. After all, the can is designed to cause condensate but it works entirely too well in some weather conditions.
Stock PCV hoses come off the engine and get stored in the garage for next owner. Driver side is on right, passenger side is the tube on left.
Driver side catch can hose has a tee in it and plugs into the two locations where the driver side PCV tube came out. The clean side separator (shiny black cylinder close to oil fill cap) screws into the top of the valve cover and then just snap on the hose. Other side of hose tee snaps on to the air intake tract (cold side of turbo). A check valve is already plumbed into the hose so no need to do anything else except run it to the catch can.
Passenger side has two hoses. One runs to the valve cover and the other runs to intake manifold just behind the valve body. The intake manifold hose has a check valve that needs to face the correct direction and that is not stated in the instructions. Both ends of hose are the same so it can be flipped by accident. I didn't think about it until after I went for a drive. I blew in the hose and air went both ways, but I wasn't about to suck on the hose after driving! I'll call UPR tech line tomorrow to verify. Also, you're supposed to be able to reinstall the engine cover but I couldn't due to the way I ran the hoses. I suppose I could wrestle with it and force it on, but I don't want to place strain on the hose connections and cause a leak. I'll just leave the cover off. I also used a zip tie (not shown here) to hold the hoses away from an electrical connector for what I think is the AC high pressure switch. Didn't want those hoses bumping on that connector.
Catch can installed in front of radiator. It has a ball valve at the bottom to drain contents, and a barbed fitting for a hose if you like. I will be installing a clear hose so I can drain it without spilling on the truck and see when it stops draining. I did have to remove the side skirts at the edges of the radiator for hoses to pass through on both sides. You'll need another large zip tie to help hose routing across the radiator. You also need to move the ambient temp sensor because that's the hole where the catch can mounts. My wiring loom didn't reach to where UPR suggested to move the sensor so I'll just have to fold it back on the harness and tie it off.
I was vacillating between buying the Rx Performance catch can, or the UPR catch can. UPR is a simple install whereas Rx requires drilling intake tract and filter box and has more hose routing. Honestly both work but the Rx has a superior PCV schema. Problem is the internet abounds with complaints about Rx not having the correct parts in the kit. And that seems to be confirmed by dealers dropping the product from their catalogs due to all the customer service hassles. So I went with the UPR. Hassle free is more my style and they delivered.
I promised pictures so here it is.This is the UPR "Mega" dual valve catch can. The hoses come pre-assembled. All you do is mount the can, screw in the clean side separator, and route the hoses and you're done. Truly a plug and play deal and very easy to accomplish! I chose the larger Mega can because I live in a place with cold winters and I didn't want to have to worry about the can filling with water and spilling back into the system. (It can happen in a couple hundred miles with the smaller cans) The water isn't from the engine per say, it is because hot air from engine is passing through a cold can and water condensates inside the can. After all, the can is designed to cause condensate but it works entirely too well in some weather conditions.
Stock PCV hoses come off the engine and get stored in the garage for next owner. Driver side is on right, passenger side is the tube on left.
Driver side catch can hose has a tee in it and plugs into the two locations where the driver side PCV tube came out. The clean side separator (shiny black cylinder close to oil fill cap) screws into the top of the valve cover and then just snap on the hose. Other side of hose tee snaps on to the air intake tract (cold side of turbo). A check valve is already plumbed into the hose so no need to do anything else except run it to the catch can.
Passenger side has two hoses. One runs to the valve cover and the other runs to intake manifold just behind the valve body. The intake manifold hose has a check valve that needs to face the correct direction and that is not stated in the instructions. Both ends of hose are the same so it can be flipped by accident. I didn't think about it until after I went for a drive. I blew in the hose and air went both ways, but I wasn't about to suck on the hose after driving!
I'll call UPR tech line tomorrow to verify. Also, you're supposed to be able to reinstall the engine cover but I couldn't due to the way I ran the hoses. I suppose I could wrestle with it and force it on, but I don't want to place strain on the hose connections and cause a leak. I'll just leave the cover off. I also used a zip tie (not shown here) to hold the hoses away from an electrical connector for what I think is the AC high pressure switch. Didn't want those hoses bumping on that connector.
Catch can installed in front of radiator. It has a ball valve at the bottom to drain contents, and a barbed fitting for a hose if you like. I will be installing a clear hose so I can drain it without spilling on the truck and see when it stops draining. I did have to remove the side skirts at the edges of the radiator for hoses to pass through on both sides. You'll need another large zip tie to help hose routing across the radiator. You also need to move the ambient temp sensor because that's the hole where the catch can mounts. My wiring loom didn't reach to where UPR suggested to move the sensor so I'll just have to fold it back on the harness and tie it off.
I was vacillating between buying the Rx Performance catch can, or the UPR catch can. UPR is a simple install whereas Rx requires drilling intake tract and filter box and has more hose routing. Honestly both work but the Rx has a superior PCV schema. Problem is the internet abounds with complaints about Rx not having the correct parts in the kit. And that seems to be confirmed by dealers dropping the product from their catalogs due to all the customer service hassles. So I went with the UPR. Hassle free is more my style and they delivered.
There's plenty of room in the ecoboost for HP/TQ increases. The 6R80 is rated to withstand 800 ft.lb of torque. Clearly the rest of the driveline is rated to handle what the stock transmission can handle.
#100
05-28-2015, 08:37 AM
Spell check caught it and highlighted with a squiggly line but he told the computer it was wrong, mumbled something about Hitler, and added the word to his dictionary anyway. Since then he has had about seven more arguments about it with Siri.
