I have a preliminary assumption that it is time for a driver's side front wheel bearing. On my obs I put new taper bearings into the hub. Is that possible on a SD? Is there any reason to put new hubs on?

 

only the needle bearing on the shaft is replaceable,otherwise its the whole bearing,if your hubs are working stick with them,Guzzle(Bob from diesel o rings.com)has great write up on servicing them,what year truck is the bearing on?i was referring to the 99-03

 

2000
I'm not using proper terminology. I was not considering replacing the locking hub. I was wondering if I can just replace the cones and cups. Or if I have to replace the entire hub assembly.

 

the bearing is a sealed unit there is one small needle bearing that is on the back of the bearing where the unit slides on the axle.The originals are timken.Guzzle has a write up on needle bearing service that explains how to service those or to change the bearing.You should have front wheel abs and riffraff diesel makes a fitting to grease them through the abs sensor hole which helps longevity.

 

Before you tear too much apart, it might be an idea to remove the locking hub and tire, put at least one lug nut back on to hold the rotor, then spin the rotor. This may or may not point out a warped rotor. Inspect the inside rotor face. Stuck slide pins on the caliper are a common problem, wearing the inside rotor more rapidly than the outside - and this may be your culprit.

 

I don't think that mine is four wheel abs. If it is there should be 3 separate lines going to the hub assembly correct? (Brake line, vacuum line, and sensor line) is this correct or is there another way to know for sure.

 

WHAT THE HECK?!?! OVER $300 AT NAPA FOR A WHEEL BEARING? When I put wheel bearings on my obs it cost $30 dollars for timkin parts. This is ridiculous! !!!

 

Yeah, it's not just a bearing, i's a hub assembly. They are very proud of those things.

 

Ugh if they are so proud of them why don't they let you keep using them for the life of the truck

 

need more info on the truck,its 2000,but is it 4wd?electronic or manual transfer case?Im guessing electronicc and 4wd.The brake line goes to the caliper and there would be a black wire that goes into the bearing hub for the abs and the vacuum line on the knuckle behind the rotor.Did you jack the truck up and move the tire to be sure its the bearing?.If its rear only you can switch to the 4 wheel abs bearing(its cheaper by a hundred bucks i believe) but to do so you need the 4 wheel abs front rotor.Your current rotor wouldnt work.I switched mine which is rear abs tothe 4 wheel abs front bearings and rotors because the bearings are cheaper and riffraff diesel sells a fitting to put in the abs sensor hole on the bearing to grease it.I may still have a bearing for the rear abs style,I'll check and get back I know i have 2 cryo slotted rotors that would fit that dont fit mine any more,been meaning to fle bay them

 

go to dieselorings.com look under intsructions and Bob has great pics of all of it,and his has 4 wheel abs

 

MY 2000 doesn't have front ABS and I used the ABS hubs without changing the rotors. It was a direct fit. Just have to make sure you match the thread, i.e. course or fine.


Oh yeah, I hear ya on the sticker shock. This is the first vehicle I've owned with bearing unit hubs. Big difference in price.

 

hmm,how many freakin combinations did they actually have?I thought he would have to change the rotors,I guess measuring the rotors would be the sure way to tell.I know it gave parts guys fits around here when they looked them up.And I forgot about the coarse of fine thread studs,good point!

 

Ok truck info:
Electric 4x4 (more and more fed up with that give me a minute and I'll explain)
Sadly only rear abs
6-spd

More on the problem:
Jacked up the front and spun both wheels there is no play and I didn't hear any bearing noise.

There was a little nose from the brake on one side but it is constant for the whole rotation. In the process I am seeing from the tires that it really needs an alignment. Could that be causing the noise. I am going to switch the front tires and see if that helps

 

with the wheel up did you put a bar under it and see if there was any play when you pry upward?Did you grab the wheel at the 3 and 9 oclock position and try to push pull and feel for play?with the bar have someone pry while you watch at the bearing and the ball joints for any movement.And as tugly said check the slide pins sounds like they are hanging up,or rotor warped