1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

8.8 explorer rear end

  #16  
Old 01-22-2015, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 56panelford
So I may need them
They shouldn't be in the way. I'll be putting one in later in my build.
 
  #17  
Old 01-22-2015, 12:37 PM
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So I should pick one up with the diff when I get it then
 
  #18  
Old 01-22-2015, 12:39 PM
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Yes. Just make sure they don't cut them off with a torch.
 
  #19  
Old 01-22-2015, 12:40 PM
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Hopefully I'll be there when that happens.
 
  #20  
Old 01-22-2015, 12:59 PM
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you want the driveshaft flange also, then you can run an adapter u joint also.

or maybe the whole driveshaft also
 
  #21  
Old 01-22-2015, 01:04 PM
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Thanks for that info
 
  #22  
Old 01-22-2015, 01:29 PM
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I actually used a Lincoln mark vii 8.8 rearend on mine I used the whole drivetrain.

I used the e brake lines, swaybar and mounts even the driveshaft fit.

on an explorer 8.8 I would use all that, heck I would even cut off the existing perches and weld them back on where I wanted them. I would reuse the u bolts and u bolt plate also. I would even take the brake flex line if it looked good lol.

they should pretty much throw in that stuff, except maybe the drive line.

sometimes it easier to use what you got rather than order and find stuff.
 
  #23  
Old 01-22-2015, 04:44 PM
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So what size of spacers would be needed to be able to clear the bed. I heard of the 3 inch spacers with longer studs. would anybody know where to get the 3 inch spacers and what would be a part number or the actual size of studs needed.
 
  #24  
Old 01-22-2015, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ETOWN55
So what size of spacers would be needed to be able to clear the bed. I heard of the 3 inch spacers with longer studs. would anybody know where to get the 3 inch spacers and what would be a part number or the actual size of studs needed.
I don't think you would need 3" spacer's. Maybe 1 1/2 " per side. It all depends on what rim backspacing you have.
 
  #25  
Old 01-22-2015, 08:08 PM
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I plan to put 20X10 wheels with a 45mm offset on the rear.. Im going to install a crown victoria IFS up front.
 
  #26  
Old 01-22-2015, 08:12 PM
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I also plan to get the 3 inch wider rear fenders.
 
  #27  
Old 01-23-2015, 08:58 AM
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I haven't put on a box or fenders yet so I don't know about backspacing but I will say my wheels I put on will have negative spacing.
Don't cut off the sway bar mounts look at what I did.
 
  #28  
Old 01-23-2015, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary E
I actually used a Lincoln mark vii 8.8 rearend on mine I used the whole drivetrain.

I used the e brake lines, swaybar and mounts even the driveshaft fit.

on an explorer 8.8 I would use all that, heck I would even cut off the existing perches and weld them back on where I wanted them. I would reuse the u bolts and u bolt plate also. I would even take the brake flex line if it looked good lol.

they should pretty much throw in that stuff, except maybe the drive line.

sometimes it easier to use what you got rather than order and find stuff.
I agree 100%!! Use everything you can from the other system. I did buy other perches but, I did get the drive shaft also. It will need to be cut and adapted for the Chevy transmission but I know it will work.
 
  #29  
Old 01-23-2015, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ETOWN55
The axle housing is 3.25 inches and the stock leaf springs are 2 inches wide.
When I pulled my explorer rear from the pick and pull yard, I also took the ubolts and mounts from the donor. I know I will need to get new, correct size perches, but I was thinking of reusing the mounts to mount my rear end in the F1. I seen a posting from another build were the guy cut a section out of the explorer mounts lengthwise then welded back together to account for the different spring width size (explorer spring width and stock F1 spring). He also cut off the shock mount and welded to the axle to keep the rear shocks in the stock location. I'm not sure how good of an option this is.... This is a cheap option (repurpose what I have) but I don't know how well it will work out. Has anybody else attempted this?
 
  #30  
Old 01-23-2015, 04:04 PM
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I have seen a few options for shocks. Some people use the stock lower mount bolt and weld it to the new plate then retain the stock location. I have seen complete custom mounts with new tabs welded to the tube and a new cross bar welded at the frame to change shock location for a further outboard setup (the further out the more it helps, usually)
 

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