1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

GrifN's 1955 F100 Build

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Old 12-31-2014, 09:41 AM
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GrifN's 1955 F100 Build

I've always been into cars, but the '53-'56 F100s have always held a special place in my heart. Unfortunately, with my limited finances, I have to choose between "decent body and not running" or "running rust bucket". I can fix a motor, but I can't do body work; that's an art I just don't have. So when a '53 F100 with some hodge-podge flatbed and minimal rust came across my radar, I had to jump on it. I had to sell my previous project/toy (a 1994 Mazda Miata) to afford the purchase.

The advertisement (quoted below) was a bit hard to figure out what I was getting quality-wise (namely because it was a massive list of parts "worth over $8,000 retail" and... I had/have no idea if they are good/bad/otherwise). But he says it's a running Ford 400M motor (I strongly doubt it runs) and a C6 transmission. I talked the guy down to $3,200 and he would deliver it (as the motor and transmission were out of the truck).

I have a 1953 Ford F100 sold under bill of sale. I am too busy working on my son's Barracuda 16th b-day project. This is a very good deal for someone that is into 50's era F100 and knows what the parts are worth. I have $8,000 in parts alone of which most are brand new new. It comes with a Ford 400 motor, C-6 Trans and 9" Bullet Proof rear end. has disk brakes on the back and front disk brakes is part of the list of parts listed below. All of these items were gathered for a complete and thourough restoration. There is litterally everything there, plus doubles in some cases, to have a 100% restored truck.

*** There is only rust in one spot and it IS NOT BAD... its along the drip rail and it is NOT eaten through.

The original hood and fenders are with the car and also option of fiberglass replacement parts... It all comes with the truck.

I am also open to trading... would prefer and older running muscle car from 50's to 80's...

Seriously... Look over this list...

Type Qty Item Part # Reciept Price Date
Elect 1 Mid Fifty - misc light / tail light, crome trim $320 $320.00
Elect 1 Mid Fifty - Back tail Light Lens 2211 $18.00 $18.00
Latch 1 Mid Fifty - Bag of small latches $22.00 $22.00
Bed 1 Mid Fifty - Bed Insulators 0.214 $8.00 $8.00
Bed 2 Mid Fifty - Bed Stake Pocket Rounded Extension 0.229 $30.00 $60.00
Hose 1 Mid Fifty - Brass Hose bibb $5.00 $5.00
Choke 1 Mid Fifty - Choke Cable with "Choke" Bezel 1035 $7.00 $7.00
Choke 1 Mid Fifty - Choke/Throttle/Heater Cable Gromme 1618-G $1.50 $1.50
Screws 1 Mid Fifty - Custom Support Screw Set 80260-8 $1.95 $1.95
Dash 1 Mid Fifty - Dash Cluster Frame Chrome 2610-5355 $107.50 $107.50
Dome * 1 Mid Fifty - Dome Light Bulb 2269 $1.50 $1.50
Dome * 1 Mid Fifty - Dome Light Lens 2251 $7.00 $7.00
Frnt Bump 1 Mid Fifty - Front Bumber Bolt Set 80600-PB $9.00 $9.00
Fender 1 Mid Fifty - Front Fender & Valance Top Bolts 87050 $22.00 $22.00
Gas 1 Mid Fifty - Gas Tube to Body Boot 1606-5355 $15.00 $15.00
Emblem 1 Mid Fifty - Grille Emblem 1205-53 $47.50 $47.50
Grille 1 Mid Fifty - Grille Support Bolt Kit 81210-53 $2.00 $2.00
Head Lt 1 Mid Fifty - Headlight Bracket to Grill Kit 82230 $4.50 $4.50
Head Lt 1 Mid Fifty - Headlight bucket gasket 2239 $3.00 $3.00
Head Lt 1 Mid Fifty - Headlight Door Ring Screws 82237-5355 $0.75 $0.75
Seal 1 Mid Fifty - Hood to Radiator Seal 2306 $6.00 $6.00
Rear 2 Mid Fifty - Rear Spring Seat Pad 2884-3 $10.00 $20.00
Mirror 2 Mid Fifty - Right and Left side Side Mirrors 1150-5355 $48.50 $97.00
Rn Board 1 Mid Fifty - Running Board / Rear Fender 80313 $6.50 $6.50
Emblem 1 Mid Fifty - Side Hood Emblem Clips 81202-5354 $2.50 $2.50
Dash 1 Mid Fifty - Small fiberglass part, looks like for dash $12.00 $12.00
Bed 1 Mid Fifty - tailgate Chain Latch Bumpers 0.253 $3.00 $3.00
Tail Gt 1 Mid Fifty - Tailgate Hinge 0.257-PS $39.95 $39.95
Tail Lt 1 Mid Fifty - Taillight & Gate Hinge Bolts 80243-PB $12.50 $12.50
Hardware 1 Mid Fifty Center Hood Latch Hardware 82017-PB $9.50 $9.50
Hardware 1 Mid Fifty center hood Latch Spring 201B $1.00 $1.00
Hardware 1 Mid Fifty Chrome Hood latch 2017-CH $42.50 $42.50
Dome * 1 Mid Fifty Dome Light Frame 2250-OH $28.50 $28.50
Hardware 1 Mid Fifty pad to Pad Block Bolts 84422 $5.00 $5.00
Hardware 1 Mid Fifty pad/tube mount bolts 84419 $4.90 $4.90
Tool 1 Mid Fifty Switch Removal Tool 80100 $6.50 $6.50
Weather 1 Mid Fifty weather stripping - # & Desc is missing $55.00 $55.00
Hardware 1 Mid Fifty X Member mount to frame 84438 $8.50 $8.50
Trim 1 Mid Fifty - Hood to Rad Seal Hang Channel 2309 $6.00 $6.00

