1952 F1 Engine decision
#1
1952 F1 Engine decision
Hello,
I was given the chance to buy an old 52 F1 at an estate sale this summer and have been constantly researching on what type on rod I want it to be. The truck needs work but I love the rat rod look and would like to keep it that way and drive it before spending cash in the exterior. It currently has a flat head V8 which would need to be rebuilt but I'm thinking of swapping it out with something else. The plan was always to find a 351 or 302 and make it run smoothly as I thought that would be a cheaper route to take. Ideally I would love to take it out a couple times a week to work but don't want to spend my pay check on fuel when I drive it.
The offer to buy a 427 engine out of a police interceptor for a great price was provided to me over the holidays and I'm just wondering if I should pursue it. A friend informed me that I may not want big horsepower now but I may have the cash to do it in the future. It's not that I don't LOVE horsepower but just thinking economical if I want to drive it around a lot. I'd love to hear some advise from some pros.
Thanks
I was given the chance to buy an old 52 F1 at an estate sale this summer and have been constantly researching on what type on rod I want it to be. The truck needs work but I love the rat rod look and would like to keep it that way and drive it before spending cash in the exterior. It currently has a flat head V8 which would need to be rebuilt but I'm thinking of swapping it out with something else. The plan was always to find a 351 or 302 and make it run smoothly as I thought that would be a cheaper route to take. Ideally I would love to take it out a couple times a week to work but don't want to spend my pay check on fuel when I drive it.
The offer to buy a 427 engine out of a police interceptor for a great price was provided to me over the holidays and I'm just wondering if I should pursue it. A friend informed me that I may not want big horsepower now but I may have the cash to do it in the future. It's not that I don't LOVE horsepower but just thinking economical if I want to drive it around a lot. I'd love to hear some advise from some pros.
Thanks
#2
Welcome! If the truck can be made roadworthy as equipped, I would suggest that first. Others who have changed out engines will comment on the hp choices that make sense. You likely know that changes under the hood will affect your equipment needs for brakes, drive shaft, tranny (maybe) and suspension (maybe). You have a pretty fundamental question that only you can answer. Knowing your truck well makes for better - and better informed - decisions.
And we need pics!
And we need pics!
#5
OK, I get it. That engine isn't going to move anytime soon. You'll be rebuilding brakes, fuel system, and electrical, at least. Ben in Austin has remarked a number of times his regret at putting too large an engine in his '50. I'm certain there are others who can't get enough hp - your truck, your call.
#6
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#8
FortyNiner: The plan was always to go through the entire truck as it was one ,of many, of my wife's grandpas "projects". If it takes me 10-15 years so be it. Truly looking forward to the learning how to rebuild a classic.
49fordv8f4: My wife's grandpa was a war veteran and maybe that's why that type of filter was used. My FIL doesn't remember him ever driving it though. Thanks for the info on the engine I will look into the engine serial # this spring when the snow clears.
Jmadsen: Not sure what type of engine was on that Kohler skid. I just know it was heavy and seized. We pulled out 60 cars/trucks from the bush last spring (7 of them ran) and had a big sale. A few gems but most were just worth the steel. I'm pretty sure the old man was smiling from above that weekend.
49fordv8f4: My wife's grandpa was a war veteran and maybe that's why that type of filter was used. My FIL doesn't remember him ever driving it though. Thanks for the info on the engine I will look into the engine serial # this spring when the snow clears.
Jmadsen: Not sure what type of engine was on that Kohler skid. I just know it was heavy and seized. We pulled out 60 cars/trucks from the bush last spring (7 of them ran) and had a big sale. A few gems but most were just worth the steel. I'm pretty sure the old man was smiling from above that weekend.
#9
My racing days are over so I would suggest something mild for a street truck. Small blocks with 300HP are enough for me anymore in a daily driver, all my big blocks stay under the bench now. Its nice not to have to get gas every time I drive something!
Unless this is a going to be a weekend only driver I would pass on that 427 or save it for another project. I cant believe I am saying that, I must be getting old!
Unless this is a going to be a weekend only driver I would pass on that 427 or save it for another project. I cant believe I am saying that, I must be getting old!
#10
That much motor (427) would require a laundry list of other changes/modifications (spelled $$$$$) and will pass anything but a gas station. My honest suggestion would to buy a complete, running late model car with a 4.6L Mod motor and od tranny. Pull the driveline and electronics out of it and put it in the F1. It will be inexpensive, dependable, fun to drive, won't require rebuilding, will get good gas mileage, parts are available at your closest big box auto parts store, and if you ever want more power it is easy to increase it to 600HP+ (higher than you could ever get out of the 427 without turning it into a full race engine) with relatively inexpensive bolt on parts, electronic tune, without ever taking the oil pan off.
#11
That much motor (427) would require a laundry list of other changes/modifications (spelled $$$$$) and will pass anything but a gas station. My honest suggestion would to buy a complete, running late model car with a 4.6L Mod motor and od tranny. Pull the driveline and electronics out of it and put it in the F1. It will be inexpensive, dependable, fun to drive, won't require rebuilding, will get good gas mileage, parts are available at your closest big box auto parts store, and if you ever want more power it is easy to increase it to 600HP+ (higher than you could ever get out of the 427 without turning it into a full race engine) with relatively inexpensive bolt on parts, electronic tune, without ever taking the oil pan off.
