Got a lot of wiring done this weekend. I will add the schematic I used for critic and comments later this week. After reading some old posts and previous suggestions from one of my schematics i posted this where I have come to along with a lil research on google. Here are the pics. The box is a 100 AMP circuit breaker running from the battery to the alternator. I also capped my oil lines for the oil filter. Which has lead me to try and figure out how to get oil pressure reading. I have the original gauges all working I finished the dash lights and when I complete that I will also post pictures. Almost ready to put some fluids in the ole girl and give her a crank. Let me know what ya all think.

 

It looks great! What size alternator are you running? If it's capable of supplying the full 100 amps that the breaker will hold, then you might consider running larger wire from the alternator to the breaker and from the breaker to the solenoid. What you have now looks to be no larger than a 10 or 12 gauge. You could cook the insulation off of it in a hurry under a sustained load of over about 30 amps.

 

48-50 cars and trucks had the OP sender screwed into the hole in the block where the filter line is on 51-52. It is hard to get to down there, but possible.

Ditto the comments on wire gauge. My alternator is a 100 amp and I'm running 8-ga from it. Is this a temporary hookup just to get it running?

 

For the water temp senders, you might consider running the second wire behind the engine rather than over the top and across the middle. It may make for a cleaner look if they're tucked in the area under the head along the intake face. But you're definitely on the right track.

 

So yes I ran the 8 gauge today I was using the 10 just to run it till my 8 gauge wire came in which thankfully was today. After switching to the 8 gauge though now I'm having issues the starter doesn't want to turn over (which I think possibly is a bad ground still looking into this) and my choke cable is arcing against the frame when you try to start it. (which btw no wire is touching the choke cable so I suspect has something to do with a short to ground) How this happened over night and after one wire change that is unrelated is beyond me. Something somewhere is not right. So will work it this week and check back in.

 

Where is the choke cable arc'ing?? It's mounted in the dash, should be grounded there.

 

At the firewall

 

Following.

 

Solved it! My first instinct was to check all my grounds. Typically when weird unrelated stuff happens it is usually a ground problem. So what I found was a failure to make a good ground from the battery to the engine block. Just for extra and good practice I ran an additional ground from the engine block to the frame. Give the ole key a turn and whaaaa laaa she works. Must mention i did end up replacing my ballast resistor and will be eventually replacing the coil with a 12V one. Bottom line of this story is check every ground and you can never have to many grounds. I also ran a ground from the frame to the cab!

 

some pics of how she sits currently



100 amp CB with 8 gauge witre





switched vacuum advance to rubber line between to ports





switched start solenoid to late model type





did really want to go behind manifold so just shot straight across





note oil pressure gauge

 

Looks nice! I notice your throttle return spring is hooked up wrong tho. The way it is, it appears the spring may grind on the throttle linkage as you drive. The front end of the spring goes into a hole on the bracket for the choke cable, with the large diameter part of the spring going under the throttle link.

 

Thanks Ross I had been trying to figure out the night i did that where the heck it mounted. Needless to say where it is mounted there is about 1/4 inch of clearance thru all travel of the throttle. That was very much so a pain to make happen as well. Now it is moved to the correct hole that I never noticed before.