Checked the uppipe twice looks good cleared the nipple on the intake checked the hose for cracks everything is plugged in no whistle at idle and boost gauge stays at 0. I don't hear any leaks ran my hand up along the Y pipe felt nothing leaking if I put the truck in drive and hold the brake hit the gas the needle will move very little. I checked the cac boots they look good but something is def not right this thing is running me in circles turbo worked great before this. Also put new seals and cleaned the turbo while it was out.

 

following the KISS principle, is the vgt plugged in? map?

 

I have checked all the plugs everything is plugged in ran a coat hanger down the brass nipple on top of the intake crazy thing is it felt tuff to get it in but it went and I made sure it was unclogged the egr valve itself was left in the intake but the cooler was removed checked the vgt with a scan2 and it was at 45 at idle then as I drove it went to 14 still with no boost

 

Last time I saw one like that, map and coolant valve hoses were mixed up.

 

should be 85. vgt only shows desired not actual. the vgt actuator is wicked sensitive to crud as well.

 

I'm not sure how to post a pic I'll take a couple then try to figure out how to post

 

 

The plastic on the hose to the map is peeled back from me checking for holes or tears

 

Are you sure the egr Delete is sealed properly under the intake? Are the egr bolts tight and orings in good shape? I have left the egr bolts loose before.

 

I'm going to pull the turbo and go back thru everything make sure it's tight weird thing is I don't hear any kinda air leaking runs good besides not having boost lol I am still having to drive it to work everyday because it's my dd I only live a half mile from work hope it doesn't hurt anything but my oil temp and coolant temp stay pretty much spot on.

 

I had the same problem when I did my egr cooler delete. Eventually I figured out that when I removed the egr valve the mounting flanges bent upwards so when I reinstalled it, even after tapping it in place with a 2x4 and lubing the o-rings, the valve wasn't sitting all the way in even though the bolts were tight, so the result was an air leak and no boost. fixed that and was good to go

 

I'm gonna try that today when I get off work I appreciate all the advise should I be able to feel the air coming out

 

Generally if its an exhaust leak,, you would show some boost. I've seen many of these from map issues. Plus,, the map hose goes under the heater core feed hose.

 

Could the map sensor itself get plugged?

 

Anything is possible, It is cheap to replace.