air intrusion rears its ugly head again in -4f
#1
air intrusion rears its ugly head again in -4f
well well well.. welcome back mr frosty negitive temperatures....
for some reason i only get air intrusion at negitive temperatures.
went to take the kid to the stop today, ol 6.9 had air intrusion, as it fired right up then died promptly after.
i cracked open 2 injectors, cranked a little while, tightened them back up and hit the glow plugs again, roar.. running again, forgot about this problem as it never happens unless its neg temps.
I even ordered a electric pump last spring to get it in for this winter, but its been so warm i forgot all about it. tell today.
what do you think is getting effected in negitives by this?
I think will do the bandaid repair of the electric pump install on my manual glow plug push button just so it primes while im heating the plugs then the manual lift pump will take over after its running. But i would like to eliminate this extreme cold air intrusion just for the sake of it.
85 6.9 new injectors and install kit with caps and lines and clamps.
glow plugs working 100% so thats not it. its "air intrusion" under only extreme cold temps for some reason.
for some reason i only get air intrusion at negitive temperatures.
went to take the kid to the stop today, ol 6.9 had air intrusion, as it fired right up then died promptly after.
i cracked open 2 injectors, cranked a little while, tightened them back up and hit the glow plugs again, roar.. running again, forgot about this problem as it never happens unless its neg temps.
I even ordered a electric pump last spring to get it in for this winter, but its been so warm i forgot all about it. tell today.
what do you think is getting effected in negitives by this?
I think will do the bandaid repair of the electric pump install on my manual glow plug push button just so it primes while im heating the plugs then the manual lift pump will take over after its running. But i would like to eliminate this extreme cold air intrusion just for the sake of it.
85 6.9 new injectors and install kit with caps and lines and clamps.
glow plugs working 100% so thats not it. its "air intrusion" under only extreme cold temps for some reason.
#2
If it runs for a second, then dies; my bet is around the filter area. The cold temperatures are shrinking everything, messing up your clearances. I'm not familiar with the 6.9 system, but in that area with the 7.3, the culprit is usually the fuel heater, or the filter gasket itself, but I'd wait for some more experience before taking my word.
#3
Join Date: Jul 2006
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it's hard to say because there are so many points of failure.
this is why the duralift with it's made to pull fuel design and built in check valve eliminates these issues because it's going to self prime and push fuel from there.you just don't have these troubles at all with the duralift (save for pinholes in the line or fuel pickup before it of course.)
e-pumps are not band-aids.they are a major upgrade with an engine designed to pull fuel up that has so many points of failure to leak.
i didn't put either of my trucks on the road with the stock mechanical because i didn't want these hassles.i turn the key,wait for the light,crank and she just starts every time.reliability aid sure.band aid nope.
i can say this; since my ownership of idi diesels in '09 (im a noobie) iv never had my engine not start up within 1 to 5 seconds regardless of temps without ever so much as even testing to see if a block heater works or not.
(save for ip swaps/fuel adjustments.)
this is why the duralift with it's made to pull fuel design and built in check valve eliminates these issues because it's going to self prime and push fuel from there.you just don't have these troubles at all with the duralift (save for pinholes in the line or fuel pickup before it of course.)
e-pumps are not band-aids.they are a major upgrade with an engine designed to pull fuel up that has so many points of failure to leak.
i didn't put either of my trucks on the road with the stock mechanical because i didn't want these hassles.i turn the key,wait for the light,crank and she just starts every time.reliability aid sure.band aid nope.
i can say this; since my ownership of idi diesels in '09 (im a noobie) iv never had my engine not start up within 1 to 5 seconds regardless of temps without ever so much as even testing to see if a block heater works or not.
(save for ip swaps/fuel adjustments.)
#4
well i did the block off the return at the flter head, didnt help, i see i have 2 leaking caps now after disturbing them. i think im going to just plumb the epump in and be done with it, not sure if i should put it between the mechanical pump and filter mount, but thats where im thinking, so i can tap te power off my glow plug relay so its just used as a primer.
you guys that totally replaced your mech pumps you are mounting yours at the tank correct? for longivity right? since its fulltime only pump? if so how are you dealing with them hard plastic lines mounting it that way? clamping over them with rubber hose?
you guys that totally replaced your mech pumps you are mounting yours at the tank correct? for longivity right? since its fulltime only pump? if so how are you dealing with them hard plastic lines mounting it that way? clamping over them with rubber hose?
