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Very nice looking grille , is that aluminum like the one on my truck and how much is that one? Do you sell other parts? If so do you have a website? Thanks

 

Thanks 71, would anyone have any ideas as for as new wheels? Nice pics would help with ideas.

 

Hey 69redandwhite, check your in box.

 

Mine is lowered 4 in the front and 5 in the back. Like I said, everything is bolt up, so you can drop it down and ride it, and when/if you ever sell it, you can take out the lowering kit and put it right back to stock height if you want too.

As for price, as of right now, here is the value of my truck per NADA with no options:


Retail LOW Average High
Base Price $2,357 $10,450 $14,250 $25,200

Before anyone says anything, I know you cant go by these prices, but this is what this tells me........that the price of these trucks are going up and up. I keep up with this, and here is what it was on 1/9/2005:

Retail LOW Average High
Base price $2357 $6625 $10,600 $14,150

Ive seen junk "shop trucks" on ebay go for $12K plus, its just worth what someone is willing to pay for it. I recently (last September 2014) turned down an offer of $15,000 and didnt even think about.

 

ultra, I would like to ad PS,PB,and you mentioned dentside front discs which I don't know what those are ? Like I said new to site and learning by reading some articles but I don't claim to be a mechanic. So if I can possibly start with PS, PB or should I clean motor first? Sorry just looking for best and easiest place to start for newbie? Looking at your posts you seem to be very knowledgeable. Thanks

 

Thanks for information, are there articles on the trucks that have sold for high dollar. Need to see what direction I might have to go. Don't think would sell but would like to go in the right direction, truck has sentimental value.

 

Stick around and you'll learn all the terms and acronyms, from the conversations, soon enough.

'Bumpside' is in reference to the 1967-1972 F-series trucks, because the (convex) body contour running down the belt line of the truck looks like a bump.

'Dentside' is in reference to the concave body belt line contour of the 1973-1979 F-series trucks. It looks like a dent.

1973-1979 F100 Dentside and 1975-1979 Dentside F150 front disc brakes/I-beams are directly interchangeable with 1967-1972 F100s. (actually, with '65-'72 F100 models).

No Bumpside F100s came from the factory with front disc brakes. Disc brakes didn't become optional until 1968, and that was only on the F250 and F350 trucks. The front discs could have been either manual or power assist.

Starting in 1973 though, disc brakes were standard equipment on all F100-F350s, also in either manual or power assist.

Personally, for me, the FIRST thing I would do on one of these old trucks is completely go through the brakes. The brakes seem to have a propensity for going out shortly after you buy one of these old trucks --particularly one that's been sitting up for a long time.

--two days after I purchased my '69 F100, the right rear wheel cylinder blew out while I was on my way home from work. After I got home, I stripped all the old brake components off and replaced them with all brand new components.

The vehicle's ability to go doesn't mean too much, if you can't stop it.

 

I dont know if I could find articles of trucks sold for high dollar. I do have a friend who sold an original 14,000 mile boxwood green 68 Ranger for $23K and the current owner is asking $26K, and how is listed now having 17,000 miles. Another friend of mine repainted it several years ago:
1968 Classic ONE OWNER Ford F 100
One gentleman who used to be on here (phil) restored a 1972 Ranger XLT for $18K.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=41334

I would keep my eye on ebay, deals on wheels, craigslist, hemming, etc. and get a feel for what sells and how much. Main thing is if your going to do a mild restore, try and keep everything that was originally sold on the truck no matter what. When I redone my interior, I kept everything, even the carpet which was not really in bad shape, but I just decided to freshen up the interior. Especially keep original door panels. 69 they make a reproduction panel, but its not exactly like an original. In my case, they dont reproduce 68 panels the last time I checked. All those little things like that equate to more money the buyer will throw at you if they know you have the original equipment. Stay away from cutting anything, especially where the radio belongs, etc......most people want an original truck uncut.

I myself wanted mine to be extremely original inside and out, with the exception of being lowered because I think these trucks look better that way, and Im happy with the results.

 

Since you asked for opinions, here is mine.
That truck appears to be in really good condition. I wish mine was that nice. I myself like to keep it original. So my opinion is to keep it stock. However in the end it is your truck. Do with it as you wish.

 

Just wanted to say thanks ultra for the feedback. I have been spending a lot of time reading your posts. I wished you lived in my town so I could follow you around and watch and learn. Keep posting its awesome information!! Thanks again

 

Thanks for the compliment. There's a great deal I've learned in the time I first started turning wrenches with my dad when I was 13. That was 36 years ago. At the same time, there's still plenty that I don't know.

Most of my mechanical experience comes from working on and modifying vintage Mustangs. Many of the parts are different from an old F-series truck but, most of the basics apply to either.

I still have my first car --a '68 Mustang that I bought in 1982 when I was 15. The first vehicle I learned to drive though, was my dad's red & white '68 F100 short bed Ranger.

This is why 4 years ago, I decided to 'return to my roots' and I found and bought a short bed '69 F100 to modify and fix it up.

There was a time when I (and everyone else here) didn't know anything about old Ford trucks, Mustangs or whatever kind of vehicle they may have. Experience will come with time. Read and learn all you can from books, manuals, forums and from people's personal experiences. --the internet didn't exist for the majority of years that I've been a gear head.

You have a great tool on your side in this corridor to instant information.

Steve

 

Most vehicles are 20 footers, the closer you get the more imperfections you see. Fix the imperfections, that means replacing pitted chrome parts, replacing soft trim that is cracked or torn and repair rust all issues. Improve the quality of the vehicle before modifying.

 

Does anyone know of good engine builder in Colorado springs or pueblo area. My engine runs good but has some leaks. I am thinking about an engine rebuild or repair of my 360. Or any other direction anyone might think would be better. Thanks Also approximately how much will it cost to do a rebuild if anyone has done this recently.

 

If it runs well and just leaky, why not reseal it with fresh gaskets and seals?

Rebuild cost vary and depends what it needs, what you want, and parts selection. Budget at least $1,000 for machine work and a minimum of $1000 for parts and incidentals to build a long block.

 

Thanks hiosilver, what would resealing with new gaskets cost? Was wondering if it would be cost effective to rebuild at this time?