E4OD Leaking fluid when hot, round 2!
#16
#17
#18
#19
yeah the seal is less than 10 bucks.it's the labor that's gunna get ya.you can do it yourself too."generally" it's just a matter of dropping the trans,sliding out the converter,picking out the old seal and tapping in another and done.
i didn't get so lucky with log truck as the bushing in the pump walked forward and i educated myself on what to do there too.i learned the hard way with 5 trans pulls but now i have more experience there to tackle front pump issues down the road.
by the sounds of it,you probably don't have bushing issues and it just needs a seal.when the bushing walks forward,it blocks off the drain back hole in the pump and pushes the fluid past the seal.........that's a gush! lol.
yours is 2wd right? you can drop that trans,replace the seal and have it back in,even if you've not pulled a trans before well inside a day.have ya got a floor jack?
see that drain tube though.you can get under there and pull that off and take a look.it may just be holding what already leaked past the overheated seal and that's just whats dripping.so don't be in a big hurry to replace the seal until ya keep an eye on it for a bit.
i didn't get so lucky with log truck as the bushing in the pump walked forward and i educated myself on what to do there too.i learned the hard way with 5 trans pulls but now i have more experience there to tackle front pump issues down the road.
by the sounds of it,you probably don't have bushing issues and it just needs a seal.when the bushing walks forward,it blocks off the drain back hole in the pump and pushes the fluid past the seal.........that's a gush! lol.
yours is 2wd right? you can drop that trans,replace the seal and have it back in,even if you've not pulled a trans before well inside a day.have ya got a floor jack?
see that drain tube though.you can get under there and pull that off and take a look.it may just be holding what already leaked past the overheated seal and that's just whats dripping.so don't be in a big hurry to replace the seal until ya keep an eye on it for a bit.
For safety's sake, especially for a first timer, I recommend using a transmission jack. They have a pretty good one @ HF or you can just rent one. The E4OD is a monster.
I had a transmission slip of a floor jack once, still have a scar from that one. Most unpleasant.
800 lb. Low Lift Transmission Jack
I have that one at work ^^^ One use and it pays for itself.
#20
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
Posts: 18,724
Likes: 0
Received 37 Likes
on
31 Posts
with all the trans iv dropped over the years,i sure would feel some spoiled with the right jack......im putting that on my "tools list" when i get my shop built.
fell free to post up a modern chart Mark.that's just something i grabbed via quick google.
looks about like what im agreement with though.i suppose you could push the temps up a bit more than back in the day,there's really no reason to go beyond 240F range.with a good aux cooler setup like the tru-cool he's got ordered,he probably wont ever see over 210F anyway.
looks about like what im agreement with though.i suppose you could push the temps up a bit more than back in the day,there's really no reason to go beyond 240F range.with a good aux cooler setup like the tru-cool he's got ordered,he probably wont ever see over 210F anyway.
#21
the toque converter does not lock in second gear. ever. so when speeds drop due to step hills the converter will make a lot of heat, stock converters can turn blue from the heat,, warp and melt or weaken the seal. get a large plate type cooler. and if you rebuild it its about $3,800 get a triple lock billet low stall converter if no turbo,standard stall with turbo
#22
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
Posts: 18,724
Likes: 0
Received 37 Likes
on
31 Posts
i used to think that as well until stated otherwise on here.i found a hill where she would remain in 2nd starting out on and i hit the hazards and sure enough while in 2nd,the converter unlocked.i could just never tell it locked up in those situations until i checked it out.
#23
see that drain tube though.you can get under there and pull that off and take a look.it may just be holding what already leaked past the overheated seal and that's just whats dripping.so don't be in a big hurry to replace the seal until ya keep an eye on it for a bit.
You guys are way too good with these trucks. I'm starting to think that the only reason there are still E4OD's on the road is because of these forums, if it weren't for you guys they'd probably have all been crushed by now
#24
Diesel PCM's ask for lockup after the shift to 3rd gear. when speed is 28-35 mph, only two ways to get lock up in second gear, if the PCM down shifts the trans and you have not touched the brake at WOT. or if the trans is over heated. some 91-92 gasser f 150's PCM's would lock in second gear. In most normal operational parameters the factory 89-92 Diesel E4od will not call for lock up. some later years may as PCM's changed and went to pulse with modulation to control line pressure and shift feel. if your e4od shifts to OD when below 70 degree's internal temp, you have a malfunctioning sending unit. there are several different e4od PCM's including police, and ambulance, that have different shift points I am not certain of compatibility with Diesel applications.
#25
I got the vent cover off today. Just like you guys said, there was some fluid in the bottom and the vent cover was acting like a reservoir. I cleaned it up and put it back on, then took it for a drive.
I noticed that after the drive, there was a little droplet hanging off the end of the tube, and it looked a little misty. I'm hoping that's just the vent tube doing its job and not fluid still getting past the seal. I'm not gonna worry about it for now, just gonna keep tabs on it and see what happens.
In the mean time, the cooler and gauge will have to wait. I have to give up my truck for a week or two and drive the POS Lincoln. The driver seat is badly broken and it's not safe to drive on the freeway currently, so we're playing musical cars: I get the deathtrap, my dad gets my truck, and my brother gets my dads truck. Somehow I think I got the short end of the stick here
#27
Yup, no more mountain roads for a while. It's going to be a strictly freeway baby for a while.
Hey, while I'm thinking about it, since the trans needs to be dropped to fix the seal, is it worth swapping in a new low-stall torque converter? My truck is just a daily driver, but it feels like the entire low RPM range is being wasted. My TC gets the engine to the high RPM range pretty fast, but there ain't anything up there except noise and bad MPG
Since I hopefully have some time to save money, I might as well make the most of it if it's a worthwhile upgrade. What do you guys think?
Hey, while I'm thinking about it, since the trans needs to be dropped to fix the seal, is it worth swapping in a new low-stall torque converter? My truck is just a daily driver, but it feels like the entire low RPM range is being wasted. My TC gets the engine to the high RPM range pretty fast, but there ain't anything up there except noise and bad MPG
Since I hopefully have some time to save money, I might as well make the most of it if it's a worthwhile upgrade. What do you guys think?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Golden Helmet
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
7
09-17-2014 10:28 PM
wal1809
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
9
07-01-2012 03:10 PM
rackhound
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
18
07-07-2011 12:07 PM
cbslayer
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
06-23-2008 06:23 AM