Power Steering Return Line Problem
#1
Power Steering Return Line Problem
Need some advice on sealing the return line fitting at topof the power steering gear box. No matter how much I tighten it, seems to want to keep leaking. I even bough t a new return line and it still leaks. I tried a little plumbers tape and it slowed it down but it still wants to leak. I’m looking for any tips to help resolve the issue! Thank you in advance! (Also, I’ve already installed a re-man gearbox and inspected the threads before I put it all together, it all looked good to me.)
#3
1973 F250 2WD and looks just like this one 1970-1979 Ford 2-Wheel Drive Power Steering Gear | RedHeadSteeringGears.com
#4
How does the nipple look? Any damage, pitting, cracks, dents ect?. It should be a low pressure connection and easy to seal. The other possibility is there is a blockage in other parts of the return line like the cooler which increases pressure. I would suggest visual inspection of the nipple and all the tubing between the PS box and pump. Also blow some compressed air through to verify the tube is clear. If all is good a new rubber hose and new clamp should do it. No tape or sealer needed.
#5
Take the line off and look into the port of the steering box, you'll see a tapered brass seat that does the actual sealing. More than likely there is going to be a groove, nick or other damage to the seat. If there is, it's not going to seal.
These can be replaced and it's not too hard. They're installed with a light press fit.
The way I do it is take a tap and pack the flutes with grease, this will help keep the filings from getting into the hydraulic system, tap the hole in the seat, get a long screw, some flat washers and nut. Spin the nut onto the screw, place the flat washer under the nut, screw the screw into the seat. Now tighten the nut against the flat washer, this will pull the seat out.
To put the new one in, place it in the port and gently tap it in enough so you can start the hose fitting. Make sure the fitting is started correctly and not cross threaded, then tighten the fitting until it seats.
The return line is 3/8". While you're there, consider replacing the inlet also, that one's 5/16".
Also, the threads of the fitting actually have nothing to do with the sealing. Putting teflon tape on them doesn't do anything.
3/8" seat p/n 374480-S
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 96 (800) 543-4959
Dennis Carpenter, Concord, NC has 5 (704) 786-8139
Harbin Motor Co., Scottsboro, AL has 2 (256) 574-1819
The 5/16" inlet seat is 374309-S
Green has 19
Dennis Carpenter has 5
Harbin has 1
These can be replaced and it's not too hard. They're installed with a light press fit.
The way I do it is take a tap and pack the flutes with grease, this will help keep the filings from getting into the hydraulic system, tap the hole in the seat, get a long screw, some flat washers and nut. Spin the nut onto the screw, place the flat washer under the nut, screw the screw into the seat. Now tighten the nut against the flat washer, this will pull the seat out.
To put the new one in, place it in the port and gently tap it in enough so you can start the hose fitting. Make sure the fitting is started correctly and not cross threaded, then tighten the fitting until it seats.
The return line is 3/8". While you're there, consider replacing the inlet also, that one's 5/16".
Also, the threads of the fitting actually have nothing to do with the sealing. Putting teflon tape on them doesn't do anything.
3/8" seat p/n 374480-S
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 96 (800) 543-4959
Dennis Carpenter, Concord, NC has 5 (704) 786-8139
Harbin Motor Co., Scottsboro, AL has 2 (256) 574-1819
The 5/16" inlet seat is 374309-S
Green has 19
Dennis Carpenter has 5
Harbin has 1
#6
#7
I'm not talking about the flare in the end of the line, although if that was damaged it would also cause a leak. I'm talking about the port in the steering box itself, where the line screws in. There is a tapered brass seat in the port. The seal between that seat and the flare on the line is what actually seals the line.
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#8
I'm not talking about the flare in the end of the line, although if that was damaged it would also cause a leak. I'm talking about the port in the steering box itself, where the line screws in. There is a tapered brass seat in the port. The seal between that seat and the flare on the line is what actually seals the line.
Check-check! I'll be inspecting the brass fitting!
#9
#10
As mikeo0o0o0 stated, its probably the internal seat. I had the exact problem on a newly re-built unit and it was the seat.
Check out this thread. On the second page I posted a picture of the old and new seats which shows the problem.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ring-leak.html
Check out this thread. On the second page I posted a picture of the old and new seats which shows the problem.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ring-leak.html
#11
The rebuilt box came with two o-rings, the old box didn't have them at the fittings so I didn't use them. Starting to make since... Cheaper to throw two pieces of rubber in the box than replace the brass fittings. (((Cheap)))
#12
As mikeo0o0o0 stated, its probably the internal seat. I had the exact problem on a newly re-built unit and it was the seat.
Check out this thread. On the second page I posted a picture of the old and new seats which shows the problem.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ring-leak.html
Check out this thread. On the second page I posted a picture of the old and new seats which shows the problem.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ring-leak.html
Thanks!!! As they say; a picture is worth a thousand words!
#13
So yeah, I can safely say "you guys nailed it!" I've been working on cars/trucks since I was 12 years old helping out the old man. Still feel like a rookie most days! Thanks fella's, really appreciate the input. I'm going to order the brass seats and fix the steering box the right way. I went ahead put the o-ring in until the parts and my schedule will allow me to fix it correctly.
#14
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