1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

keep original or lower and restore???

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  #46  
Old 01-20-2015, 12:56 PM
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An engine gasket set is right around $100 and your labor is free.

I suggest changing the timing set, oil pump, thermostat, and water pump. Add another $250.

Incidentals.. RTV, thread sealant, paint... add $40.
 
  #47  
Old 01-22-2015, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
An engine gasket set is right around $100 and your labor is free.

I suggest changing the timing set, oil pump, thermostat, and water pump. Add another $250.k

Incidentals.. RTV, thread sealant, paint... add $40.
Thanks hiosilver great info . Another question my grille is in need of some polishing anyone know best method to get grille to shine?
 
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Old 01-22-2015, 01:07 PM
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  #49  
Old 01-22-2015, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 69redandwhite
Thanks hiosilver great info . Another question my grille is in need of some polishing anyone know best method to get grille to shine?
Yeah. Buy one of Robert's (gangstakr) and send him yours as a core.
 
  #50  
Old 01-22-2015, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
Now this is fine and dangerous make sure you wear protective gear.
Hopefully you know how to do body work. For grilles 67-69 you will need to invest in some hammers and dollies. You'll also need to know how to make a hammer and fabricate dollies. I probably have 30 or more body hammers.
Here's a few you can buy. Doing grilles as a hobby, I need all these and then some.

Fairmount 17 Pc Master Hammer & Dolly Set

You'll also need a good anvil and a metal table with various edges. Makes life easier.
There's more needed such as polishing equipment.
Main tools needed: "Steel Cajones" a "sphincter grip" that can crush tin cans.
And the most important tool Medical insurance.
When you do as much of this as I do, you need all the above.
 
  #51  
Old 01-22-2015, 08:43 PM
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Never received price info

Originally Posted by gangstakr
Now this is fine and dangerous make sure you wear protective gear.
Hopefully you know how to do body work. For grilles 67-69 you will need to invest in some hammers and dollies. You'll also need to know how to make a hammer and fabricate dollies. I probably have 30 or more body hammers.
Here's a few you can buy. Doing grilles as a hobby, I need all these and then some.

Fairmount 17 Pc Master Hammer & Dolly Set

You'll also need a good anvil and a metal table with various edges. Makes life easier.
There's more needed such as polishing equipment.
Main tools needed: "Steel Cajones" a "sphincter grip" that can crush tin cans.
And the most important tool Medical insurance.
When you do as much of this as I do, you need all the above.
Gang, never received any information about prices for grilles.
 
  #52  
Old 01-22-2015, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 69redandwhite
Gang, never received any information about prices for grilles.
Check your P.M.
 
  #53  
Old 02-02-2015, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
Stick around and you'll learn all the terms and acronyms, from the conversations, soon enough.

'Bumpside' is in reference to the 1967-1972 F-series trucks, because the (convex) body contour running down the belt line of the truck looks like a bump.

'Dentside' is in reference to the concave body belt line contour of the 1973-1979 F-series trucks. It looks like a dent.

1973-1979 F100 Dentside and 1975-1979 Dentside F150 front disc brakes/I-beams are directly interchangeable with 1967-1972 F100s. (actually, with '65-'72 F100 models).

No Bumpside F100s came from the factory with front disc brakes. Disc brakes didn't become optional until 1968, and that was only on the F250 and F350 trucks. The front discs could have been either manual or power assist.

Starting in 1973 though, disc brakes were standard equipment on all F100-F350s, also in either manual or power assist.

Personally, for me, the FIRST thing I would do on one of these old trucks is completely go through the brakes. The brakes seem to have a propensity for going out shortly after you buy one of these old trucks --particularly one that's been sitting up for a long time.

--two days after I purchased my '69 F100, the right rear wheel cylinder blew out while I was on my way home from work. After I got home, I stripped all the old brake components off and replaced them with all brand new components.

The vehicle's ability to go doesn't mean too much, if you can't stop it.
Thanks ultra, been gone for awhile most people say keep original do you think it's okay to leave brakes the same just replace new parts if just using as a Sunday driver. Also does everyone on this site use other sites or subscribe to any truck magazines if so which ones? Thanks again!!
 
  #54  
Old 02-02-2015, 11:52 AM
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We're people not computers, everyone has different taste and values . Do it up however you like !! I never worry about the next guy, I do em the way I want. My '69 I gotin Dec. is actually the first 2wd I've owned and i'm 50 !, all have been jacked up . This will be my first lowering,. Hiosilver ,love that camo ! I can never seem to leave a truck the way it rolled out , gotta put my personality on it . Have fun man !!
 