1 Grant installation kit for custom steering wheels 3196 $20.00 $20.00
Brakes 1 10, to 12, of coiled brake line $65.00 $65.00
Fan 2 2 different fans for rdadiator cooling $145.00 $290.00
Distr Cap 3 2) resistors and 1) point $12.00 $36.00
Bed 2 2) tubes from Mar-K Specialized MFG X $78.00 $156.00
cool 1 A/C Condersor coil $115.00 $115.00
A/C 1 A/C Pump $286.00 $286.00
Fuel 1 Airtext Fuel pump, hanger and sending unit ES218S $44.00 $44.00
Fly wheel 1 ARP - Flex plate bolt kit package of 6 200-2902 $12.99 $12.99
Lights 2 Bag of 2 Original clear bullet lites - Rear? $35.00 $70.00
Bushing 1 Bag of bushngs, looks like for suspension Blue $18.00 $18.00
Weather 1 Bag of weather stripping $15.00 $15.00
Battery 1 Battery pad to set under batt $3.00 $3.00
Fuel 1 BG Fuel pressure guage - #15 170124 $56.00 $56.00
PCV 1 Billet Aluminum PCV valve polished 22120 $26.89 $26.89
Distr Cap 1 Borg Warner - Condenser G120P $110.00 $110.00
Distr Cap 1 Borg Warner - Contact Set A120P $13.00 $13.00
Elect 1 Borg Warner Ignition Coil E31 $26.00 $26.00
Steer 1 Borgenson Steering U Joint U15N-11/16-36R $71.95 $71.95
Trim 1 Box new chrome trim pieces $78.00 $78.00
Chrome 1 Box with blank & Ford hub caps, light bezels $50.00 $50.00
Carb parts 1 Bucket of various carb parts $-
Elect 1 Cheap tachometer none $19.00 $19.00
Steer 1 Chevy title wheel $34.00 $34.00
Chrome 5 Chrome pieces - Maybe for Grill? $200.00 $1,000.00
Engine 1 Competition Cams 1192-1 $34.00 $34.00
Brakes 1 Complete master cylinder $130.00 $130.00
Dash 1 Dash or firewall panel $188.00 $188.00
Elect 2 Delco-Remy Quick Start rebuid kit $34.00 $68.00
Dia Plate 1 Diamond plate that is bent in L shape like for step $122.00 $122.00
Fuel 1 Double pump Holly carburator $300.00 $300.00
Exaust 1 Exhaust U bolt $2.00 $2.00
Bolts 1 Ford 400 Bolts to Trans Bell H. - Small wht box $4.00 $4.00
Emblem 2 Ford F-100 new chrome side emblems $44.00 $88.00
Elect 1 Ford motorcraft door switch D8TZ-15520-A X $10.50 $10.50
Hardware 1 Ford striker door latch E9AZ-5422008-A $32.00 $32.00
Body 1 Grill $229.00 $229.00
Bed 1 Group of 8) gray paint pieces - looks like OG bed $2.00 $2.00
Motor 1 Heater Blower Motor 126 820 05 42 $109.00 $109.00
Elect 1 High Beam Switch $22.00 $22.00
Weather 1 Hood / Cowl weather stripping $12.00 $12.00
Hood 2 Hood Hinges - in Fed-X box $33.00 $66.00
Hood 2 Hood right & left side hinge $33.00 $66.00
Horn 1 John's F-Fun Hundreds - Horn Contact 48-60 $4.80 $4.80
Fuel 1 K & N air force foam pre-cleaner 25-3900 $24.00 $24.00
Shifter 1 Lokar Shifter, brdackets and a Kick Down Bracket $286.00 $286.00
Carb 1 Lokar Throttle Cable - New $15.00 $15.00