#102
05-28-2015, 06:37 PM
I called UPR today and they said the check valves have arrows that should be pointing toward the engine side. Looked for the arrows but they covered the check valves with shrink wrap so markings are not visible.
I guess I'll have to try the air method again but this time move more air through the tube to get the check valve to work.
I guess I'll have to try the air method again but this time move more air through the tube to get the check valve to work.
#103
05-28-2015, 06:42 PM
That is not even remotely accurate. It is the logic you tend to use though, so at least you are consistent. I just hope I spelled everything correctly.
#104
05-29-2015, 12:33 AM
Took a little more care blowing in the line and the check valve does work. I had it oriented correct with the check valve closing if the manifold develops positive pressure. You definitely want to make sure orientation is correct or the turbos will pressurize the crankcase and blow out the oil seals.
#105
05-30-2015, 07:14 PM
Installed the intercooler today. Another easy and fairly quick job with no surprises (1 hour including taking pictures for you guys). Now I'll warn you that I did not read any of the instructions so you may or may not want to read on.
Wagner intercooler (left) next to stock intercooler (right). If I remember right, the Wagner is 30% larger and has less pressure drop from inlet to outlet. The stock intercooler is a real lightweight with plastic manifolds. The Wagner intercooler is heavy and really packs on the pounds.
Side view so you can see the difference in thickness. The Wagner is quite a bit thicker front to back.
These are all the tools you will need for the job. Pretty simple. Clip puller, 8 mm driver to loosen band clamps, and 13 mm and 10 mm sockets for various bolts. I was able to do the whole job with the truck on the ground. First step is remove the rubber skirt from under the truck using the clip puller. I also removed the front air dam (2 bolts) because I wanted it out of the way.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AK...oxvA__ds=w1200
To remove the intercooler you first have to detach the hoses. The two inlet hoses on the passenger side are simple band clamps with a bellows between the intercooler and hard pipe. I removed the bellows to give more room to work when sliding the intercooler in and out.
The driver side uses a different method. There is a retainer ring that keeps the pipe from coming off. Find the split in the retainer ring and lift the whole ring out of the groove, then just slide the pipe off.
The intercooler is not bolted in. It has posts that are sandwiched between two plates that bolt to the top and bottom of the frame rails. If you remove the the bottom plate (2 bolts) then the intercooler will fall out. The other alternative, what I did, is to remove the top plate (2 bolts) and pull the intercooler out the top. You will still need to remove the bottom plate because the Wagner intercooler is too large to drop in from the top. And yes, I did this job outside in a light rain.
Salvage the rubber isolators and place on the new intercooler.
The Wagner intercooler is big and it only goes in one way. You have to lay it under the truck with pipe stubs pointing up and the top of the intercooler facing toward the front of the truck. Just rotate the top up and lift the whole thing in place. At this point it really helps to have a friend hold the intercooler while you bolt the lower support plate to the frame rail. But if you don't have help, like I didn't, then you'll just have to get out some old fashioned muscle.
Everything reinstalled and buttoned up. Now for the million dollar question.... Was there oil in my stock intercooler? The answer is, YES, there was a large pool of oil puddled at the exit to engine (driver side), and the lower inlet tube on the passenger side was slicked with oil. And that, my friends, is exactly why I installed an oil catch can before the new intercooler went in.
Wagner intercooler (left) next to stock intercooler (right). If I remember right, the Wagner is 30% larger and has less pressure drop from inlet to outlet. The stock intercooler is a real lightweight with plastic manifolds. The Wagner intercooler is heavy and really packs on the pounds.
Side view so you can see the difference in thickness. The Wagner is quite a bit thicker front to back.
These are all the tools you will need for the job. Pretty simple. Clip puller, 8 mm driver to loosen band clamps, and 13 mm and 10 mm sockets for various bolts. I was able to do the whole job with the truck on the ground. First step is remove the rubber skirt from under the truck using the clip puller. I also removed the front air dam (2 bolts) because I wanted it out of the way.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AK...oxvA__ds=w1200
To remove the intercooler you first have to detach the hoses. The two inlet hoses on the passenger side are simple band clamps with a bellows between the intercooler and hard pipe. I removed the bellows to give more room to work when sliding the intercooler in and out.
The driver side uses a different method. There is a retainer ring that keeps the pipe from coming off. Find the split in the retainer ring and lift the whole ring out of the groove, then just slide the pipe off.
The intercooler is not bolted in. It has posts that are sandwiched between two plates that bolt to the top and bottom of the frame rails. If you remove the the bottom plate (2 bolts) then the intercooler will fall out. The other alternative, what I did, is to remove the top plate (2 bolts) and pull the intercooler out the top. You will still need to remove the bottom plate because the Wagner intercooler is too large to drop in from the top. And yes, I did this job outside in a light rain.
Salvage the rubber isolators and place on the new intercooler.
The Wagner intercooler is big and it only goes in one way. You have to lay it under the truck with pipe stubs pointing up and the top of the intercooler facing toward the front of the truck. Just rotate the top up and lift the whole thing in place. At this point it really helps to have a friend hold the intercooler while you bolt the lower support plate to the frame rail. But if you don't have help, like I didn't, then you'll just have to get out some old fashioned muscle.
Everything reinstalled and buttoned up.
Now for the million dollar question.... Was there oil in my stock intercooler? The answer is, YES, there was a large pool of oil puddled at the exit to engine (driver side), and the lower inlet tube on the passenger side was slicked with oil. And that, my friends, is exactly why I installed an oil catch can before the new intercooler went in.