I did know a guy with a Subaru diesel that had never changed his oil with over 200k. The dip stick looked like 90w oil! I was so amazed...I just couldn't imagine doing that to an engine!

 

Yup, that's what I was talking about. If you've never done it before, that magnet can make your heart stop when you see it.


I think my son in law is currently trying this with his riding lawnmower. We'll see how it turns out.

Of course it wouldn't work at all in our HEUI systems. Injectors would stop working right way before the oil got to that point.

 

(maybe) a short story .......
I (wife, really) have a 2002 Honda accord 2.0 auto with 400,000+ and growing on the odometer. I take are of it as scheduled by Honda, and fix small, low cost issues before they become huge issues with big costs. I also fix things or have them fixed as they wear out.
The car still gets 27-30 mpg and is very reliable. It may rust apart before it quits running altogether.

Same maint with my truck. Fords' schedule and fix as needed.

Longevity comes from regular maintenance and quality supplies. What do you want from your multi-thousand dollar truck investment?

 

I'll have pictures for you guys later. Wish me luck driving it home. 😁

 

(Delete. Pics wouldn't load)

 

OK. I had the mechanic take pics. The file sizes are about 3mb.....and I think my attachment allotment is for file sizes of 1.7mb. I'll have to figure something else out. I sent them to my home computer and might try to resize or something.

Anyway, I took the 'middle' route. The pan was drained, filter changed, and the pan cleaned (looks like new). He put 8 quarts back into it. He drained it, looked at the pan and the color of the fluid (black or almost black) and decided not to do a full flush. I just told him whatever he thought best.....and went with that. So at least there's better grade fluid in it now and a new filter. I'll just run with it from there....and in 30,000 miles, drain 8 quarts and put 8 new quarts in.

Had other work done too. Parking brake and the rear pads (about 2mm left) replaced. The MONEY shot was the left hub assembly, front. Replaced. Was getting 'loose' and it had actually been making noise when driving. Went ahead and replaced the serpentine belt too, which was showing wear.

Other stuff done while on the lift, and filled and greased as needed.

Anyway. Drove it home and appears fine.

If I can get the pics loaded, I'll post those tonight.

 

If you're going to half a$$ the fluid change, you should also half or better the change interval.

 

I agree with F-350. You have a set of wrenches and a bucket right?
Every week for 3 weeks I would do a pan drain. If its a daily driver it will mix up by then.
Atleast at month.

 

I agree, why half a$$ the change. Whats the diff between a full fluid change and adding 8 new qts every month. Just do it all at once.

 

I was thinking of pretty much the same thing. You call it 'half-assed'.....but wouldn't putting in 8 new quarts every month or so pretty much do the same thing? Just over time? Especially with a new filter and shiny new pan??????

Yes. I have wrenches and a bucket.......and a pretty decent county recycle place I use when I do oil changes..........

 

And yeah......not as clean as a full flush......but a LOT better than what I had....yes?

 

i recently just came into possesion of a late 99 f350 superduty dually with 402k on the OD but the paperwork state no trans service ever done to it!!!!

 

I know this doesn't help your case, but personally I'M encouraged by your post....lol..

 

lol im dropping the tranny to replace the synchronizers (6spd Standard) ZF S6-650. im not looking forward to it!!!

 

no, all that will do is make the contaminated nasty black oil less contaminated and black.

it is kinda like having water in the oil of the engine.
engine holds 4 gallons of oil. so you drain 2 gallons and add 2 fresh. you will still have water in the oil, just a little less.