SS Plate 1 longer more rectangular is size $33.00 $33.00
Bracket 1 Maybe a alternator engine bracket $134.00 $134.00
Tail Lt 2 Maybe tail lite brackets - Off white in color $33.00 $66.00
Elect 1 Misc push switch $8.00 $8.00
Fuel 1 Moroso Holley Sight Plug 65226 $4.99 $4.99
Elect 1 Moroso super max correct a cap 72250 $15.00 $15.00
Mtr Mount 1 Motor Mount $56.00 $56.00
Filter 1 Napa Air Filter for Ford Truck 6255 $10.58 $10.58
Brake 1 Napa Brake System Bolt 82279 $2.00 $2.00
Elect 1 Napa Mileage Plus spark plug wire set 780061 $39.00 $39.00
Spindal 1 New - Box with one Mustang spindal $60.00 $60.00
Vent 1 New air conditioner looking vent $26.00 $26.00
Toggle 1 Niehoff - Toggle Switch UN-141A $3.00 $3.00
Suspen 1 No Limit Engineering front sway bar kit for F-100's $181.00 $181.00
Emblem 2 OG F100 Side emblems $27.00 $54.00
Head Lamps 2 OG Head Lamp assembly $49.00 $98.00
Ignition 1 OG Ignition Switch w/Key $30.00 $30.00
Tail Lt 1 OG tail light with shine down for lic plates $22.00 $22.00
Visor 3 OG Visor - one side 2 bar only, other bar & visor $33.00 $99.00
Cap 1 Oil Filler Cap Chrome $11.00 $11.00
Guage 1 Oil Pressure Guage $27.00 $27.00
Engine 1 Old bolts for Ford 400 bolts to trans $2.00 $2.00
Lic Plate 1 Old style Mass lic plate $- $-
Air Filt 1 Original Ford Air Cleaner $20.00 $20.00
Elect 1 Perfect Performance 12 circuit fuse panel 30001 $133.00 $133.00
Chrome 1 5 Pieces of loose new chrome $222.00 $222.00
Cool 1 Plastic vent tube with electronics - Used $66.00 $66.00
Pulley 1 Pulley and bracket - looks original $121.00 $121.00
cool 1 Radiator $136.00 $136.00
Bed 1 Roll of stripping for wood slats? $129.00 $129.00
Rotors 2 Rotors for a Lincoln $85.00 $170.00
Seal 2 Seal It - Seals for Rod Ends $22.00 $44.00
Fan 1 Spacer for radiator fan $5.00 $5.00
Inst Panel 1 Speedo face plate $70.00 $70.00
Steer 1 Steering rod $136.00 $136.00
Fuel 1 Studs for Carb to manifold 6310 $12.00 $12.00
Rotors 2 Summit Racing Equip $121.00 $242.00
Sway Bar 1 Sway Bar - New $186.00 $186.00
Elect 1 Tachometer C872149 $34.00 $34.00
Tr Iron 1 Tire Iron $1.00 $1.00
Trans 2 Transmission support bracket $55.00 $110.00
Arm rest 1 Two tone arm rest - other one is inside truck $30.00 $30.00
Mtr Mount 3 Used motor mount $25.00 $75.00
Trans 1 Used torque converter $22.00 $22.00
Emblem 1 V8 Front emblem - may be original - used $20.00 $20.00
Vacum 1 Vacum Cannister $14.00 $14.00
Sensor 1 VDO - looks like a temp sending unit $8.00 $8.00
Sensor 1 VDO pressure sensor up to 80 psi 360 003 $22.95 $22.95
Mtr Mount 2 Windsor Motor Mounts $42.00 $84.00
Elect 1 Wiring harness $165.00 $165.00

