1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Axle/Axle swap questions.

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  #16  
Old 01-04-2015, 08:46 AM
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Then I recommend getting a ZF6 for a 7.3. And adapter is going to be in the $800 range
 
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:17 PM
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Would that bolt straight in? Did the bellhousing change on the ZF? I thought the NBS powerstrokes just ran an adapter.
 
  #18  
Old 01-04-2015, 10:58 PM
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Sd zf6 bell is the same as obs. They all have the aluminum spacer plate.
 
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Old 01-04-2015, 11:26 PM
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My next question then, is what keeps the ZF from behind the 2005 6.0 from bolting up to my 7.3, if there was no change?
 
  #20  
Old 01-04-2015, 11:27 PM
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Or did they run different spacers/adapters?
 
  #21  
Old 01-05-2015, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by fordman67
Sd zf6 bell is the same as obs. They all have the aluminum spacer plate.
That is news to me. Mine have had Spacer but not an Adapter. SO NO a 6.0 zf6 will NOT bolt up to a 7.3
 
  #22  
Old 01-05-2015, 06:53 AM
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Correct.^

I was meaning 7.3 to 7.3 early vs late.
6.0 is very different.you should quit even considering that as an option.
Doing a zf6 is a challenge in a obs much less making it worse with the wrong trans to boot.
 
  #23  
Old 01-05-2015, 08:13 AM
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What these guys are saying is that a ZF6 from a 7.3 Super Duty truck will bolt right up to your engine. The issue is that the ZF6 you have is from a 6.0 truck (2005), and not a 7.3 truck (1999-2003). If you get the right ZF6 transmission (from a 2000-2003, because I don't think you could get a ZF6 in '99 truck) it will bolt right up to your engine, then you just have to deal with the structural issues to make it physically fit in the truck.
 
  #24  
Old 01-05-2015, 07:31 PM
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Thank you, DIYmechanic, that is actually quite helpful.
 
  #25  
Old 01-05-2015, 08:10 PM
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So if you are DEAD set on putting a ZF6 in, find a 99-03 that was behind a 7.3 and prepare to spend $2000+ just for the trans
 
  #26  
Old 01-05-2015, 10:02 PM
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I think it really is what I want to do. That said, I will look into finding one from a '99-'03 7.3. I know a guy that sells rebuilds, I'll give him a call, and see what pops up. The swap wouldn't be occurring until the summer at the earliest, which would give me time to get, and rebuild the D60, so I can do both at the same time.


Thanks for the advice on that, guys.


I have two other questions. One of which is probably kind of silly.


After I redid my UVCH I had a severe diesel leak. There's a little lever that's under the "decorative" hood that covers the ICP, Glow Plug relay, etc. Is it some sort of a bleeder valve that I could have nudged when I was pulling the cover off? Not quite sure what to think of this. Pushed the lever back, and I think the leak has stopped. Any guesses?


Next question-


During the tear-down to get the new gaskets in, I pulled what I assume is some sort of breather, it was black, plastic, and on top of the Valve Cover on the drivers side. It had a bunch of white, kinda milky gunk in it. I believe that is an indicator of a coolant leak, and/or a whole lot of blow-by? Can anyone confirm/deny that for me?
 
  #27  
Old 01-06-2015, 08:55 AM
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The little yellow lever you're describing is the drain valve for the fuel filter housing. Sounds like it is working!!

The breather you're talking about is the CCV (Crank Case Vent). A little milky oil in the CCV isn't an indicator of much unless you're also losing coolant. Some condensation can occur there just because of differences in temperature and other reasons. Keep an eye on the coolant level in the degas bottle. If you're not losing coolant, I wouldn't get too upset.
 
  #28  
Old 01-06-2015, 09:34 PM
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That's good. I was a little bit concerned about the crud in there. Thank you again for all of the help here.
 
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