Hi all

So I have kind of a unique problem (I think). The truck starts up after a 2-3 seconds of cranking when cold and it fires right up.

When it is warm, if I shut it off and run into the store or anything, it cranks for 35-45 seconds then it seems to suddenly crank a little faster and 3-5 seconds later it fires but its like a sluggish fire and chugs for a couple seconds before normal idle.

Sometimes it is a no start though. It will crank and crank until the batteries die with no change in cranking speed until they start dying.

New, non reman, starter
2 new batteries
T500 Hpop
new oil (tried Delo 400, currently Rotella 15-40)

Fuel pressure ~50psi and varies 1-2 psi when trying to start


Please help

 

You mentioned a no start that will sometimes kill the batteries. Is that only when warm, or does that also happen cold?

 

Only when warm. No problems starting when cold. No problems starting when plugged in for the winter nights either. Only after truck has been running and gotten up to temperature

 

Only when warm. No problems starting when cold. No problems starting when plugged in for the winter nights either. Only after truck has been running and gotten up to temperature

 

I think it might be the ipr orings. The ipr in in front of the fuel bowl on drivers side has a tin nut on it and a electrical connector on it. Takes something like a 22mm wrench to get it out. Should be able to order some o rings for it from riff raff diesel and clean and replace the orings in a few hours

 

Sounds like IPR or maybe injector o-rings. Any signs of oil on your fuel filter?

 

I would look at ICP, IPR, and CMP. Using AE will eliminate the ICP, IPR immediately or lead you in the right direction.

 

Any chance you have a scanner to monitor vitals like Injector control pressure and duty cycle? You can use an app called Torque Pro for cheap. It would be interesting to see these values when cold compared to operating temp. Swamps has a write up that has a section about starting problems when hot but I can't seem to put my finger on it right now.

 

No oil in fuel filter

I replaced the injector o- rings about 8k miles ago

I believe I replaced the icp but don't remember off the top of my head

Replaced cmp in the summer but the bolt had worked its way free which is why I thought bad cmp in first place but was just loose and so would cut out randomly. Might have to check to make sure bolt is still tight

Any way to test the ipr?

I don't have any way to monitor. Will look at the app

 

Found it. Good reading. I was referring to the last paragraph in my post above.

 

It is a good read. Going from that it sounds fpr or injector poppet valves since the other potential problems have been addressed.

Now I probably won't like the answer but is there any way to replace poppet without replacing the injectors? Everywhere it looks like injectors are going to be out of my price range

 

Next step is to monitor your vitals as mentioned. Get the Torque Pro app for your phone and set it up per the Torque thread on this site started by Tugly. Once you get it up and running we should be able to diagnose your issue.

Hopefully it's the IPR but not sure why it would ***** the bed when at operating temp. How many miles on your rig/injectors?

Edit: Negative on the poppet valve replacement.

 

Figured that was the case.

The truck has 203k on it. Injectors have about that if I had to guess. Pulled the valve covers before and #8 had a different injector AD or AC something. I know it was different than the rest so I don't know if they all were changed or just that one

 

I've heard of IPRs dying when warm. The solenoids fail when they get hot. Next time it happens pour some ice down around the IPR and give it a few minutes to cool. If it starts normally that's likely the issue. Solenoids are not available separately, gotta buy the whole enchilada.

Or with the previously mentioned Torque app and a cheap you can read the ICP pressure. If it falls flat when warm you know the IPR is not holding the pressure. Injectors need oil pressure to work.

#8 injector is different from the factory. It's called a long lead as it gives a longer time lead for the initial squirt of fuel. The idea was to quiet injector cackle.

That's plenty of miles on the injectors but there's no reason to think they are done yet. If you had a hard time starting cold, that would be more like tired injectors.

 

Oh and is there an app for iphone as it seems the torque pro is for android