In the middle of water pump change.

Not all the way done, just removed it and am soaking thermostat housing and all bolts in degreaser over night.

See my picture of timing chain cover. Is this indicative of a leak between housing and block?

Check out buildup inside water pump too

Any tips from this point on and remainder of installation?


Thank you

 

 

That picture is also water pump plate with buildup, also soaking in degreaser over night

Comments, observations?

Also doing all new hoses

 

How many miles on this engine?
Have you considered doing the timing chain while you're 90% there?

The backing plate looks fine.

On the back of the timing cover -where water passes through into the block- there should be a little channel on each side, so coolant comes out instead of going into the crankcase and making a milkshake.
The same way the waterpump weep hole lets you know before it fails completely.

 

It has 94k on it and I've never done it before so I was not planning on it if all possible. I am not sure timing chain is in my comfort zone

Reason for changing is water was beginning to drop out of lower weep hole on ater pump

You mention where water flows through channels on each side of timing cover, those looked relatively clean. I don't see smaller channels you mention though??

 

You won't see them.

Next time you are at the parts store ask to see a timing cover (if they have one)
Flip it over and you will understand.

Or have a look at this Fel-Pro gasket on Ebay.
See the channel on the inside of each water passage?
These act exactly like the weep hole on the pump.
Letting the coolant escape when the gasket (or timing case) fails.




http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fel-Pro-TCS45129-Gasket-Timing-Cover-Cork-Rubber-Ford-460-V8-Kit-/390989406707?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b08c8e1f3&vxp=mtr

 

At almost 100k, I would DEFINITELY at least check the chain for slop.

Yes, it's peeling another layer off the front of your engine.
But if the chain is bad, you get to do everything you've just done... again.

Remove the distributor cap.
Get a good visual of the rotor and take a breaker bar to the crank bolt inside the pulley.
Turn it one way and watch the rotor move.
Note where the breaker bar is pointing. (i.e. ~1:30)
Reverse direction and see how far you have to turn the crank before you see the rotor move back the other way.

This is all slop in the timing chain.

Fortunately for you, EFI 460's did away with the nylon cam gear and HyVo style chain of the carbureted models.