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Starter not disengaging

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Old 01-18-2015, 07:17 AM
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Starter not disengaging

Im at the point of getting my truck to finally start after a complete tear down. Now I have a complete fresh 390cid and a c-6 trans,and all brand new assories, ie started, solenoid, alternator, and key switch housing. My problem is that when I go to turn the engine over with the key it will not disengage the starter when I let off the key in start position, keeps trying to start. So I ve been through everything from new key switch and tumbler, new solenoid, new starter, and I even made new grounds for everything but still dose the same thing. If anyone has any ideas what it could be or what to do that would be great. Im going out today to buy a new solenoid(inner fender one) and give that a try.
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:22 AM
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normally thats 1 of 2 things, clearance between the fly wheel teeth and the starter teeth are to tight or going in to far, a small shim normally will fix it. Other,bad bendix in the starter and yes new one's can have a bad bendix.
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Bud Mud
Other,bad bendix in the starter and yes new one's can have a bad bendix.
Easy way to check is to pull the starter, reconnect to solenoid and see if starter works correctly. Next step is to measure voltages at solenoid during and post start to make sure that's wired and/or working correctly
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:58 AM
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Thanks for all info. I guess it's time to pull off the headers and check the starter.
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:02 AM
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The starter is working it turns the engine over but when u let off the key which should stop the starter from turning it keeps going, something has to tell the starter to stop- the solenoid right? And at sometime it will start to turn the engine over when key is in assecorie position, so that's why I went with complete new key switch.
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by brookdale79
The starter is working it turns the engine over but when u let off the key which should stop the starter from turning it keeps going, something has to tell the starter to stop- the solenoid right? And at sometime it will start to turn the engine over when key is in assecorie position, so that's why I went with complete new key switch.
Are you handy with a volt meter? If so, you will want to check power at the solenoid. This may require a second pair of hands. There should be two posts on the solenoid. If you are facing the posts, the left hand one is the trigger for the starter. The right hand one supplies voltage to the coil/ignition module while starter is running. Check to see if you have 12 volts to the starter post when the key goes back to 'on' position. If so, either that key switch is bad also or there are wires crossed somewhere. Also, when you say accessory, do you mean the key position to the left of off?
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:21 AM
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Wow, that almost sounds like some wires shorting under the dash. The solenoid should only be energized in the start position on the key switch.
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:23 AM
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Don't have a volt meter to check them. I'm talking bout the position between off and start, the spot tha will make the dash/radio/fan work with out truck running. I have followed the 2 wires from solenoid to the fire wall no breaks or crossing in that whip. I replaced the whole key switch inside the truck, the switch housing and tumbler, which is only mechanical.
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:25 AM
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I've never had the wires out of the truck I have traced all wires to the point of were they disappear in under the heater core
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:32 AM
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That's the run position, something might have rubbed through under the dash between the fuse block and switch
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by brookdale79
Don't have a volt meter to check them. I'm talking bout the position between off and start, the spot tha will make the dash/radio/fan work with out truck running. I have followed the 2 wires from solenoid to the fire wall no breaks or crossing in that whip. I replaced the whole key switch inside the truck, the switch housing and tumbler, which is only mechanical.
The spot between off and start is run and not acc. ACC should be to the left of OFF. When you let the key go because the truck turned over, it goes to run. If you have the chance, get a volt meter. This will help greatly for troubleshooting purposes. Also, one other item, when you check the solenoid post. If the voltage at the start post drops to 0v when the key is not in start, then the solenoid itself may be faulty.
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 10:10 AM
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Yes the run position, sometimes the starter will still try to start engine in that position. I guess I have a full day of following wires and trying a differnt starter. Thanks
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 84espy
The spot between off and start is run and not acc. ACC should be to the left of OFF. When you let the key go because the truck turned over, it goes to run. If you have the chance, get a volt meter. This will help greatly for troubleshooting purposes. Also, one other item, when you check the solenoid post. If the voltage at the start post drops to 0v when the key is not in start, then the solenoid itself may be faulty.
Everything is new out of box but do understand it still can be crap. I will look int a volt meter then and start over.
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 02:27 PM
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Well after a day of following wire and trying a new solenoid. It turned out just to be a hot wire cross plug. Located up near the fire wall, it's a small 4 plug whip coming out of the fire wall and the male end is just a cross wire for the actually hot wire from switch to start post on silenoid. Always something simple and right in front of u!
 
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Old 01-18-2015, 03:26 PM
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Good for you.
 
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