#13
Yep, starting with a $200 complete mustang GT engine and 14 psi boost on a home made turbo setup running race gas. A dyno run and long term reliability are two different things, you want to turn up the wick on stock pistons that is your gamble.
The idea of a FI engine is a good one IMO (it is all I run now, no more carbs) but while the HP potential is there you need to do a little more than slap a turbo on it if you want it reliable. We can agree to disagree on this one.
The idea of a FI engine is a good one IMO (it is all I run now, no more carbs) but while the HP potential is there you need to do a little more than slap a turbo on it if you want it reliable. We can agree to disagree on this one.
#14
Im with AX on this one. Get a newer style engine, harness and running components (ECU and other emissions controls) You can do a very easy straight forward swap and eliminate the extra components you dont need after the fabrication part.
If you could get your hands on a 90s SOHC 4.6, mods are cheap and plentiful. you will be around 300 brake horsepower with mild bolt ons. If you had more money up front, get a newer 4.6 SOHC 3 valve and do a tune/bolt ons and be closer to 350-375 but these are a little more difficult to get to work right due to the electronics. Also, Ford Racing did sell a standalone wiring kit to run the engine with the ECU and eleminate all the extra stuff but the downside was it was costly. You can go the other route and get a sweet carb'd engine that needs work and spend all that money in machine shop/new parts for the rebuild etc.
If you could get your hands on a 90s SOHC 4.6, mods are cheap and plentiful. you will be around 300 brake horsepower with mild bolt ons. If you had more money up front, get a newer 4.6 SOHC 3 valve and do a tune/bolt ons and be closer to 350-375 but these are a little more difficult to get to work right due to the electronics. Also, Ford Racing did sell a standalone wiring kit to run the engine with the ECU and eleminate all the extra stuff but the downside was it was costly. You can go the other route and get a sweet carb'd engine that needs work and spend all that money in machine shop/new parts for the rebuild etc.
#15
Hey Jungle,
Welcome Aboard! So.... Engine choice... Hmmm.. So I'll be honest we
have a carb'd 351W in our truck with an Edelbrock Top End Kit purchased through Summit Racing - 400 HP. We had an older 289 in the truck to start with ....
Personally I wish we had stayed with a more stock 289/302/351W. The small block Fords are fine for cruising & using the truck as a truck - which is what we do 95% of the time. A lot of horsepower does not give you a smooth driving machine - loud, shakes, jerks, shifts hard....
These are old trucks - not really great race cars. I'm not comfortable putting my foot into 400HP in a 60 year old truck. Anything over 70 mph is scary - I think through all the bolts holding it together. It's also expensive:
- 351W Shortblock $500.
- Edelbrock Top End Kit - $2000.
- Upgraded suspension to IFS & Disc Brakes - $2500.
- Upgraded AOD transmission internals - $1500.
- Swapped in an Explorer 8.8 rear end - $500.
- Upgraded the radiator & converted to electric fan - $700.
- Nice 650 CFM Edelbrock Carb - $400..
Not sure what MPG we get but I'm guessing it's around 12mpg. If we had stayed with the stock 289 - maybe 17 on the highway.
If you don't go EFI - any carbureted engine from the small block Ford family would fit great and have a lot of parts support. 289/302/351W.
Good luck over there - Have fun. In the end it's your choice - more power is sexy but maybe not the best choice - depends on what you want. If it's cruising around stay basic. If it's racing weekends - then go for it.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Welcome Aboard! So.... Engine choice... Hmmm.. So I'll be honest we
have a carb'd 351W in our truck with an Edelbrock Top End Kit purchased through Summit Racing - 400 HP. We had an older 289 in the truck to start with ....
Personally I wish we had stayed with a more stock 289/302/351W. The small block Fords are fine for cruising & using the truck as a truck - which is what we do 95% of the time. A lot of horsepower does not give you a smooth driving machine - loud, shakes, jerks, shifts hard....
These are old trucks - not really great race cars. I'm not comfortable putting my foot into 400HP in a 60 year old truck. Anything over 70 mph is scary - I think through all the bolts holding it together. It's also expensive:
- 351W Shortblock $500.
- Edelbrock Top End Kit - $2000.
- Upgraded suspension to IFS & Disc Brakes - $2500.
- Upgraded AOD transmission internals - $1500.
- Swapped in an Explorer 8.8 rear end - $500.
- Upgraded the radiator & converted to electric fan - $700.
- Nice 650 CFM Edelbrock Carb - $400..
Not sure what MPG we get but I'm guessing it's around 12mpg. If we had stayed with the stock 289 - maybe 17 on the highway.
If you don't go EFI - any carbureted engine from the small block Ford family would fit great and have a lot of parts support. 289/302/351W.
Good luck over there - Have fun. In the end it's your choice - more power is sexy but maybe not the best choice - depends on what you want. If it's cruising around stay basic. If it's racing weekends - then go for it.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1