911! front end out of wack
#31
01-09-2015, 06:39 PM
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Thanks but I'm not done... still need some winches - Dimon plate -author led bar rear facing. Some ground effects. Then she be close.
. The quarterpanels, them mcNeil racing fenders or you just stretched the inner support arms to give the "pre-run" look? me like.
#32
01-09-2015, 06:43 PM
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#35
01-10-2015, 11:20 AM
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#37
01-10-2015, 11:31 AM
#38
01-10-2015, 02:28 PM
#39
01-10-2015, 02:57 PM
I've never used a spring compressor on mine. The design of the front suspension allows you to just use a jack. The keeper for the top of the spring is just a little bolt with a 10mm head. The suspension holds it all in place up top. There's a single bolt in the bottom clamping it down. It's nothing like those springs with front struts.
Just be sure to remove one end of the shock or it will keep the spring from coming out. Jack up the suspension and put a jack stand under the frame. Remove a shock bolt and the little keeper on the top of the spring and then just let the suspension lower. The bolt will hold the spring in place and there won't be any bounce or jump from tension as it comes apart.
I'd plan on getting new bushings for the radius arm and front I beam for your replacement. You'll need a press to get the bushing out of, or into the radius arm. Don't use energy suspension bushings. They're way too noisy. (learned that the hard way).
Just be sure to remove one end of the shock or it will keep the spring from coming out. Jack up the suspension and put a jack stand under the frame. Remove a shock bolt and the little keeper on the top of the spring and then just let the suspension lower. The bolt will hold the spring in place and there won't be any bounce or jump from tension as it comes apart.
I'd plan on getting new bushings for the radius arm and front I beam for your replacement. You'll need a press to get the bushing out of, or into the radius arm. Don't use energy suspension bushings. They're way too noisy. (learned that the hard way).
I think the split is just dirty so it looks old. That tapered edge you see at the break is normal for tensile failure of steel. As it pulls apart it will stretch and reduce in area before it lets go. At least good steel does. So that's not a shear crack that opened up, it's a single tensile event, failing the way it is designed to fail.
By day I work in the lab of a steel foundry, we test our material like this all the time.
#40
01-10-2015, 03:15 PM
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Yea differently did it when I hit that pipe.... The truck never had a issue driving whise until this..... Tugly I believe it is just dirty.... The property out there is nothing more then one big mud hole..... I probably drove 2 or 3 miles around the property after this event happen..... on the way home the wheel wobble of death happened and I parked the truck.... The wobble was a scary thing....... never experienced that before. I appreciate everyone's help.
#41
01-10-2015, 07:45 PM
I had a 65 F250, first year of the I Beam, and it was almost exactly the same. Remove a hook from the top of each beam, then the front shocks, lift the chassis and watch the springs fall out. Great designs don't change much. I assumed the early forged radius beams went to stamped steel in the 70s due to cost, but this example also shows it limits the damage that can be caused with that kind of impact. Nice to have that one beam bend instead of the frame.
I've hit a few bumps along the way in my truck. I haven't bent a radius arm, but I did knock a wheel out of round. (fun trying to figure that one out since my centramatics were able to compensate and keep it from having any noticeable vibration)
#42
01-11-2015, 10:24 PM
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You're correct about it being stamped steel, but they're tough enough. It takes just the right kind of hit to damage them like this.
I've hit a few bumps along the way in my truck. I haven't bent a radius arm, but I did knock a wheel out of round. (fun trying to figure that one out since my centramatics were able to compensate and keep it from having any noticeable vibration)
I've hit a few bumps along the way in my truck. I haven't bent a radius arm, but I did knock a wheel out of round. (fun trying to figure that one out since my centramatics were able to compensate and keep it from having any noticeable vibration)
#43
01-12-2015, 10:16 AM
Postmaster
I had a 65 F250, first year of the I Beam, and it was almost exactly the same. Remove a hook from the top of each beam, then the front shocks, lift the chassis and watch the springs fall out. Great designs don't change much. I assumed the early forged radius beams went to stamped steel in the 70s due to cost, but this example also shows it limits the damage that can be caused with that kind of impact. Nice to have that one beam bend instead of the frame.
I think the split is just dirty so it looks old. That tapered edge you see at the break is normal for tensile failure of steel. As it pulls apart it will stretch and reduce in area before it lets go. At least good steel does. So that's not a shear crack that opened up, it's a single tensile event, failing the way it is designed to fail.
By day I work in the lab of a steel foundry, we test our material like this all the time.
I think the split is just dirty so it looks old. That tapered edge you see at the break is normal for tensile failure of steel. As it pulls apart it will stretch and reduce in area before it lets go. At least good steel does. So that's not a shear crack that opened up, it's a single tensile event, failing the way it is designed to fail.
By day I work in the lab of a steel foundry, we test our material like this all the time.
Working with Boron Steel - BodyShop Business
I use to work in the collision industry and had taken many classes on how they design parts on cars/ trucks to absorb the energy from impact. There is alot more put into the design of things then one might think. One of the semimars was on frame repair of Ford trucks back about '98 or '99 and Ford had said due to the design of the frame and the type of steel they used that when repairing a frame that you were NOT to use more then 600* or was it 900* of heat when straightening a frame. Because it would fatigue the steel and cause the frame to not absorb the energy the way it was designed. If these parts and frames didn't absorb energy more people would get hurt and the airbags would go off too early. Mind you Ford truck frames back then were NOT boron but they may be on the newer ones but I have no idea?/
Yea differently did it when I hit that pipe.... The truck never had a issue driving whise until this..... Tugly I believe it is just dirty.... The property out there is nothing more then one big mud hole..... I probably drove 2 or 3 miles around the property after this event happen..... on the way home the wheel wobble of death happened and I parked the truck.... The wobble was a scary thing....... never experienced that before. I appreciate everyone's help.
LOL
#44
01-12-2015, 05:54 PM
If he's still got the front critter catcher, aka honda bar, that would have protected things in the center too.
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