#5
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15F out Skip and i just went and got the mail.i counted once the light went off and as i was cranking......1........i didn't have time to get to 2 and she was already running.no block heater and no bs.not even 2 second crank time.
then i just shut it off and walked down to the post office for the exercise.
well iv got info showing both my installs,but never did a proper write up article on one.someone did at OBN though.here;
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sho...tric-fuel-pump
note; most e-pumps are not built like these ones.most are made to push fuel only.meaning you would have to mount it under the truck by the fuel selector valve.
do not use a electric fuel pump full time to push through the oem lift pump.if it's diaphragm ruptures,you'll fill the crank case with diesel fuel.this could cause severer crank bearing ware,if not spinning a crank or rod bearing and destroying the engine.
no reason to introduce the issues of the 6.4l.
then i just shut it off and walked down to the post office for the exercise.
well iv got info showing both my installs,but never did a proper write up article on one.someone did at OBN though.here;
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sho...tric-fuel-pump
note; most e-pumps are not built like these ones.most are made to push fuel only.meaning you would have to mount it under the truck by the fuel selector valve.
do not use a electric fuel pump full time to push through the oem lift pump.if it's diaphragm ruptures,you'll fill the crank case with diesel fuel.this could cause severer crank bearing ware,if not spinning a crank or rod bearing and destroying the engine.
no reason to introduce the issues of the 6.4l.
#6
So ya yank the old 6 inch long rubber line going from the steel line to the mech lift pump. Give that piece a nice toss over your left shoulder. Slide you a new piece of fuel rated hose over that there steel line and run it to your pump. From da pump to da inlet on the filter head. Good to go
#7
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#8
That being said... instead of an electric pump, just get a squeeze-bulb. Works just as well for preventing 'air intrusion', and is a /lot/ cheaper($6 off ebay).
#9
already good to go on pump. will order some squeeze bulbs for my other idi's, this is the only one ive had with air intrusion problems.
#10
#13
That's what I plan on doing myself; it's the best of both worlds, the benefits of the e-pump with the simplicity and reliability of the mechanical pump.
What pump did you use? All the thru-flow one's I've found so far are Airtex, which I try to avoid, but I suppose for just a primer pump they should be okay.
Oddly enough all the years I've run IDIs I've never had a problem with air intrusion sans the issues the cone of failure causes. I'd just like the primer pump because I do run out of fuel on occasion thanks to wonky gauges and I'd like to save wear and tear on my starter and batteries.
What pump did you use? All the thru-flow one's I've found so far are Airtex, which I try to avoid, but I suppose for just a primer pump they should be okay.
Oddly enough all the years I've run IDIs I've never had a problem with air intrusion sans the issues the cone of failure causes. I'd just like the primer pump because I do run out of fuel on occasion thanks to wonky gauges and I'd like to save wear and tear on my starter and batteries.
#14
That's what I plan on doing myself; it's the best of both worlds, the benefits of the e-pump with the simplicity and reliability of the mechanical pump.
What pump did you use? All the thru-flow one's I've found so far are Airtex, which I try to avoid, but I suppose for just a primer pump they should be okay.
Oddly enough all the years I've run IDIs I've never had a problem with air intrusion sans the issues the cone of failure causes. I'd just like the primer pump because I do run out of fuel on occasion thanks to wonky gauges and I'd like to save wear and tear on my starter and batteries.
What pump did you use? All the thru-flow one's I've found so far are Airtex, which I try to avoid, but I suppose for just a primer pump they should be okay.
Oddly enough all the years I've run IDIs I've never had a problem with air intrusion sans the issues the cone of failure causes. I'd just like the primer pump because I do run out of fuel on occasion thanks to wonky gauges and I'd like to save wear and tear on my starter and batteries.
it warmed up and i got lazy and havent installed it yet! hehehe
heres it tho
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