Parts included $8,719.70
After some back in forth and scheduling conflicts, the truck finally showed up, as promised, in a giant pile of parts (flatbed not shown).





The first to-do was do go through the parts that have just arrived. Well, work got crazy, and that didn't happen. Then winter hits, and it gets dark at 5pm in Atlanta, so we go backwards from step one to step... zero? Whatever. Install lighting! I couldn't see squat in my garage. So I went from 2 single-bulb CFL fixtures (which took a good 10 minutes to get to full brightness) for the entire garage to six 2-bulb 48" fluorescent fixtures.



Finally, I can see!! And, oh god, I can see what a mess this truly is.





So it's time to make some room Beverly Hillbillies style, so I level out the flatbed with some 4x4 posts, drop some OSB decking in the bed to make a platform, and start stacking. Now I'm getting some room to work!!





So that's how she sits for now. I've got her bed loaded up with a bench seat, a radiator, a front grille, a "spare" (rusted trash?) gas tank, 2 steel front fenders, 2 steel rear fenders (which I obviously have no use for with the flatbed), 2 fiberglass rear fenders (also useless to me), 1 steel hood, and 1 fiberglass hood. Woo!

Up next is sifting through my boxes of parts, then taking the motor to a machine shop to get it cleaned and inspected -- there's no sense in even thinking about rebuilding/rodding a busted motor that has limited aftermarket support to begin with.
 
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:56 AM
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Wow, looks like you're in deep! Fun project though. I'd agree that the 400M is not the greatest candidate for....... well anything I guess. But if it's ingood shape it's a motor that will push your truck along just fine, and should last too. The C6 is pretty tried and true. If you decide to keep the combo I'd start on mocking that up first and get with folks on here that have done the same so you know what kind of fabrication you're looking at. Then figure out if you want a steel original style box to go with all those fenders. That way you can make some room if you sell the finders. Don't make too much room though because you might just forget about it all together. My advise would be to start the build in your living room, that'll keep you motivated! Enjoy, and welcome!
 
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Old 12-31-2014, 10:13 AM
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Welcome! Looks like a true basket case. Hard to tell what you all have with some of the generic part descriptions from the PO (previous owner). Organizing and sorting out your collection will tell you lots.

Enjoy the ride.
 
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:00 AM
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First things first -- did you get a real title for it? The first thing the seller says was "bill of sale"...
 
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by sere0501
Wow, looks like you're in deep! Fun project though. I'd agree that the 400M is not the greatest candidate for....... well anything I guess. But if it's ingood shape it's a motor that will push your truck along just fine, and should last too. The C6 is pretty tried and true. If you decide to keep the combo I'd start on mocking that up first and get with folks on here that have done the same so you know what kind of fabrication you're looking at. Then figure out if you want a steel original style box to go with all those fenders. That way you can make some room if you sell the finders. Don't make too much room though because you might just forget about it all together. My advise would be to start the build in your living room, that'll keep you motivated! Enjoy, and welcome!
I've heard mixed reviews. Most people say "meh, it's just an awkward motor" or "it's a truck motor, not a hot rod motor", and it's recommended that I scrap it and go with something else (like a 351C or W, if I want to stay with a Ford motor). Then there are a few people that think the 400M has potential, and there are rebuild kits for them. They aren't used in a lot of projects (probably for good reason), but that makes it all the more unique, right? Honestly, I haven't made up my mind on the engine. The guy I bought it from said the PO had a seriously built engine, but didn't want to sell it, so he threw in the 400M just to say "it has a motor". I'm not opposed to scrapping it, if that's going to be the best route for me; I just need to give it a fair shake. The C6 will definitely be kept.

Originally Posted by FortyNiner
Welcome! Looks like a true basket case. Hard to tell what you all have with some of the generic part descriptions from the PO (previous owner). Organizing and sorting out your collection will tell you lots.

Enjoy the ride.
Already started the "organizing and sorting" adventure. Bought some rolling shelves (theoretically, heavy duty ones) and have started cataloging it all to keep track of it. That in itself is some seriously painstaking work.

Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
First things first -- did you get a real title for it? The first thing the seller says was "bill of sale"...
I contacted the Georgia DMV to find out about that. Anything this old just requires an inspection by the police (to verify it's not stolen), registration (for which it needs to be running), and a bill of sale. They said something along the lines of titles not being available for vehicles this old. Who knows. I have the guy's driver's license, his address, and his company and contact info (he owns his own business), so I can track him down if need be. I also saved all communication with the guy (including the Craigslist ad, as seen above).
 
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Old 12-31-2014, 04:23 PM
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You may want to contact your local police and give them the VIN now, before you do a ton of work to it. Maybe just have them do a check to make it isn't stolen now so there's no surprises later...
 
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:06 PM
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Yeah, that's what I've been thinking. Need to figure out how to place a non-emergency call to them. I know, I know -- "google it". Speaking of, where are the VINs located? Firewall? Anything on the frame? I'd be interested in knowing if this is even the original frame, because after stacking my parts in the flatbed, it didn't look like there were any good bolting points for the bed to the frame...
 
