I bought my 56 a few years ago from a used car dealer. During the years of restoration I had to replace the cab with one from a 53. Now that I am nearing the day I need to register it I am faced with the dilemma of what VIN to use. The Lady at the DMV said I would need to apply for a state issued VIN since the truck was built with spare parts. I don't want that.

Should I just apply for registration with the 56 frame VIN with the bill of sale from the dealer? Vermont does not require titles for cars over 15 years old so a title is a non issue. When and if the day comes I want to sell any possible buyer would see red flags of a 56 truck with a 53 cab.

 

There's really two separate issues here. Sounds like you may have a path to registration using the BOS from your original purchase. This would be OK - not great, just OK- for you.

The real issue is should you ever want to sell this beauty. If this will only be a concern for your heirs, we're done here. Should you consider selling during your lifetime, expect to get the 'no title' discount applied by any prospective buyers - especially if selling outside Vermont. Getting around a problem and dealing with it - especially where state government agencies are involved - are two very different things.

 

ONLY the number stamped in the frame is the legal ID/serial #. It doesn't matter what year or even if there is any sheet metal on it. If it is a 56 frame with a 56 year code in the stamped number it is a 56 truck. A future buyer may balk at it having a 53 cab, but that is between you and that buyer to iron out, but it doesn't change the year of the truck. If you want it to be a 53 truck, you'll have to find a 53 frame with a 53 serial number that can be registered and put that under the 53 cab. Many of our trucks have a mix of year and model parts on them. There is no reason to tell the DMV that any of the body parts are from a different year any more than you need to tell them it has a different year (or even make) engine or seats in it. Their is also no onus to having a truck with a new DMV issued VIN number either. That is often done when the frame number can't be found (such as on a frame that has been modified) or the stamp is illegible.

 

If there was a LIKE button I'd push it. I think you hit the nail on the head here. It's what I was thinking but needed the reinforcement.
On another note, the good old VT DMV doesn't care what you pay for a car ( in my case, $1500). They tax you on market value (at least $9000) according to their price guides.
If I would have gotten an appraisal when it was a $1500. truck I'd be taxed 6% on that. At this point any appraisal might be closer to the $9000. Bummer.

 

The NADA for a '56 is $9k ... ? Really?

 

no "Like" button, but you can certainly add reputation points to acknowledge good advice by clicking the "scales" button on the top right of the post from the person you wish to rep. No "real" reward, but it will let him know you appreciate the response, and let others know he knows his "stuff" (more green squares = more good reputation).

 

This is the online NADA for a '53. They didn't list any options such as deluxe cab or V8 engine.

 

They are smoking their socks. Those might be valid numbers for trucks that have been restored/repaired or rebuilt, in museum, etc. "As found" no way.

 

The problem with NADA is the prices are based on dealer sales, not private. So the price is artificially exaggerated, as most dealers are only going to have the top of the line trucks, not the true "average" trucks we see here every day. Even with that it looks pretty high though, doesn't it?

From Cars Direct:

"Issues with the NADA Values
One primary issue with the NADA value for a used car, however, is the fact that they make use solely of dealer sales prices. If you are planning to sell your vehicle to a private buyer, or if you're purchasing your car from an individual and not from a dealer, the dealer-based sale prices of the same model, year and make of vehicle are not going to be entirely helpful to you. Dealers tend to sell vehicles for quite a bit more money than individual sellers do, and the NADA guide does not always account for the various discounts and dealership incentive offers that are made in these cases.


A second reason to be cautious when dealing with NADA values is that this particular price guide only analyzes sales of cars in very clean condition. This accounts for a much larger percentage of dealer sales than it does individual sales; in fact, only a very small fraction of used cars sold on the individual market are in such good condition. For this reason, the NADA value for a vehicle may not be the most reliable gauge of price."

 

Hell, tax was paid on it when it was first sold anyway, and it was also registered for that matter. Oncet ought to be plenty. Anyway there's no practical way around this except maybe legislation that recognizes anything older than 30 or 40 years or so is likely (technically) worth a little more than scrap. They won't pass any kind of inspection, but average 17k in value? The tax rate exceeds the value of a "farm fresh" rebuilders special. Jeez Louise.

 

Depending on what you have in the truck you may be able to show a lower value. The original cost plus and receipts you have for parts = the value you put on it. If this is lower than the $9000 NADA they should except the receipts as the taxable amount. If you did the work yourself you don't have to show labor and of course some things purchased may not have receipts. Not saying lie but time is a great reason for misplacement of things - especially at my age! Good luck - have fun

 

You said, in your original post that you bought the truck from a dealer..didn't the dealer collect the tax at the time of the sale? That is the norm in most states. The sales tax paid should be indicated on your receipt.

 

Tax is only paid to DMV when car is registered. The truck was not roadworthy when I bought it ( and still isn't) so no registration was done. I will have about $10k into it by the time it's done, not including my labor.

 

And if purchased from a dealer, why didn't the dealer complete and file the transfer paperwork with the state? At this end of the country, it's a requirement for the dealer to collect tax and transfer the paperwork.

 

In California, they charge you tax on your own labor when building project vehicles and all of the parts.

In my experience, the dealer shouldn't have sold to you without collecting tax and transferring proper paperwork. Even a junkyard that sells a chassis must complete the proper paperwork. Can you get them to issue you a new bill of sale or complete the paperwork now at your as purchased price? That's what I'd do. Get them to complete their job.

good luck!

Doug