Clutch pedal to the floor
#1
Clutch pedal to the floor
Hello all. Hope you're enjoying the nice weather : (
1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without
grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now but can anyone get me started as to what to look for and where.
Thanks for any help and advice you can provide.
1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without
grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now but can anyone get me started as to what to look for and where.
Thanks for any help and advice you can provide.
#2
Have you checked the level in the clutch master cyl reservoir, if its empty, theres your problem. If it still has fluid, then either the slave, or master has gotten air in them. If its air in the slave, it can be bled out, check under the dash on the firewall under the clutch master for sigh's of a leak. The master cyl's do go bad, and will suck air in.
#3
#4
#5
Its on the driver side on the firewall above the steering shaft. Has a black top and should be clear with levels marked on it. Should also have a black rubber inset in it. also sits to rear of the brake master cyl. Its fairly small like 1/2 of small water bottle. Has a line from it running down to slave cyl the brake system will have 2 lines coming out.
#6
Help greatly appreciated.
I located what looks like a plastic pill bottle with screw on cap mounted to the side of the chassis. Has a hose out the bottom that runs down to a T fitting coming off what looks like a rubber boot protruding from the firewall. The other hose from that T is going down and under the truck towards the back... to the tranny I assume.
The bottle was empty. Added DOT 5 fluid. Hard to see any level markings but added to about 1/4" from the top. Replaced cap and worked the clutch pedal for a bit. Checked the fluid and level was the same.
NOTE: After watching the video I posted below I realize I did not remove that black insert in the reservoir.
Started the truck and was able to get it in gear with no grinding but still not getting much play before it engages. Better than before I lost it all but not completely there yet.
I assume I need to now bleed it.
I found this video on Youtube. This seems like a nightmare job if I have to do what this guy is doing. Can someone take a look and advise, please.
I located what looks like a plastic pill bottle with screw on cap mounted to the side of the chassis. Has a hose out the bottom that runs down to a T fitting coming off what looks like a rubber boot protruding from the firewall. The other hose from that T is going down and under the truck towards the back... to the tranny I assume.
The bottle was empty. Added DOT 5 fluid. Hard to see any level markings but added to about 1/4" from the top. Replaced cap and worked the clutch pedal for a bit. Checked the fluid and level was the same.
NOTE: After watching the video I posted below I realize I did not remove that black insert in the reservoir.
Started the truck and was able to get it in gear with no grinding but still not getting much play before it engages. Better than before I lost it all but not completely there yet.
I assume I need to now bleed it.
I found this video on Youtube. This seems like a nightmare job if I have to do what this guy is doing. Can someone take a look and advise, please.
#7
The air is bleed out threw the bottle.
Take out out drivers side inside plastic fender an tire.
You will then clearly see the clutch master in the fire wall.
In the cab undo the push rod from the peddle. The rod will not come out of the master, once its locked in it set for life.
Now go to the fire wall out side an 1/4 turn the master towards the motor it should pop free be able pulled out.
Slowly rotate the master with the push rod to the ground lines at the top.
Take the cap off the filler an have some one watch the fluid level an for bubbles while you push up the push rod slowly.
Once its full an no air it will be really stiff an unmoveable.
Reinstall the master feel for the lock groove 1/4 turn down towards the motor an up to lock it in place. Hook the push rod an reinstall the plastic liner.
Keep a eye on fluid level as you might have a leak else were.
I personally have a leak on my slave an have to top up every 2-3 days
Take out out drivers side inside plastic fender an tire.
You will then clearly see the clutch master in the fire wall.
In the cab undo the push rod from the peddle. The rod will not come out of the master, once its locked in it set for life.
Now go to the fire wall out side an 1/4 turn the master towards the motor it should pop free be able pulled out.
Slowly rotate the master with the push rod to the ground lines at the top.
Take the cap off the filler an have some one watch the fluid level an for bubbles while you push up the push rod slowly.
Once its full an no air it will be really stiff an unmoveable.
Reinstall the master feel for the lock groove 1/4 turn down towards the motor an up to lock it in place. Hook the push rod an reinstall the plastic liner.
Keep a eye on fluid level as you might have a leak else were.
I personally have a leak on my slave an have to top up every 2-3 days
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#9
Take a look here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...ding-help.html
pulling the system to bench bleed is still a problem IMO. Too many chances of leaking air. read thru the link above and it will depend on you mech ability to do the different techniques. Biggest problem is air is trapped in master at the junction of the line and the piston.
pulling the system to bench bleed is still a problem IMO. Too many chances of leaking air. read thru the link above and it will depend on you mech ability to do the different techniques. Biggest problem is air is trapped in master at the junction of the line and the piston.
#10
Not sure why it is necessary to remove that master in the first place. If you do as in this video to make sure fluid is flowing from the bottle out the drain port first so no air in the slave, close the drain and then remove the hose to the tranny why can't you simply do the bleed this way with it still installed?
Add more fluid to the bottle, have someone press on the clutch and open that fitting that was connected to the tranny (and to the slave cylinder).
The video says you can press on the end of that fitting and it will open it a tad to allow fluid to escape. When the pedal is firm again reinstall in tranny and top off bottle.
Seems pulling it out gives more chance for air to get in.
Am I wrong?
Add more fluid to the bottle, have someone press on the clutch and open that fitting that was connected to the tranny (and to the slave cylinder).
The video says you can press on the end of that fitting and it will open it a tad to allow fluid to escape. When the pedal is firm again reinstall in tranny and top off bottle.
Seems pulling it out gives more chance for air to get in.
Am I wrong?
#11
#12
The reason y the master has to come out a flip is cause it sit on such a steep angle in the fire wall any air trapped is at the top of the master an no amout of peddle pushing will remove it.
The steps i wrote before are the same as a bench bleed just its in the truck. Any air trapped in the slave will come up once fluid is put in as fluid wants to sink an air wants tp rise on top. Flipping the master lets that air rise out the bottle
The steps i wrote before are the same as a bench bleed just its in the truck. Any air trapped in the slave will come up once fluid is put in as fluid wants to sink an air wants tp rise on top. Flipping the master lets that air rise out the bottle
#14
I hope I won't be flogged for asking this on some one else's thread but..... What is the significance of the rubber insert in the reservoir to the clutch system? I took mine out just to make it hold more in-between top offs just until I can find the time to replace my leaking clutch slave cylinder.
#15
When I removed the insert and poured the fluid in to the bottle I had air bubbles coming up so there is air in the system for sure. With the crummy weather and being short on time (need the truck for some long work travel this coming weekend) I took it to the Ford dealership I trust to do it right.
Hoping the bleed will do the trick but as someone pointed out the fluid has to be going somewhere. Hoping it's not the slave that's leaking.
If so, can keeping an eye on the reservoir keep me going for the foreseeable future?
Not wanting to spend a ton on this 200,000+ mile 1997 I bought used for $1500.
Thanks!
Hoping the bleed will do the trick but as someone pointed out the fluid has to be going somewhere. Hoping it's not the slave that's leaking.
If so, can keeping an eye on the reservoir keep me going for the foreseeable future?
Not wanting to spend a ton on this 200,000+ mile 1997 I bought used for $1500.
Thanks!