  #55  
Old 02-02-2015, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 69redandwhite
Thanks ultra, been gone for awhile most people say keep original do you think it's okay to leave brakes the same just replace new parts if just using as a Sunday driver. Also does everyone on this site use other sites or subscribe to any truck magazines if so which ones? Thanks again!!
When my brakes went out on my truck, two days after I bought it, nearly four years ago, I went completely through it, front and rear and replace the MC with a new one (conventional cast iron type). I don't know the exact amount I spent refurbishing all four drums but it was something north of $500.00 dollars.

A few months back, I ripped out the front half and replaced it with a disc brake/I-beam setup from a '77 F100. There wasn't anything wrong with the conventional MC I installed, I just wanted to switch to a modern version, while I was converting the truck to front discs.

There wasn't anything wrong with the front drum brakes, other than the fact I just prefer discs instead. Brake modulation with discs is far better than with drums.

Keeping drums or switching to front discs is just something you would have to make the decision on. --although, you have to ask yourself, why did Ford make disc brakes standard equipment on the F100-F350s beginning in 1973, and discontinued the installation of front drums?

I'm also a member of Fordification.com and while not a member, I sometimes lurk at Ford Truck Fanatics website. I don't have any subscriptions to any automotive magazines.
 
  #56  
Old 02-02-2015, 02:36 PM
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I think "brake fade" is the #1 reason Ford and other manufacturers switched to discs. In a down hill or emergency stop you don't want to lose your brakes. Some are OK with their drum brakes. IMHO, discs all the way. And yes, my 68 F250 4X2 Camper Special has the factory optioned Disc Brakes.
 
  #57  
Old 02-02-2015, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
I think "brake fade" is the #1 reason Ford and other manufacturers switched to discs. In a down hill or emergency stop you don't want to lose your brakes. Some are OK with their drum brakes. IMHO, discs all the way. And yes, my 68 F250 4X2 Camper Special has the factory optioned Disc Brakes.
Concur.. drums are prone to brake fade under heavy usage due to the built-up thermal mass.. they're also difficult to cool down after hard use. And when cool or cold, they take a bit to warm up. Then ya thow a lil water in 'em and it takes a bit to dry or wipe them dry.

STORY: I was ferrying a 65 Mustang (now mine) back from PA where my brother stored it with my sis. Btwn Vail, CO and Salt Lake City, I narily touched the four-wheel drum brakse. While approaching a signalized intersection on the outskirts of SLC at 11 PM, I finally used got on them and found they were ice cold. YIKES... constant pumping and they finally took a bite and I ended up about 20 feet into the intersection with my heart almost jumping outta my chest. Thank goodness there was no cross-traffic cuz I wouldda become a hood ornament.
 
  #58  
Old 02-02-2015, 06:26 PM
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I personally would not mod a nice ride like that. If you've got the itch to build one, then sell that truck to somebody who wants a stocker, and buy a beater to slam. It saves the stocker and benefits the beater - win/win.
 

Last edited by gringo child; 02-03-2015 at 06:57 AM. Reason: didn't mean to diss beaters
  #59  
Old 02-02-2015, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by gringo child
I personally would not mod a nice ride like that. If you've got the itch to build one, then sell that truck to somebody who wants a stocker, and buy a beater to slam.
I wouldn't do any alterations to the body/frame that couldn't easily be undone.

However, factory front disc brake/I-beams from a Dentside truck are all bolt-on components.

They could be removed and the old drum brake setup put back on. --although, I don't understand why anyone would want to GO BACK to drum brakes.

Drop beams and rear shackles could be put on, so long as the truck isn't dropped enough to require notching the rear frame rails for axle housing clearance. These too could be removed and the original suspension put back on and no one would ever know it had been any different.
 
  #60  
Old 02-03-2015, 09:37 AM
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dont get upset

Originally Posted by Bowman-428
We're people not computers, everyone has different taste and values . Do it up however you like !! I never worry about the next guy, I do em the way I want. My '69 I gotin Dec. is actually the first 2wd I've owned and i'm 50 !, all have been jacked up . This will be my first lowering,. Hiosilver ,love that camo ! I can never seem to leave a truck the way it rolled out , gotta put my personality on it . Have fun man !!
I will eventually do it the way I will like it but I'm just asking for different ideas and options that I may have never considered or even know are out there. I hope I didn't upset you.
 


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