Ok gents
I have a 97 ford f250 deisel 7.3 and the clutch is acting really weird so the clutch will not shift in to 1st or 2nd when you are not moving with out reving up the motor and then engaging it to 1st or 2nd gear

While moving .. when you come up to a stop or a light and just when your about to come to a stop you can slide it in to 2nd gear but you have to be moving and about 1500 rpm to do so ..
Now any other gear you can get in to moving or not with ease

I have replace
clutched master cylinder
clutch slave cylinder
all new hydraulic lines
acceleration sensor (since I thought the low idle was a issue)

Now still no luck with clutch the tranny was inspected by amco
and to my surprise there was no issue other then normal wear and tear

Now I have owned this truck for about a year and the previous owner said the clutch was replaced about a year befor my purchase and has been acting this way about 4 months after install
so any ideas or advice is appreciated

 

How far off the floorboard is the peddle when the clutch starts to engauge while the truck is at a dead stop? Have you checked the bearing fork and pivot ball for wear?

 

The truck will still start to crawl forward or backwards even if the clutch is all the way in, it almost acts if it's not going in to a full neutral state when the clutch petal is fully compressed and it doesn't seem to have a happy medium either

I hope that answers your question and i have not yet checked the fork or bearing as of yet I will check that ASAP when I get off work

 

When you replaced the clutch slave cylinder, did the plastic tip stay on the push rod? Was the master and slave a prebled unit, or were they replaced seperatly? Another place to check is the eye where the clutch master hooks to the peddle, and the bushings in the peddle box.

 

Did you BLEED the hydraulics after all the replacements?

"Narrow-down" test. Slide under the truck with a tape measure or ruler, and measure the fork movement while an assistant works the pedal. Minimum is 1/2"-9/16". If you get that minimum movement or more, problem is "downstream" - bent fork, pressure plate fingers, etc. If less than the minimum, problem is "upstream" - hydraulics, linkage, etc. There's a craptastic plastic bushing where the pedal arm attaches to the pushrod eyelet. Pedal box bushing quick-and-dirty test - lightly TOUCH the brake pedal with your right foot, then work the clutch pedal with your left foot. If you feel "feedback" in the brake pedal as you work the clutch pedal, the pedal box bushings are shot.

The above-mentioned pre-bled master-line-slave assembly is a better deal than replacing the parts separately. 10 minute installation, no bleeding.