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by GrifN
Yeah, that's what I've been thinking. Need to figure out how to place a non-emergency call to them. I know, I know -- "google it". Speaking of, where are the VINs located? Firewall? Anything on the frame? I'd be interested in knowing if this is even the original frame, because after stacking my parts in the flatbed, it didn't look like there were any good bolting points for the bed to the frame...
Check the glovebox, that should have a data plate on it with the number. (They technically aren't a VIN, but are much shorter, as you probably already know.) However, the data plate number isn't always considered enough, so check the crossmember right next to the radiator saddle area on the passenger side. I don't have a picture of the actual location, but see if you can find it with that information.
 
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:36 PM
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Thanks! My glovebox is... um... well it's in pieces. I think the door is laying on the floor, and the "box" was just a sagging cardboard-esque thing that was hanging on by a thread, so I may or may not have (but definitely did) rip it off and throw it out.
 
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:39 PM
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The data plate is on the glove box door, not in the box. Sorry if I didn't make that clear.
 
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:53 AM
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Well, maybe it was on the door... I looked last night. The only thing on the door was some oil weight sticker guide thing. I also searched the frame last night (and have been perusing the forums) for where it would be located. So far, I've seen "passenger side frame rail, around the shock mount" and "on the radiator crossmember area". I didn't see anything there last night, but I'm learning that a wire brush may be necessary, as it looks like the frame was re-painted (thick paint) and these things aren't very deep to begin with... If you have any other suggestions, throw them out there. I'm here at work, freaking out, because I'm worried I may have bought a stolen truck (not likely, but I'm a worrier).
 
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Old 01-08-2015, 01:36 PM
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I have seen the vin # in several places, on the front radiator support crossmember center and passenger side top. The most common in my cases have been top of frame passenger side just in front of the cab mount. I use a wire wheel on a 1/4 air die grinder. This # is also found on the identification plate on the inside side of the glovebox door
 
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Old 01-09-2015, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by gerrymoe
I have seen the vin # in several places, on the front radiator support crossmember center and passenger side top. The most common in my cases have been top of frame passenger side just in front of the cab mount. I use a wire wheel on a 1/4 air die grinder. This # is also found on the identification plate on the inside side of the glovebox door
UPDATE: I found the VIN. The glove box was the first place I checked, but the VIN tag was long gone (plus, I don't think the DMV/police would consider this official enough for registration purposes). I had my doubts about it being on the passenger rail in front of the cab mount, so I (being the bull-headed person I am) checked about 4 or 5 other locations first. I noticed that a lot of people with a '53 F100 were posting about the radiator crossmember, so I searched that thing up and down first. Lo and behold, it was exactly where you mention -- passenger rail, 6-8" forward of the cab mount, just in front of the bolt for the transmission mount/brace. Unfortunately, I couldn't read it as-is, so I tried cleaning up paint and only made it worse. So I've gathers the materials I need to properly strip the paint (Klean Strip aircraft stripper, gloves, chem goggles, natural bristle paint brushes, wire brush, etc), and I'll strip the paint this weekend.
 
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Old 01-09-2015, 01:44 PM
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I have registered two trucks one a 1954 panel and a 1956 F250 , here in Stephens County Ga. Both times the Sheriffs department sent a deputy out to my shop , To check the vin . Both times they only looked at the data plate . After running a check on the vin , I was given a form for DMV . That , proof of insurance and a bill of sale and I was on the road . The F250 I had checked when I brought it home , then a year later [10/10/14 ] I went to DMV to register it . Very easy .
 
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Old 01-09-2015, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DR Smith
I have registered two trucks one a 1954 panel and a 1956 F250 , here in Stephens County Ga. Both times the Sheriffs department sent a deputy out to my shop , To check the vin . Both times they only looked at the data plate . After running a check on the vin , I was given a form for DMV . That , proof of insurance and a bill of sale and I was on the road . The F250 I had checked when I brought it home , then a year later [10/10/14 ] I went to DMV to register it . Very easy .
Excellent information. Thank you! My data plate is long gone, so finding the VIN stamped on the frame is key for me. Otherwise, I suspect a lot more paperwork is in store for me. I'll be making a plate for the glove box (something homemade, just for convenience) once I can read my VIN on the frame. Any idea how long the form the LEO gave you is good for? I suspect I won't be on the road any time soon, so I see no reason to register (and thus pay taxes on) my truck yet.
 

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